Secure X woes

[Trailer_Ape]

I was wrong - my Son DID order my present and it (Cold Steel Master Tanto San Mai) showed up today. It is pretty weird because the Warcraft I ordered is showing up tomorrow (according to the tracking).

So... all excited, inspection was good (grind wasn't dead even but close enough. I get the sheath on my belt and am all ready to go around with my new bling BUT it will not "click" into the sheath. At first I thought maybe they cranked down the screws that hold the belt loop on. So I backed them out but it did not help. The knife will not click into the sheath. I had planned on bending my own (sheath) anyway but the knife is supposed to come with a usable sheath so I want mine.

He bought it from Midway. I already talked to them. Only option is to swap out the whole package. That scares me because I was happy with the knife BUT... can't just send the sheath back

So... I will get the return started and go back to waiting. At least I will have a Warcraft while I wait... if that sheath isn't wonky. Wr will see tomorrow.

 

[fishface5]

Well that's a bummer but those sheaths are known to dull edges anyway so is it worth it to get a sheath that clicks but dulls?

 

[rlewpolar]

There are two retention nubs inside the mouth of the sheath. File those down a bit and the knife should seat correctly. Ive had this same problem before with numerous Secure X sheaths. Will take 30 seconds of filing, not worth sending the knife back for this

P.S. Some Secure X sheaths dull and some don’t. It’s largely dependent on the model of knife. On the Master Tanto sheaths, I’ve had good luck with the sheaths not dulling the blades. Make sure to insert the sheath with the spine of the knife pressed against the sheath

 

[SkinnyElectrician]

Same thing happened to me with Midway’s SRK in 3V. I kept the knife and ordered a nice leather sheath online, but it cost me an extra $35. If you got a good deal and you like the knife, consider an aftermarket sheath.

 

[DocJD]

I've never had any trouble with a Cold Steel sheath, that I couldn't fix pretty easy .

They usually come with a high retention . Which is great , IMO . Some users want to be able to invert carry, with no strap .

With a bit of heat from a heat gun , or even a hair dryer , adjustments can be made . To tighten or loosen .

I first just dab a bit of silicone / teflon grease onto the "ears" on the mouth of the sheath, and shove the knife in and out repeatedly .

This is normally enough to give me the high retention that I prefer ; whilst still being able to draw easily enough , with a deliberate pull .

 

[Trailer_Ape]

There are two retention nubs inside the mouth of the sheath. File those down a bit and the knife should seat correctly. Ive had this same problem before with numerous Secure X sheaths. Will take 30 seconds of filing, not worth sending the knife back for this

P.S. Some Secure X sheaths dull and some don’t. It’s largely dependent on the model of knife. On the Master Tanto sheaths, I’ve had good luck with the sheaths not dulling the blades. Make sure to insert the sheath with the spine of the knife pressed against the sheath

Ok now this sounds tempting. I was looking into the opening and can see the contact point. Not a lot of room to work, file? Like round file? It looks pretty cramped, room enough for a dremmel but that can go terribly wrong. I knew it wasn't kydex, if it was - a heat gun and some lovin (I used to run a small sheath business and still have my equipment). I will look at it again tomorrow, see if a little filing might get me where I need to be.

Yea, I've heard of the dulling. I've been careful with my old Recon 5 and do the "spine drag". Fortunately, there is enough "slop" where I can keep the edge off the sheath wall.

To all those saying "Aftermarket" - That's been the plan. I am either gonna make a kydex (used to sell em) or have a leather one made by "Spirit of the Bear" (his work is beautiful from what I've seen). I just also planned on having the original sheath as an option

I will look at it again and see if it looks like something I can tackle. Hate to swap out the whole shebang, get a perfect "secure X" (that doesn't even sound right lol) and a jaktup knife.

Thanks guys!

 

[DangerZone98]

I was wrong - my Son DID order my present and it (Cold Steel Master Tanto San Mai) showed up today. It is pretty weird because the Warcraft I ordered is showing up tomorrow (according to the tracking).

So... all excited, inspection was good (grind wasn't dead even but close enough. I get the sheath on my belt and am all ready to go around with my new bling BUT it will not "click" into the sheath. At first I thought maybe they cranked down the screws that hold the belt loop on. So I backed them out but it did not help. The knife will not click into the sheath. I had planned on bending my own (sheath) anyway but the knife is supposed to come with a usable sheath so I want mine.

He bought it from Midway. I already talked to them. Only option is to swap out the whole package. That scares me because I was happy with the knife BUT... can't just send the sheath back

So... I will get the return started and go back to waiting. At least I will have a Warcraft while I wait... if that sheath isn't wonky. Wr will see tomorrow.

I can tolerate slightly uneven grinds, minor scratches, etc., but a sheath that doesn’t click is a no-no for me. Just like a folder with poor detent or lockup. That is unless I’m picking up a different sheath for it anyway, but I don’t think that’s high on your priority list?

You were right to return it, man. I’m sure your son will understand. The new knife will be the real present.

 

[rlewpolar]

Ok now this sounds tempting. I was looking into the opening and can see the contact point. Not a lot of room to work, file? Like round file? It looks pretty cramped, room enough for a dremmel but that can go terribly wrong. I knew it wasn't kydex, if it was - a heat gun and some lovin (I used to run a small sheath business and still have my equipment). I will look at it again tomorrow, see if a little filing might get me where I need to be.

Yea, I've heard of the dulling. I've been careful with my old Recon 5 and do the "spine drag". Fortunately, there is enough "slop" where I can keep the edge off the sheath wall.

To all those saying "Aftermarket" - That's been the plan. I am either gonna make a kydex (used to sell em) or have a leather one made by "Spirit of the Bear" (his work is beautiful from what I've seen). I just also planned on having the original sheath as an option

I will look at it again and see if it looks like something I can tackle. Hate to swap out the whole shebang, get a perfect "secure X" (that doesn't even sound right lol) and a jaktup knife.

Thanks guys!

Yes, just a round file or any file that will fit in there. It won’t take much filing, just shave a bit off each contact point and keep trying the knife. Eventually it will seat. Basically you are just reducing the height of those two nubs by maybe 20%. Dremel is way overkill for this and it would be very easy to completely flatten those two nubs and then you may as well use that sheath as a doorstop . Easy job, way easier than making a new sheath or sending it back. Good luck, let us know how it goes

 

[Cementite]

I've never had any trouble with a Cold Steel sheath, that I couldn't fix pretty easy .

I just got a Cold Steel SRK in 3V from Midway (I wanted a 3V knife for a while and it was on sale pretty cheap so I couldn't resist), and I had heard all the complaints about the SRK sheaths, but I like the sheath a lot straight out of the box, and I don't have a single complaint. I especially like the way the knife seems to "seat" in the last 1/2" of thrust into the sheath, almost like a cork into a bottle. It feels very secure, like it would never fall out on its own, even upside-down and without the retention strap.

Maybe I just got lucky?

On mine, the "indentations" in the sheath press against the sides of the blade, but as far as I can tell, nowhere in the sheath do they touch the edge of the blade. My knife came with the blade greased and you can see very well (where the grease gets rubbed off) exactly where the indentations squeeze the blade ... and the closest they come to the edge is maybe 1/8". The retention indentations are also parallel to the primary bevel (flat grind on the 3V version), so they're never going to touch the apex, so long as you have a secondary bevel...

I suppose if you really tried, you could force the blade into the sheath in such a way that it might touch the apex, but even if it did, so what? Steel is a lot harder than plastic so I don't see what all the fuss is about -- it's like worrying that if you cut something soft (like wood or the plastic used in the sheath) you'll dull the knife or something. Maybe if the sheath was full of sand you could do some damage, but I suspect that would be the case whether or not it had those retention indentations. Like I said, either I just got lucky or they changed the design...

 

[rlewpolar]

I just got a Cold Steel SRK in 3V from Midway (I wanted a 3V knife for a while and it was on sale pretty cheap so I couldn't resist), and I had heard all the complaints about the SRK sheaths, but I like the sheath a lot straight out of the box, and I don't have a single complaint. I especially like the way the knife seems to "seat" in the last 1/2" of thrust into the sheath, almost like a cork into a bottle. It feels very secure, like it would never fall out on its own, even upside-down and without the retention strap.

Maybe I just got lucky?

On mine, the "indentations" in the sheath press against the sides of the blade, but as far as I can tell, nowhere in the sheath do they touch the edge of the blade. My knife came with the blade greased and you can see very well (where the grease gets rubbed off) exactly where the indentations squeeze the blade ... and the closest they come to the edge is maybe 1/8". The retention indentations are also parallel to the primary bevel (flat grind on the 3V version), so they're never going to touch the apex, so long as you have a secondary bevel...

I suppose if you really tried, you could force the blade into the sheath in such a way that it might touch the apex, but even if it did, so what? Steel is a lot harder than plastic so I don't see what all the fuss is about -- it's like worrying that if you cut something soft (like wood or the plastic used in the sheath) you'll dull the knife or something. Maybe if the sheath was full of sand you could do some damage, but I suspect that would be the case whether or not it had those retention indentations. Like I said, either I just got lucky or they changed the design...

I’ve found the quality of Secure X sheaths variable across models. I have many Cold Steel fixed blades and I would say 80% of the sheaths are perfect. But on certain models, the sheaths are consistently problematic. The problem the OP is having with his Master Tanto sheath is typical (the knife won’t seat because the retention nubs are slightly too thick). The dulling issue is another problem only on certain models. The one that bothers me the most though is the scratching of the blade. I remember putting in a gorgeous new Tai Pan into its sheath for the first time and small fine scratches appeared immediately. It’s always a crap shoot when I buy a Cold Steel fixed blade. The first thing I do is google that model and read if anyone is having problems with the sheath. If so, I won’t even bother with it. I just order a custom sheath from my favorite kydex maker and I know I’ll have a perfect fitting sheath. I’ve also ordered a couple of custom leather jobs (one for a Recon Scout and another for the Tai Pan) and have been very pleased. Secure X sheaths are great…but there are total duds out there and again, it’s model dependent

 

[jbmonkey]

I just got a Cold Steel SRK in 3V from Midway (I wanted a 3V knife for a while and it was on sale pretty cheap so I couldn't resist), and I had heard all the complaints about the SRK sheaths, but I like the sheath a lot straight out of the box, and I don't have a single complaint. I especially like the way the knife seems to "seat" in the last 1/2" of thrust into the sheath, almost like a cork into a bottle. It feels very secure, like it would never fall out on its own, even upside-down and without the retention strap.

Maybe I just got lucky?

On mine, the "indentations" in the sheath press against the sides of the blade, but as far as I can tell, nowhere in the sheath do they touch the edge of the blade. My knife came with the blade greased and you can see very well (where the grease gets rubbed off) exactly where the indentations squeeze the blade ... and the closest they come to the edge is maybe 1/8". The retention indentations are also parallel to the primary bevel (flat grind on the 3V version), so they're never going to touch the apex, so long as you have a secondary bevel...

I suppose if you really tried, you could force the blade into the sheath in such a way that it might touch the apex, but even if it did, so what? Steel is a lot harder than plastic so I don't see what all the fuss is about -- it's like worrying that if you cut something soft (like wood or the plastic used in the sheath) you'll dull the knife or something. Maybe if the sheath was full of sand you could do some damage, but I suspect that would be the case whether or not it had those retention indentations. Like I said, either I just got lucky or they changed the design...

not harder than the fiberglass in the frn... fiberglass(reinforced nylon) in the plastic. this is why Demko made his take apart sheath with plastic without glass in it inside the frame strength part and patented it......so it wouldnt ever dull the edge. Demko who worked at cold steel understood the problem with the secure x sheaths.

lots of stuff will wear an edge to nothing fast. fiberglass ductboard takes one sheet cut and its dull.

some secure x fit right and theyre fine. some don't and they're a headache. it's all a tolerance issue. I've seen same exact knife one fits fine one doesn't in the same sheath. swap the sheaths and they fit fine. I believe it's the measurements from the blade and edge that causes an issue or doesnt.

 

[Cementite]

Hmmm...good point on the fiberglass. I didn't think about there being FG in the plastic. Yeah, FRP is hard on edges. I've cut up boats and they'll wipe out sawzall blades in no time flat (mainly from heat and loss of HT hardening, but still -- glass is hard)...

On the other hand, the sheath (mine, anyway) is assembled from two halves such that if the edge did contact the sheath, I suspect it would touch it right at the seam...in other words, the apex probably would not actually contact anything except the hairline gap between the two halves, with the "shoulders" behind the apex wedging the halves apart...? Can't say for sure, since I've never taken one of these sheaths apart to see the inside.

Whatever the case, my specimen is the orange jobbie in 3V with the orange sheath...don't know whether they used different sheaths for that one.

 

[Trailer_Ape]

Well it gets worse! Ok, I bought a small metal nail file. Unfortunately, the "file" teeth started 3/4" up the blade / shaft. EZ 2 remedy - lopped an inch off, cleaned up the edge. I go to work, little by little. I do NOT check the fit without rinsing the entire sheath tho because - if that FRN is bad to drag a blade across, the FRN powder is probably not something I want grinding between my blade and sheath. After a few tries, with no change.... yea, u know it DREMMEL time This doesn't end how u think. I STILL couldn't get them low enough (probably shaved off 40%) to accept the guard. I say "Poop on this! I'm sending it back" (there's no "tell tale" inside the mouth). So, I throw on my Warcraft. The sheath is so tight (I don't mean retention, I mean the halves squeezing the blade all the way down. The opposite of "rattle"). I would not have even inserted the knife one time but it is stonewashed so... OK, 40 or so draws later, it is still difficult to do one handed AND the factory edge is gone.

This, while anger inducing, makes me think - why the heck would I send my crappy sheath back when odds are I'm just getting another crappy sheath (keep in mind - my Recon Tanto falls out if you turn the sheath upside down). EVERY Cold Steel sheath I have is garbage. Sending one back, believing I will get a good one is like borrowing money against next week's lotto winnings LOL.

Nah, sheaths go in the original boxes and.... S.O.T.B. has already been reached out to. Get a nice leather for the Master and I will dust off my kydex equipment and press one out for the Warcraft (if I keep the knife, it has a major shortcoming).

Oh well - there's the upd8 - I hate their sheaths but won't bother exchanging them because I have ZERO faith in their ability to make a good one. Side note - reviews coming (on my channel) but, spoiler - if there was anyone who didn't already know, the Master Tanto is gorgeous, well made, and comes out nice and sharp (not Recon 1 Folder 8 stitches in my trigger finger sharp but sharp).

Morning rant over, thanks "vent" bros