Serrated or smooth contact wheel? Size?

richtrix

richtrix

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2000
Messages
350
Howdy....I will be ordering a grinder this week and would like you folks opinion on which contact wheel to get...serrated or smooth? I will be getting a BaderIII with 1 1/2hp variable motor,( changed my mind on the Coote) I have read that as a beginner I should get the 8" wheel, but it seems like most makers like the 10" or larger wheels. My question...If I go ahead and get the 10" will it make it a lot harder to learn to hollow grind? I have a few years of machine shop experience with some time spent hand grinding cutting tools, drills and such...Thanks guys for all the help, Richie

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"Trust everybody, but cut the cards."
 
From a beginners standpoint, I got my Grizzly a little less than a year ago, and I've gotten to play with it far less than I've wanted. I've completed two hollow ground blades on the 8" contact wheel, and started two others. Once I figured it out, it wasn't hard at all. I just installed a 10" serrated wheel on it, and hollow ground one blade to try it out. To me, it seemed much easier to hollow grind with the 10" serrated wheel, but there are a lot of other variables. The test blade was a much larger blade. 2 1/2" wide. The two completed blades I hollow ground on the 8" wheel were about 1" wide, and much shorter. Another variable was that the 10" wheel uses different belts. I only have zirc belts for the 10" wheel, and they have impressed me to no end. The groove was no problem to find, though. I'd have gotten the 10" wheel to start with if I'd have known it was going to be like this.

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Oz

"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
I ordered the B3 last week too, from TKS. I got it with a 10" serrated wheel on the owner's recommendation, but after reading some other posts have been wondering whether the smooth wheel would have been better. I've heard finishing goes better on the smooth wheel. Naturally I have no experience of my own to go from. (This week I'm building a new bench to put the new grinder on and move all the other finishing stuff to. Tonight I sold my old Craftsman jointer, and am debating whether to spend the money on a Harbor Freight band saw or pay down the credit card...
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Dave Larsen
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The greatest prayer is patience
-Buddha
 
I used an 8" wheel for several years and just started using a 10"X 1" this past year. I found it easier to grind on the ten inch wheel. The ten inch is smooth, but have used both serrated and smooth in the 8". I like the smooth wheel the best as it seems to give smoother finishes, but the serrated will run a little cooler.
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ddavelarsen:
Tonight I sold my old Craftsman jointer, and am debating whether to spend the money on a Harbor Freight band saw or pay down the credit card...
smile.gif
)

</font>
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Buy the bandsaw.....I got one of those HF bandsaws last year, after spending a little extra time tuning on the guide wheels its made a good little saw for the $$$....The legs are a little rickity but mine is still standing.........Richie

 
i almost got the bader3 and then checked out the hardcore from wwwtru-grit and i am glad i did. it is the smoooothest and its only about 20 to 50 bucks more. as far as the wheel diameter is concerned only cry once, get the 10" you will get it right. i my self am not real hot on hollow grinds they chip to easy i have a 10" on my coote but i am going to hold off until i can get a 14" for the hardcore a wide radus like that gives a strong blade. just my two cents, every one finds what works best for them

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
Serrated wheels are good for hogging material because they run cooler (less wheel to belt contact and resulting friction). However, I prefer a smooth contact wheel for main grinds on blades.

The diameter you need depends on the height of the blade you are grinding. Some folks like the looks of a 10" hollow grind. Some folks say a smaller diameter makes a more defined "groove" that's easier to follow when freehand grinding.

The thickness of the edge that you get when hollow grinding depends on how far up you grind. If you put the blade edge right at the wheel's radius, it will start thin and get thicker further up the blade. I prefer to have the radius about 1/4" or so up on the blade so you can resharpen it easier.

If you leave .020" or so on the edge, don't overheat the material, grind a few passes - changing frequently from side to side, and use a professional heat treater, you should'nt have too many problems with blades warping, chipping or cracking.

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Tom Anderson
Hand Crafted Knives

[This message has been edited by Tom Anderson (edited 01-17-2001).]
 
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