Serration Removal

M

mattking

Joined
Dec 9, 2013
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45
Okay so I have a Emerson CQC-7B with serrations and no wave. I have been talking to someone about getting it "pimped" but I haven't mentioned anything to him about taking off the serrations. I own a Ken Onion Work Sharp so I know I would be able to take the serrations off but will my knife look like a recurve? Ive seen some photos of people who have removed serrations and you could never tell. So I guess what I'm asking is if there if any way to take the serrations off and have the knife look like a normal cqc-7 without serrations. Thanks!
 
the knife would only look like a s-curve blade if you only remove material from the serrated protion. I believe what you are seeing on other modifications is that they have taken down an even amount of material from the entire lenght of the edge.
 
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Do not try and do grinding with a Worksharp. The belts are too small to do it in a reasonable time. You can send it somebody like RichardJ who can regrind it for a pretty low fee. If you want serrations ground off, you really want that whole cutting edge ground down so the knife doesn't look terrible and can be sharpened in the future.
 
Thanks guys you both answered me pretty much dead on, so if i take the serrations off and want it to look like a straight edge i would half to grind off more than jiust the serrations. thsnkd guys!
 
Yup pretty much, if you're dead set on doing it yourself do not use power tools. I believe that they take off material way to fast and are a bit harder to control, I prefer to use files and sand paper when removing material.
 
I.N.F.K said:
Yup pretty much, if you're dead set on doing it yourself do not use power tools. I believe that they take off material way to fast and are a bit harder to control, I prefer to use files and sand paper when removing material.
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Power tools, muscle control, and intelligence would get it done so much faster. Power tools can do hours of hand grinding in a few minutes. I would suggest using a lower speed bench grinder, a guided jig, and DO NOT let the blade be ground too much before cooling it (water works fine). If the blade gets to too hot to touch it has to he cooled down (it can technically go to around 400°F but cooling it around 150-180°F is just a lot safer).
 
dkb45 said:
Power tools, muscle control, and intelligence would get it done so much faster. Power tools can do hours of hand grinding in a few minutes. I would suggest using a lower speed bench grinder, a guided jig, and DO NOT let the blade be ground too much before cooling it (water works fine). If the blade gets to too hot to touch it has to he cooled down (it can technically go to around 400°F but cooling it around 150-180°F is just a lot safer).
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Call me old school, but I'm a avid believer in hand tools
 
I.N.F.K said:
Call me old school, but I'm a avid believer in hand tools
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Bah, power tools are the future, man. I was able to do nearly 5 hours worth of grinding via stone in like 30 minutes with my old belt sander. By hand is more forgiving, but you have fewer chances to stray from your desired angle while using power tools.
 
I.N.F.K said:
which is exactly why I like hand tools, they also take up less space and they're generally cheaper.
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That depends, actually. A belt sander with a full assortment of belts can run as low as about $70. A full assortment of the same grits in stones would run a lot more unless you cut corners (no pun intended) with cheap stones or rather small stones. Unless I found the wrong stones, a full set comparable to mg belt sander would have ran over $100.
 
mattking said:
Thanks guys you both answered me pretty much dead on, so if i take the serrations off and want it to look like a straight edge i would half to grind off more than jiust the serrations. thsnkd guys!
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Not only do you have to grind off more than the serrations, but you also end up with an edge that is in thicker metal, and won't cut as well, unless you work the entire knife (more than just the edge).

Sometimes, the best way to remove serrations, is to sell the knife and get the one you want. If it's a knife you plan on keeping/using for a long time, you'll be better off. Just an alternative to consider.
 
dkb45 said:
That depends, actually. A belt sander with a full assortment of belts can run as low as about $70. A full assortment of the same grits in stones would run a lot more unless you cut corners (no pun intended) with cheap stones or rather small stones. Unless I found the wrong stones, a full set comparable to mg belt sander would have ran over $100.
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Stones? sandpaper and files work the same, the only time when I use stones is when sharpening
 
I.N.F.K said:
Stones? sandpaper and files work the same, the only time when I use stones is when sharpening
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It may also be very dependant on the steel being ground. No bloody way I would ever do any serious work on S30V by hand again. My belt sander did about 6 hours worth of reprofiling in about 1. Best advice I can muster for that steel, don't try to seriously reprofile it unless you also enjoy incredible frustration and a whole lot of seemingly nothing being done.
 
dkb45 said:
It may also be very dependant on the steel being ground. No bloody way I would ever do any serious work on S30V by hand again. My belt sander did about 6 hours worth of reprofiling in about 1. Best advice I can muster for that steel, don't try to seriously reprofile it unless you also enjoy incredible frustration and a whole lot of seemingly nothing being done.
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I'll give you that, S30V is a steel I would not enjoy working on with hand tools. But I really only stick with the basic carbon steels myself.

900th post awesome
 
I personally wouldnt want to regrind a 200$ blade. I suggest selling it on here and buying the one without the serrations.
 
I've been following this thread and have a question. If you are going to reshape the blade on this knife, would you grind the blade at 90 degrees to reshape and remove the serrations then add new bevels? Or work on it using the bevel you hope to achieve in the end?
 
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