Selecting a New Hunting Knife

C

captkirk1963

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Mar 21, 2008
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I would like to purchase a new lightweight (less than 5 oz.), fixed blade, drop point hunting knife with at least a 3" blade that will hold a decent edge without being too difficult to re-sharpen in the field with a diamond stick or steel (this is key!).

I called Spyderco tech support the other day, and I was advised to consider purchasing the Bill Moran FB02 made out of VG-10.

I hunt deer and elk with bow all over the western mountains, and I always try to keep the blade away from their hair during field dressing process.

I currently have a Benchmade McHenry & Williams folder made of 154CM. The Benchmade sharpens up real well back home and at base camp with my Lansky, but it really sucks :( to re-sharpen it in the field with just my Gerber Diamond Stick, EZE-Lap Diamond Stick, or Lansky Mini Carbide/Ceramic.

So when I first heard all the hype about S30V I was kind of excited, BUT everyone I have been hearing stories about its edge chipping and difficulties being re-sharpened in the field (like the 154CM). The VG-10 sounds like it holds a great edge, BUT I am worried about it being too hard to re-sharpen in the field like the 154CM. So my personal needs are leaning more towards the ease of field re-sharpening versus the edge retention.

So my question is ... Is the VG-10 really going to meet my needs OR am I really going to have to lower the quality of my steel selection to something like 440C?

Whether its 440C or something else, I'd like to hear some leads for quality production and or custom knives that might fit the bill for what I am after. Money is not a real big issue, but my frustration is a bit of an issue.

Thanks in advance,

captkirk1963:cool:[/SIZE]
 
How much field use and subsequent sharpening are we talking about? A different knife, one made for your kind of use like the Spydie Moran, may be enough of a change to cut down on how much you need to touch up the blade in the field.
 
I would recommend the Knives of Alaska Elk Hunter. It's D2 but if you don't let it get to dull it resharpens pretty easy.
 
cant be of much helpto you ,im in similar situation to you .i had tried to order a buck vanguard in s30v steel ,cabelas seemed to be the only place to have one ,but they dont ship to australia ,then i had doubts as i to heard some mention of chipping .so im still searching ,would appreciate if you post back here in your column what your final decision is. cheers sqiurrel..
 
How would you feel about taking a strop into the field instead of a diamond stick or steel? It would be light and easy to carry. Then you could look at the outstanding options from Bark River. Once you get used to the convex edge and how easy it is to touch up with a strop, it will be hard to use anything else. They have plenty of models, but for hunting some good options would be the Fox River or Highland Special.
 
Jujigatame - During the process of breaking down (gutting, skinning, and deboning) a large bull elk, I will typically have to re-sharpen my BM with 154 CM at least three times. It seems to take quite awhile to place only a meager edge back on the knife. Since I backpack into my hunting country up to 12 miles in early September, when it can be quite warm, I would like to speed up the whole process without increasing my pack weight. Thus, my 5 oz. weight limit. For this particular job, I am starting to lean more towards the ease of re-sharpening a knife over its edge retention properties. Do you think that VG-10 will hold an edge that much better than 154CM or do you think that it will be that much easier to re-sharpen than the 154CM?

Udtjim - I already have a KOA Light Hunter (received as a gift) that is made of D2 steel. I have not personally found that the D2 is any easier to re-sharpen than the 154 CM nor does it hold the edge that much longer. Plus, its name is a real misnomer. It weighs at least 8 oz. and its a 1/4" thick at its backbone. Since its intended use is for skinning, I do not pack it unless the animal is close to the road (which seems like never). Also, I have noticed some small spots of corrosion from its contact with blood. The orange handle on the Elk Hunter is appealing though, but I have never been able to find any weight specs on it.

Lambertiana - I honestly do not have any experience with a strop at all. Perhaps you could give me some more information or some possible resources. How much do the lightest one's weigh? Do they remain effective it they get wet and will they take on water weight? I have been looking at the Bark River knives for about a year now. But, most them are made out out of A2 steel. I may be wrong, but I always thought that for edge retentiona and re-sharpening that the A2 would behave similar to that of the D2?

I have found an interesting little knife called a Packer's Caper with 440C at www.savagesmith.com, but I do not have any experience with them. I found some interesting knives at www.seamountknifeworks.com, but the owner has a 1 year backlog on orders. Business must be pretty good for him, BUT … that turns out to be not so good for me.

I do appreciate everyone’s help!:)
 
Go over to the A G Russell site and look at the Deer Hunter. It comes in your choice of D-2, AUS-8 or VG-10. its lightweight, and inexpensive. It doesnt look like its built strong enough for cutting through bones though. I hunt Elk also and my next knife is going to be the Cabellas Alaskan Guide PBS in S30V. If you havent seen that one look it over, Ive heard many good things about it.
 
I think Spyderco gave you good advice on the Moran Lightweight. I suggest you get the dropped point model. The upswept model is good for skinning, but you can't beat a dropped point for opening up an animal without spilling the innards.
 
Well, VG10 versus 154 in terms of edge retention will depend, in part, on the kind of blade (shape, edge geometry, etc.) and how well it's suited for the task at hand. I can't claim to know anything about dressing an elk but just from what you describe it strikes me that a purpose made hunting/skinning knife wouldn't need 3 sharpening sessions per animal.

If you take similar blades, my experience so far is that VG10 and 154 are quite close for edge retention and resharpening.

As for A2 versus D2, A2 would have an advantage in toughness and resistance to chipping. Both tough steels but A2 can take a real beating. D2 is the better edge holder over the long haul. Both would require more vigilant maintenance to prevent corrosion than VG10 and 154.
 
Something from Eddie White will work very well. Check the link (shadowknives) in my sig line if you are interested. His 440C holds a mean edge. Easy to get real sharp too. Oh and did I mention that it is all American made?

Otherwise I'd go with the Moran.
 
Here are a few more to consider, from (L-R) the Benchmade Activator+ (BM 201) to some Bark Rivers: Huntsman, Fox River, Gameskeeper North Star, and TUSK, all in A2. The BM is 5 oz, while the larger Gameskeeper and Fox River get close to 6 oz - the TUSK and Huntsman are <4 oz. If the .187" thick stout little Huntsman is too small, the .170" Fox River - or better, .215" Gameskeeper may be more appropriate. All are convex and A2, except the BM, which is D2 - and was not quite sharp enough as delivered - and is more of a chore to get to true sharpness. The Bark River knives all came nearly scarey sharp - and have maintained that with minimal stropping. 'knivesshipfree.com' generally has a strop/hone and the coating available - nice guy to do business with, Derek. Larry, at 'dlttradingcompany.com', is just as nice, and has a few more goodies - and some other MI UP knives. A strop/hone is a piece of leather coated with a waxy super fine abrasive - some even use a PC mouse pad coated - or covered with 1,500+ grit SiC paper. I use the old mouse pad and some Semichrome - but I am cheap!

IMG_0467_edited.jpg


Of course, if you like 'regular' edges - and the care of carbon tool steel is not your cup-o-tea, consider just a regular Buck 420HC bladed Vanguard 192. Although 6.3-6.6 oz, it is a great handling and 'safe' knife (I must have some forefinger protection...), and holds it's edge quite well, while easily repaired with a pocket fine diamond hone. My S30V Alaskan Guide Vanguard has held up quite well to wood chores - mainly whittling. Neither it, my AG 110, #408 Kalinga Pro, or #419 Folding Kalinga Pro show any signs of chipping - or have needed anything over a brief stropping. Perhaps Buck's heat treating is as good as the hype - even in S30V.

Stainz
 
I'm with Stainz.... change your preferred method of sharpening and get a Bark River ((( :D ))). By the time you set it down from being in your hand the first time, you'll be thinking about your next one! Then, you'll be carrying two or more of them in the field, and will save all your sharpening and touching up for when you get home :thumbup:
(actually, you'll touch it up in the field with your diamond stick [lightly], then re-hone on sandpaper when you get home)

I have heard of S30V chipping easily, and I've read a few threads here about that. It goes against my experience though. I have 3 of them and haven;t experienced any chipping. Maybe they're lemons.............

Also, I never heard of 154CM being hard to sharpen in the field. I have more than 3 154CM blades and they're a dream to sharpen, each one. Now, if I had some trepidation about sharpening in the field, and I had to choose between 154CM and S30V, I'd take the 154CM each and every time.
 
Here's something else Captkirk. Even though you're bow hunting, you drive in to or near your campsite. Survival situations notwithstanding, I've never been hunting or fishing where I wasn;t able to carry just about anything I wanted. I mean, maybe not with me during stalking, but back at camp or at the truck. So......... you could take along a Sharpmaker or a sandpaper (convex) kit, or the like. I'd say go for the one you like the best, and give the steel second billing on the order of preference. :)
 
captkirk,just thought id let you know ive finally ordered a bark river fox river ,cost me $205 here ,a lot compared to what you guys would pick them up for.thanks to all for your opinions otherwise i probably would have purchased something that was crap..cheers.
 
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