Secondary edge?

C

collioure

Joined
Jan 25, 2011
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As per my earlier thread I’ve been sharpening my globals on the WEPS...I’ve managed to get a fantastic edge. I can judge how sharp the edge is by running my nail over the edge and doing the same to a razor blade.
One thing, when I finish sharpening I test it out on a bit of paper a few times...then I run my nail over it again and it does not seem as sharp. Therefore I would assume the 15 degree edge may need a secondary edge to make it more durable.....is my assumption correct here...and if so whats the best method to create the secondary bevel.....would I do it with leather strops or start with the 1600 ceramic......what angle would I put the secondary bevel at if the primary is 15
 
You should be able to cut paper for hours before noticing any loss of edge sharpness.
 
Two concepts I suspect at play here.

You are discussing a micro bevel. They generally work well and can be formed many ways and with many sharpening tools.

The other concept I fear you may be dealing with is a wire edge. Sounds like you are getting the knife very sharp, but the edge degrades very quickly and without much work...basically the knee-jerk reaction is to assume a burr that was not adequately removed during sharpening (aka wire edge). The good news is, you are really close to being where you want to be (regarding sharpening).

Putting on a micro bevel is one way that many remove a wire edge/burr.

Good luck.
 
Try stropping the knife on your pants after you cut paper. If paper dust/debris is sticking to your edge, that might cause it to slip the next time you try the fingernail test.
 
I'm with the unit on this and also suspect a wire edge.You can also raise the sharpening angle a couple degrees and make a few really light passes on each side,I like ceramics for this.It works for me on wire edge removal.
 
As others have said, I'd bet it's a wire edge. Whether you decide to microbevel the edge or not, is up to you. Once the wire edge is removed, and assuming the edge remaining is fully apexed & sharp, the blade should cut paper effortlessly for a good, long while (microbevel or not). And the fingernail test should continue to pass with flying colors. I also like to use a ceramic hone to remove these. Being that your wire edge is evidently pretty fine (cutting paper bends it), you might also have success in using a piece of hardwood to remove it. I've used the corners of my oak strop block for this. A light draw cut into the wood (cross-grain), along the full length of the edge, will often take care of it. Then strop the edge & test it again on the paper. When you can make repeated, smooth cuts through the paper, without any slipping/snagging, you can be fairly confident the wire edge is taken care of.
 
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