Seeking tips / input with handle replacement

COSMO

COSMO

Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
453
Hoping for some input on the restoration of this flea market cleaver, specifically, the handles. Since I paid only $1 for this, I thought it would be a good project to learn how to properly replace handles.
The wood handles were cracked and separating so I carefully removed them. My thinking was that I can use them as reference when crating the new ones. I am comfortable with all the metal work, cleaning it up, sharpening Etc. It's the handle fit and finish that I am not as experienced with.
I appreciate any tips and input on what the easiest handle hardware and material for a novice to use is, and if there is a specific order I should follow for the restoration and new handles. I was thinking G10 for the handles. The rivets in the picture look easy to work with, not sure if that is my best bet though. Also, the two smaller handle holes are 5/32, the middle hole is 3/16
Thanks in advance for any input, if I do a good enough job, perhaps my wife will actually use the finished product in the kitchen.

Cosmo

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I'd fill the cracks with thin Super Glue, sand the backs to get them flat again and salvage the original wood. The rivets could be replaced with Chicago Screws if you can't find brass replacement rivets. The center hole in the tang isn't used to fasten the scales.
 
The handles are kingwood. As Squid said, just Super Glue them, sand them and reinstall.
The rivets are called cutler's rivets. jantzsupply.com carries them.
 
The original scales are asymmetrical and kind of beat. Throw them out. Same with the rivets. Instead of rivets, use brass pins (or whatever material you want).

Clean up the blade.

Choose whatever kind of material you want for the new scales. You can rip strips of wood on a table saw. Now cut/grind/sand them to the general size you're looking for, but leave them oversize. Leave them a hair thicker than the finished size, as well.

Now sand the inside surfaces of the scales FLAT. Mark out the holes and drill them to the finish size. DON'T blow out the holes on the outside surface and create a ragged hole. Careful.

Epoxy the scales to the blade, and the pins in the holes. Clamp it all tight and let it set up.

NOW is when you'll want to sand everything to size. Use a belt sander, file, sandpaper, or whatever to bring the edges of the scales down to size. The metal will guide you to get the scales PERFECT. Also sand the thickness of the scales to exactly what you're looking for. Along the way, round the edges and create the bevels you're looking for. Since it's all put together, it's easy to go side-to-side to get your symmetry perfect.

Finish whatever way you like.
 
I’d do what rusty iron said. With one possible exception. I’d consider using all three holes in the tang for pins, but not drill all the way through the handle slabs. So the pins were hidden.
 
R RustyIron
Thanks, I appreciate your input, especially on the order to follow. This seems doable!!
eveled eveled
I thought about hidden pins, perhaps when I have mastered doing it without hiding them I will try that.

very much appreciate your input!!

Cosmo
 
I'd follow rusty's suggestion. Hidden pins are not difficult to do. You could try making some handles with hidden pins using some scrap wood just to get an idea of what you are doing.
 
I had thought the hidden pins would make it easier for you.

It’s a great project, be sure to post pictures!
 
Hidden pins only compensate for shear forces.
If you use mechanical fasteners, the handle doesn't even need glue. Flat scales on a full tang should always use mechanical fasteners.
 
If you use stainless steel self-clinching fasteners with matching machine screws you'll have a handle that can be disassembled or tightened. If there's a Fastenal near you they'll probably have some.
 
You can make scales out of almost any fine grained hardwood, delrin etc, depends on the look you're going for. Think ahead of time if you want spacers or whatnot.

Also depending on how fancy you can peen your own rivets from aluminum or brass round stock or heavy gauge copper wire. I modified a small punch to have a concave face and finish them off between that and a matching divet on my vise. Or just buy some cutler's rivets. You won't even need epoxy, as mentioned. Oversize them rough and sand them down to fit.
 
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