So, I own several CS fixeds: Cold Steel Outdoorsman, Recon Tanto, Kyoto II fixed blade. Most of them have Secure-Ex plastic sheath. And I am always concerned with that sheath dulling the blade. What is your experience, do you think the sheath is affecting the blade? Otherwise I am really careful when getting the knife from the sheath. Or should I order a kydex sheath, there are on ebay for Outdoorsman, for example.
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Secure Ex sheath and blade sharpness
- Thread starter augostos
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soc_monki
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I have an SRK, if the sheath dulls the blade I haven't noticed. Haven't felt the need to replace the sheath. Pete over at Cedric and Ada did a test and concluded that the sheath does dull the blade, but it happens over time. It's not a big deal to me honestly. My BK2 sheath dulls that blade a lot faster, although it is not as bad as it was new. Guess it broke in a bit. Kydex is a definite step up though! Most of my blades have gotten a kydex sheath, recently ordered one for my new Benchmade Saddle Mountain Skinner since the stock Benchmade sheath is a real POS, even worse htan Secure-Ex! LOL
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from my experience with over a dozen models.........depends on which knife and which sheath and how ya put knife in and take out.
I'll explain. they use same sheath for San mai and other steel models of same knife. ill pick on my experience with the master hunter model in 3v and san mai. my san mai is very slightly thicker stock and slightly thicker handle dimensions. im talking very small amounts, than my 3v, and fits poorly in its sheath. I've tired both in each sheaths and 3v fits fine in both and goes in easier and comes out easier. San mai sticks side to side in both and goes in harder and comes out much harder.
this isn't always true as I've seen same knives same steel in different sheaths......dont fit the same. sometimes the specs on the sheath are within tolerance but different sizes a bit. that could also be slightly different tolerances of blades and handles itself even in same steel.
then compare to sharpened width, spine to edge, of knife blade. some a bit wider some a bit shorter talking very sample differences and within tolerances. that also has an effect.
also I only pull out with spine against sheath so I try to miss the edge from touching the sheath at all. course some are so tight it makes doing that and being more careful much harder. having to bend the edge of sheath open to release it etc.
some knives and sheaths easier than others. when I replace the knife I am ultra careful due to edge touching but also.....as if you even hit the side of the sheath inside with the point it can create a curled up piece of plastic and then it will scratch the living crap out of the side of your knife. very noticeable on a coated blade.
some secure ex i have are piece of cake and no issues. i expect folks who have non-issues have these. as if i only had that type id scratch my head and wonder what everyone complaining, is talking about. some are a major pain in the rear to use and then everything in between
in the end it makes it a sheath I dont care for. harder to use due to being careful and not great for the knives edge and finish. prefer a leather or even a nylon or Cordura sheath myself.
I'll explain. they use same sheath for San mai and other steel models of same knife. ill pick on my experience with the master hunter model in 3v and san mai. my san mai is very slightly thicker stock and slightly thicker handle dimensions. im talking very small amounts, than my 3v, and fits poorly in its sheath. I've tired both in each sheaths and 3v fits fine in both and goes in easier and comes out easier. San mai sticks side to side in both and goes in harder and comes out much harder.
this isn't always true as I've seen same knives same steel in different sheaths......dont fit the same. sometimes the specs on the sheath are within tolerance but different sizes a bit. that could also be slightly different tolerances of blades and handles itself even in same steel.
then compare to sharpened width, spine to edge, of knife blade. some a bit wider some a bit shorter talking very sample differences and within tolerances. that also has an effect.
also I only pull out with spine against sheath so I try to miss the edge from touching the sheath at all. course some are so tight it makes doing that and being more careful much harder. having to bend the edge of sheath open to release it etc.
some knives and sheaths easier than others. when I replace the knife I am ultra careful due to edge touching but also.....as if you even hit the side of the sheath inside with the point it can create a curled up piece of plastic and then it will scratch the living crap out of the side of your knife. very noticeable on a coated blade.
some secure ex i have are piece of cake and no issues. i expect folks who have non-issues have these. as if i only had that type id scratch my head and wonder what everyone complaining, is talking about. some are a major pain in the rear to use and then everything in between
in the end it makes it a sheath I dont care for. harder to use due to being careful and not great for the knives edge and finish. prefer a leather or even a nylon or Cordura sheath myself.
I have a couple Cold Steel sheath knives with the secure ex sheath. My latest one is the Warcraft Tanto. It came with the secure ex sheath that was so tight I could barely draw the knife from it. There was going to be dulling issues for sure. I had someone make a sheath for it. In the future I will be checking out the knife and sheath before purchasing it. This one was purchased on line, so I could not lay hands on it until it arrived at my house.
I would say both: I suspect that Secure-Ex has some enforcing material, maybe glass fiber, and when drawing/reinserting the knife, the cutting edge might get dull. It is my suspicion. For example I presented a new Outdoorsman lite and the person said that he couldn't use it on a game while hunting. I had to sharpen it afterwards and instructed him how to draw and insert it spine to the edge...
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Secure Ex is glass reinforced nylon I believe. It absolutely will dull any edge that touches it. Cold Steel modified the sheaths to eliminate the issue, but they were only partially successful. It comes down to luck. For example, I have an older San Mai Tanto with the pre-correctec sheath, and it works fine if you are careful. I have a new Minitac Tanto on which the sheath us perfect. It makes no difference how you draw the knife or put it away, the edge is safe. I also have a new 3V Master Hunter and the sheath badly dulls the edge no matter what you do. It's luck.
I now locate and budget a new sheath into the price of every Cold Steel fixed blade I buy. Which is kinda why I have largely stopped buying them. Lately I have been satisfying my fixed blade interests with Bark River -- though today I picked up a used A.G. Russell dagger in a pawn shop.
I now locate and budget a new sheath into the price of every Cold Steel fixed blade I buy. Which is kinda why I have largely stopped buying them. Lately I have been satisfying my fixed blade interests with Bark River -- though today I picked up a used A.G. Russell dagger in a pawn shop.
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The synthetic sheath that makes the most sense to me is a molded sheath like Kydex or Boltaron, where the two haves are fastened together by eyelets. With the correct eyelet spacing, the apex will actually never contact anything, enabling you to sheath and unsheath without having to put on your kid gloves.
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DocJD
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I would wait to see if you have an actual problem .
Not everyone or every CS sheath is effected .
I've never had the problem , enough to notice .
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I'm about to get a Tai Pan and I'll have to make (or look for) a sheath.
I'm looking forward to do the same with the Tantos.
The only exceptions are the SRKs. They're very easy to sharp and I won't bother. I'm working (and playing) a lot with them and no problems so far.
I'm looking forward to do the same with the Tantos.
The only exceptions are the SRKs. They're very easy to sharp and I won't bother. I'm working (and playing) a lot with them and no problems so far.
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To elaborate on what I said above, before buying any Cold Steel fixed blade I try to locate an acceptable sheath in leather or kydex. Yes, the secure-ex sheath might be fine, several of mine are, but that seems risky. If I cannot find a sheath I like, or find the combined price of the new knife and sheath excessive, I do not buy the knife.
More, until I see evidence otherwise I am going to assume the GSM's service will be nonexistent and that they will do everything possible to cut costs and quality while jacking up prices. The sheaths are bad enough now, but GSM can make them worse.
More, until I see evidence otherwise I am going to assume the GSM's service will be nonexistent and that they will do everything possible to cut costs and quality while jacking up prices. The sheaths are bad enough now, but GSM can make them worse.