Serrations using modded DMT tapered rods

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Jun 4, 2010
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Here's a real short video showing how I repair and recondition serrations if they're too far gone for a quick touch-up.

[video=youtube;e0QumnRNveA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0QumnRNveA[/video]

If they're really blasted it is actually good practice to grind the tips down a bit at the approximate angle of the serration grind just like a sharpening a chisel grind - and then re-cut the serrations. Is even more time consuming but has the advantage of not pushing the serrations too far up into the primary grind.

Some serrations are intended to be very aggressive and the added treatment does little for the outcome, but the shallow ones such as on a bread knife loose a lot of efficiency if the scallop is cut too deep. Fortunately bread knives seldom need this sort of help. Kitchen utility serrated knives like this one however, are generally used pretty hard and the tips severely blunted. Not much point in fully reconstructing the scallop from tip to tip as they're the first thing to be blunted back down on glass or ceramic surfaces. However, regrinding them as far up the curve as practical yields a nice improvement.


This is part of a six knife set. To give an idea of how much this adds to overall time, the entire set took just under 90 minutes - the two serrated pieces (the other piece was a bread knife and I only had to touch up the back edge a bit and lightly strop with my card set-up, pic below), a boning knife, utility knife, small and large Chef's patterns. Just under 15 minutes a piece average and that included grinding back the bolsters on the utility and Chef knives, and an individual regrind on the serrated utility.


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Oh yeah, and the finished product because the video had my usual standards of clarity and composition....

Not bad for a complete rebuild on the fly if I do say so myself.

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Chris, watch it on full screen if on a desk/lap top, the viewing area being rotated is pretty small.

From now on if regrinding each scallop on a serrated set, I'm going to make it SOP to reset the edge bevel entirely first and then do the detail work. The peaks become a lot more aggressively formed that way, but I wanted to clear this knife ASAP and it was really beat up coming in, so a huge improvement in any event. Breezed through Manila rope with narry a tug.

Have tried a lot of different methods to get the most from my tapered rods but this one outdoes them all, and could still be done with unmodified DMT rods but the contact area would be a little less flexible. It basically locks down the tool and the workpiece, very clean result for what is basically freehand serrations.

Any of the smaller diamond files or stick abrasives could be used the same way on flat bevels and get a pretty precise result too - would be helpful in that case to raise the knife on a piece of wood or something to bring it up higher overall, since the angle to the edge would be a lot lower.
 
Thank you for sharing! The rolling motion is great idea! :thumbup:
I'd use it for the next knife I'm putting sharpening notch on.
 
As another practical application, any of the guided systems that use hones mounted to a rod could be used exactly the same way as a rapid means of sharpening or for tackling stuff that doesn't fit well on a clamp either too large or too small. Just rest the rod on a dowel of some sort and roll away.

Why just think it, when you can over-think it! Coming soon.....

boardroller_zpsawqdghof.jpg
 
Chris "Anagarika";16143851 said:
So you'd have WB2?

I dunno about that...To be a true precision unit you'd have to shim the roller bed for height every time a different width/grind angle was used. If you were to use it freehand it would be fast and easy, but then also take a bunch of effort on the user's part. Why not just buy a set of DMT files or similar, wrap a dowel in an old tire tube and off you go. Heck, you could probably stuff the rods from a Sharpmaker into some small diameter plastic waterpipe and do the same thing.

The idea is too simple to make money :)
 
I dunno about that...To be a true precision unit you'd have to shim the roller bed for height every time a different width/grind angle was used. If you were to use it freehand it would be fast and easy, but then also take a bunch of effort on the user's part. Why not just buy a set of DMT files or similar, wrap a dowel in an old tire tube and off you go. Heck, you could probably stuff the rods from a Sharpmaker into some small diameter plastic waterpipe and do the same thing.

The idea is too simple to make money :)

Unless i'm misinterpreting something, instead of tilting the knife and having the "stone" on a roller, just tilt the stone :D PaulSellersKnifeSharpeningSystem.png
EDy3aAk.png
 
Unless i'm misinterpreting something, instead of tilting the knife and having the "stone" on a roller, just tilt the stone :D PaulSellersKnifeSharpeningSystem.png
EDy3aAk.png

Also a practical idea but limited by having parallel scratch pattern, not ideal IMHO. Additionally, if the stone is smaller size and already on a rod, bracing it against a table would not be very stable and have nothing in common with the use of tapered rod demo'd in the video.
 
Also a practical idea but limited by having parallel scratch pattern, not ideal IMHO. Additionally, if the stone is smaller size and already on a rod, bracing it against a table would not be very stable and have nothing in common with the use of tapered rod demo'd in the video.
What do you mean ?
 
What do you mean ?

Looking at your diagram, there isn't enough stone to work the grind at an angle to the edge, it would have to be parallel to the edge. Even if the stone were long enough you'd be grinding the corner of your bench down. IMHO running the scratch pattern parallel to the edge is not good practice with exception of very fine polishing stones.

The half-spoof concept sketch I came up with was an elaboration of the roller idea. In practice (aside from working great with the DMT tapered rod and serrations as shown in the video) it would only be useful for rapid freehand work and touchups with rod-guided systems so you could freehand and take advantage of the shape and configuration of the stone and holder. The mechanics would be identical to those demo'd in the OP video...which I'm thinking you didn't take time to watch.
 
Looking at your diagram, there isn't enough stone to work the grind at an angle to the edge, it would have to be parallel to the edge. Even if the stone were long enough you'd be grinding the corner of your bench down. IMHO running the scratch pattern parallel to the edge is not good practice with exception of very fine polishing stones.

The half-spoof concept sketch I came up with was an elaboration of the roller idea. In practice (aside from working great with the DMT tapered rod and serrations as shown in the video) it would only be useful for rapid freehand work and touchups with rod-guided systems so you could freehand and take advantage of the shape and configuration of the stone and holder. The mechanics would be identical to those demo'd in the OP video...which I'm thinking you didn't take time to watch.
Hi,
Just like in your video/sketch you're rubbing regular style, perpendicular to the edge , not parallel,
Like this video
How to Sharpen a Knife with Paul Sellers
Thats what the sketch is based on, just one step further ,
instead of stone riding on table to produce convex grind,
stone rides on the edge of table so angle is the same

If you use a rod or paddle like paul originally does in his video,
the handle rubs on the edge of table instead of rolling on a roller

The abrasive is the hypotenuse of a triangle not the run of a triangle

If stone is not long enough , use thinner board on your table
If no clamp to hold stone, wrap some paper/ around the part rubbing on the "table" to save it
 
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