Serrated blade options out there (and H1 too)?

S

ShooterMcgavin

Joined
Jan 20, 2008
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Hey all. I have never been a fan of serrated blade knives (mostly, combo edges), but I do see a very good use for full serrations. I especially see a benefit with a long, serrated blade, like something over 3", or even 4". I would like to have a full-serrated blade, just for rope cutting needs. A few questions...

What do you guys like for full-length serrated blades out there?

How do you keep them sharp?

H1: In order to take benefit from it's work-hardening properties, must it be sharpened with a high-speed method? Does the heating cause work-hardening? How do the serrated H1 blades hold up to regular use?
 
Spyderco is the only company that comes to mind when it comes to fully serrated blades. As for combo edges, Kershaw makes some pretty nice serrations. The Veff serrations seem to be pretty good, but I have heard mixed things about their execution on CRKTs knives. I think Tom Veff will add the serrations for a fee to any other knife, though. I'm afraid I know nothing about H1, but I would NOT heat it. Real good way to wreck a knife.
 
I find the easiest method for sharpening SE edges is using the corners of the sharpmaker rods. I plan on getting a Spyderco Pacific Salt in the near future (once I get caught up on sprint runs I'm waiting for). As far as H1, Plain edge H1 is around 56-58 Hrc to start with which is why the edge holding is around 440B levels, the steel can be hardened if you use a belt sander or other high speed methord for sharpenings and you will see increased edge holding. However for the SE, version of H1, because of the extra heat and work that it takes to grind in the serrations the hardness levels will already be well into the 60's which is why you will see VG-10 to ZDP-189 levels of edge holding, so SE H1 doesn't really need extra work hardening like PE does to see edge holding benefits.
 
michaelm466 said:
...However for the SE, version of H1, because of the extra heat and work that it takes to grind in the serrations the hardness levels will already be well into the 60's which is why you will see VG-10 to ZDP-189 levels of edge holding, so SE H1 doesn't really need extra work hardening like PE does to see edge holding benefits.
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Thanks for including that. I was wondering if the SE versions already came at a harder level, or if people just spoke of the higher hardness that COULD come from sharpening the SE H1.

Along with the higher hardness of the SE H1, does the metal become overly brittle, as some steels will at higher RC levels?
 
Check out some of Cold Steel's full serrations.
Voyager series, holdout, and Talwar come to mind.
 
ShooterMcgavin said:
Thanks for including that. I was wondering if the SE versions already came at a harder level, or if people just spoke of the higher hardness that COULD come from sharpening the SE H1.

Along with the higher hardness of the SE H1, does the metal become overly brittle, as some steels will at higher RC levels?
Click to expand...

I haven't read of or experienced any brittleness myself, of course currently I have H1 serrations on a ladybug, so not super hard use, but from what I've read H1 is pretty tough stuff to start with.
 
Ive got the H1 Jumpmaster, which i strap to my leg when spearfishing. Havent had the need to sharpen it uet, but when i do, itll be on the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
 
I own both hawk and straight versions of spyderco h1 products, aint no doubt the spyderhawk SE is a rope cutting machine!
 
I love my ZDP-189 full serrated Spyderco Endura. It's the only serrated knife I EDC.

I keep it sharp with the corners of the Spyderco Sharpmaker ceramic rods. Being both serrated and ZDP, I've only sharpened it twice.

H1 steel in serrated form is reported to have an edge hardness of mid 60's on the RC scale. I suppose the grinding of the serrations work hardens the steel a good bit.

To the person that recommended Cold Steel for serrations, I disagree completely. I find Cold Steel to have the worst serrations on the market. The small scallops are not so much scallops as needle points. They are next to impossible to sharpen and tear at fiberous material like canvas. I prefer the serrations like Spyderco that use a "large, small small" pattern.
 
Heat doesnt cause work hardening. Enough heat will undo it. Work hardening requires plastic deformation, like bending, permanent stretching, cold rolling, drawing, etc. I would advise against power sharpening H1 in an effort to make it better.

I generally dislike serrated knives, but I have grown quite fond of my yellow, fully serrated Salt 1 from Spyderco. If serrations are what you want, Spyderco is the only way to go IMO.
 
A couple guys have alreay said they sharpen their se knives on the corners of a Sharpmaker. A SM makes it easy for me anyway. Knives

in se aren't any harder for me sharpen than knives in pe.

If you want a a big se, get a Police 3 se. I didn't mine so I traded it.......to a guy that cut him self in a few minutes after he got it. Ouch!!
 
I'm kinda thinking about the Byrd Cara Cara 2 with full SpyderEdge now. It has a longer blade than the Atlantic Salt and it is cheaper than anything else of its size with H1, even though H1 is probably better. I don't really NEED a large SpyderEdge blade now; it's more of a want, so the low price is attractive. I want it as a just-in-case knife if out boating (fresh water).
 
clockman said:
A couple guys have alreay said they sharpen their se knives on the corners of a Sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

Maybe I got it wrong, but the DVD that comes with the SM says to NOT mess with the grooves, Just do the "flats" on the backside to sharpen serrations. Maybe I heard it wrong. There's lots of good ways to do things.
 
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