Selecting quality stones for hand sharpening

[Mitchell Knives]

I think I want to try sharpening my knives free hand with a flat stone instead of using my trusty sharpmaker. I think the sharpmaker works fine but, I could probably get a better edge using a flat stone.

I was looking at a couple of options. For around $30, DMT makes a Diafold Diamond Whetstone. It has different grits on each side and folds up into a handle kind of like a balisong knife. I think this would probably be ok considering all my blades are around 4 inches. Would this be ok for 4-5 inch knives?

I happened to notice that walmart had a few flat stones by a company named "Smith's". I've never heard of this company before, and wondered if there stones were any good. I think they were natural Arkansas stones.

Also, I'm not really sure on how to maintain the angle while free hand sharpening. It seems like this would be kind of hard to do. Any tips on how to do this would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[PWork]

Smith's is a good company for sharpening stones. The two sided DMT is a great field sharpener and can be used on any size blade. You may have to use a filing motion for larger blades.
The Spyderco Pro-Files have become my favorite stones. You can sharpen any edge type with these, plain, serrated, or recurved.
The best way I can tell you to maintain the proper angle is practice, practice, practice. Start off with an old beater that you really don't care too much about. Be patient and it will come to you eventually. Good luck.

Paul

 

[bansidthe]

I have spent lots of $$$ on stones for free hand sharpening over the last 30 years. Started with oil stones, went to water stones and also have purchased diamond files and stones. Told the wife that the diamonds were for her. Diamond stones cut the fastest and work best with real hard steels. I have not been able to find them in as fine grits as the water stones though...4000 grit. Water stones cut quickly but are softer than all others and you may dig the edge of the blade into the surface if you have been using a harder stone. That will pass as you gain experience if you go that route. Oilstones are also availabe in a wide range...up to hard arkansas stones. They cut less quickly for me compared to the other two types but don't have to be flattened as frequently as water stones. Diamond stones don't have to flattened for the life of the stone though. ceramic crock sticks (similar to steels) are very useful for light touch ups.

I have some of the folding DMT diamond files and they work fine for blades of the lenght you mention.Be sure to firmly support the free end or you will not be able to put any sort of edge on.

If you are a neophyte at free hand sharpening, it might be easiest to purchase a value priced coarse and fine oil stone first since it is easier to learn free hand sharpening on a flat stone.

 

[T. Erdelyi]

Whatever you go with buy the largest stone you can afford.

Here IMHO is my take on freehand sharpening.

Having been sharpening my own blades for the last 20 years I've come to notice a few things in regards to what you use to sharpen a knife. Diamond hones remove massive amounts of steel and sharpen a blade fast but even with the finest hone you will still need to finish your blade on a strop or ceramic hone to smooth out the edge. Always sharpen at the desired angle,(between 17-24 degrees, depending on the thickness of the blade) till you get a wire edge on one side, (the best way to feel for this is to slide your thumbnail from the spine side, or back of the blade towards the edge) when you encounter a wire edge it will feel like a little lip has formed where the wire edge has rolled over. Next sharpen the opposite side till you achieve the same result. Done on a Fine Diamond Hone, finish off by repeating the process using lighter pressure on each subsequent stroke and the wire edge will become smaller. When the wire edge is barely noticeable with your fingernail. Finish with a leather strop and stropping compound by applying a reasonable amount of force and dragging the blade backwards on the leather at a slightly less angle than you sharpened,(the leather will actually curl around the edge of the blade and wear off the wire edge) after a few strokes on the leather on both side you should have a finished edge. When the edge of the sharpened blade is rested on the smooth part of your thumbnail it will dig in, (bite into the nail with no additional pressure), Your knife should now be shaving sharp.

Diamonds are more aggressive and faster than wet stones or oilstones. But wet stones or oilstones will accomplish the same results with a smoother more polished edge, and depending on the grit of the stone may take a lot longer. The key either way is repetition, the more you perform the same task your brain starts memorizing the pathways through your body needed to accomplish this task. Eventually holding an angle, smoothness of stroke, all become second nature, and the task becomes easier. That’s why it always looks easier when someone else whose good at it does it.

My way is not the only way but it works for me, if you feel confident enough to attempt your own blades, start on a cheaper knife that your not afraid of ruining, and remember it’s easier to sharpen a knife that’s not dull, than to sharpen one that is. So don’t wait till your knife won’t even cut butter before you dress up that edge. LOL

PS as for my preference I prefer a diamond hone just because I think it's quicker, and more versatile I can accomplish the same thing with one hone by just varying pressure to the blade as I sharpen.

As far as maintaining the angle I use my thumb against the spine of the blade as I push, or pull the the blade edge against the stone.

LOL

 

[Daniel Koster]

Which technique do you prefer: push or pull, or both?

Dan

 

[T. Erdelyi]

I do both on my bench stones, and because I'm right handed I tend to push away first to get my primary bevel and first wire edge. I do this because my weak hand is actually holding the angle with my thumb as a guide, and on the returning pull I am better able to hold the angle with my right,(strong hand) alone. Then it's just a few strokes to get the wire edge evened up then a good stropping to finish off.

We are talking about sharpening, because taken out of context it sounds like something totally different.

(...and on the returning pull I am better able to hold the angle with my right,(strong hand) alone. Then it's just a few strokes...then a good stropping to finish off.)