Secure ex mod

H

Hermit_Knight

Joined
Mar 19, 2018
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448
Hey all I just got a Taiwan made magnum tanto 2 san mai and it is very sharp and came packed in a cardboard sleeve, now I don’t really want to put it in the secure ex cause it will dull it, are there any little mods or tricks to help the secure ex sheath not touch/dull the blade? I’m pretty sure it’s been mentioned before I just can’t find it. Cheers!
 
Such a beautiful knife deserves leather not plastic, I would pay CS extra to get it with one. My next San Mai will share sheaths with the Japanese ones. I do remember something about pieces of leather or something else slid in there but I did not get a warm fuzzy feeling for this. My SecureEx Sheaths are all in a pile in a box, I only do leather.
So fit and finish up to the Japanese Versions?
 
May I ask where is the balance point on the Magnum Tanto II? Thanks.
 
nephron said:
Such a beautiful knife deserves leather not plastic, I would pay CS extra to get it with one. My next San Mai will share sheaths with the Japanese ones. I do remember something about pieces of leather or something else slid in there but I did not get a warm fuzzy feeling for this. My SecureEx Sheaths are all in a pile in a box, I only do leather.
So fit and finish up to the Japanese Versions?
Click to expand...
That’s a good idea I’ll ask for a leather one from CS. The fit and finish is excellent I had a bad tai pan from the first batch made but they replaced it and the new one is perfect I also have the magnum 2 and the recon tanto san mai all have perfect grind lines ect I think I’ll try the magnum 12 next knife.
 
Send it out for leather/kydex.

Too nice of a knife to have a bad sheath.
 
I called Cold Steel to order some leather sheaths but they are out of production and not coming back. Seems like yesterday(probably a few years though)I could buy a leather replacement for most knives that came with it originally. I remember last time I bought some I saw the exact same sheath(s) for sale on Ebay asking twice what I paid at the same time directly from CS.
 
Hermit_Knight said:
are there any little mods or tricks to help the secure ex sheath not touch/dull the blade? I’m pretty sure it’s been mentioned before I just can’t find it. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Yes.
I couldn't find my own post here so I have to re do it in your thread. It was probably from the PhotoBucket days so I'm not sure the photos would be there anyway.
I used 1/8 inch neoprene with adhesive on one side. That is the white paper side you see with the bar code and the curved white object. The little SAK Mini Champ knife came in handy for cutting the curve in the neoprene.
IMG_4327.jpg
IMG_4332.jpg
IMG_5322.jpg

I can't say it was entirely successful. At first I was going to use some soft, thick plastic and that might be less abrasive than this neoprene. The danged edge is such a wide angle and the knife is so thick behind the edge that it is bound to loose it's edge fast anyway. It's a fun knife to fool around with and to just own even if I don't use it much. I call it my James Bond Knife.

Anyway I drilled out the rivets and sandwiched this strip of neoprene in between the layers. I used screws with nuts on them to replace the rivets. Classy huh ? I'm joking of course.
One day I may put in some soft plastic and then put in hollow rivets just like it came with.

By the way the only way to keep the rivet from turing while drilling it out is to dig a drill bit into the back side of the rivet as shown here. I just turned the drill chuck with my hand (I didn't turn on the drill press). I left the drill press drive belt in the photo to remind people not to try to turn the drill press on.
IMG_4331.jpg
Ultimately the way to go is with a soft plastic bonded to the secureex all the way out to and including the opening of the sheath.
I would be curious to know if there are any sheaths designed so the edge is held suspended away from any contact with the sheath. That would be best; like a folding knife is. The blade is in the handle but the blade doesn't contact the handle except at the pivot.
 

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Wowbagger said:
Yes.
I couldn't find my own post here so I have to re do it in your thread. It was probably from the PhotoBucket days so I'm not sure the photos would be there anyway.
I used 1/8 inch neoprene with adhesive on one side. That is the white paper side you see with the bar code and the curved white object. The little SAK Mini Champ knife came in handy for cutting the curve in the neoprene.
View attachment 952723
View attachment 952724
View attachment 952728

I can't say it was entirely successful. At first I was going to use some soft, thick plastic and that might be less abrasive than this neoprene. The danged edge is such a wide angle and the knife is so thick behind the edge that it is bound to loose it's edge fast anyway. It's a fun knife to fool around with and to just own even if I don't use it much. I call it my James Bond Knife.

Anyway I drilled out the rivets and sandwiched this strip of neoprene in between the layers. I used screws with nuts on them to replace the rivets. Classy huh ? I'm joking of course.
One day I may put in some soft plastic and then put in hollow rivets just like it came with.

By the way the only way to keep the rivet from turing while drilling it out is to dig a drill bit into the back side of the rivet as shown here. I just turned the drill chuck with my hand (I didn't turn on the drill press). I left the drill press drive belt in the photo to remind people not to try to turn the drill press on.
View attachment 952731
Ultimately the way to go is with a soft plastic bonded to the secureex all the way out to and including the opening of the sheath.
I would be curious to know if there are any sheaths designed so the edge is held suspended away from any contact with the sheath. That would be best; like a folding knife is. The blade is in the handle but the blade doesn't contact the handle except at the pivot.
Click to expand...
Thanks man that’s the sort of thing I’m going to try out.
 
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