Servicing charges for high-end watches

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Oct 20, 2000
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Names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and other obscure-sounding ones have their own service centres.

Friends who own and wear some of these watches tell me that the servicing charges for these watches are truly daunting. Normally, the rule of the thumb is if you can afford them, you probably won't work out a sweat over the charges.

From the figures told to me, I reckon I can buy a watch or two. Somehow, the connoisseurs of watches say it isn't the same. It's like driving around in a Ferrari or a Rolls. The feel is different. And you don't quibble about the cost of petrol even if the vehicle drinks like a fish, so to speak.

I think I shall stick to my Casio Pro-Tek for the time being. It renders excellent service with zero maintenance for the next five years! ;)
 
I don't have a Rolex yet, but my cousin whom is a watch extraordinair has several :eek: He told me that he was able to get his President serviced by a private jeweler for ~80 dollars.
Matt
 
From things I've heard, an "official" Rolex maintenance can run upwards of $400(perhaps my friend got ripped off?).

I've had maintenance on a Breitling Pluton (a quartz watch) done for $45, but that was basically for a battery and a pressure check. A service by Chronoserve, for the Chronosport UDT quartz watches, runs about $100, and seems to need to be done every two years. *That* watch is supposedly a Breitling movement, BTW.

And a while back I had an old mechanical Orfina Lemania chrono (the sort worn by Tom Cruise in "Top Gun")done by one of the few authorized shops and it ran $300--granted, it needed it, and the watch came back like new, case and all. I can see mechanical movements costing a fair amount, though--complicated! ;)
 
I find it a bit strange that such basic services cost that much money...in the knife world, we almost expect makers to go out of their way to repair/resharpen/whatever their knives free of charge, even more inexpensive production models.
Most makers live up to what we expect.

IMO the price tag of a really expensive watch, like a Rolex or the like, should cover basic maintenance stuff.

Just my $0.02.
 
Originally posted by Quiet Storm
I find it a bit strange that such basic services cost that much money...in the knife world, we almost expect makers to go out of their way to repair/resharpen/whatever their knives free of charge, even more inexpensive production models.
Most makers live up to what we expect.

IMO the price tag of a really expensive watch, like a Rolex or the like, should cover basic maintenance stuff.

Just my $0.02.

I don't find it strange at all. I don't expect my car dealer to fix my car(s) for free either. A watch is a very complex mechanism requiring a lot of finesse to work on. I've done some watch repair work and it gets on your nerves (literally). Hunched down, looking through a loupe, and working with tools with tips the size of a thick hair. Suddenly the phone rings and a piece you had in your hand flicks across the room. Trust me it's quite nerve wracking work, and I wouldn't put it upon anybody to do it for free.

I've sharped knives too... there is just no comparison. I am sooo glad I don't make my living from repairing watches-- I will gladly pay someone else to get the ulcer and go blind.

For what it's worth there are various levels of watch service. A basic CLA (cleaning, lubrication and adjustment) is like a car tune-up. It shouldn't cost too much. However, when parts are worn or broken that's when repairs get expensive. Think cars again... what does it cost when you need new brake pads, cv boots, a clutch, or a head gasket installed? It all depends on the complexity, ranging from your basic oil change to a complete engine rebuild. Cars and watches-- my moneypits.
 
Originally posted by Quiet Storm
I find it a bit strange that such basic services cost that much money...in the knife world, we almost expect makers to go out of their way to repair/resharpen/whatever their knives free of charge, even more inexpensive production models.
Most makers live up to what we expect.

IMO the price tag of a really expensive watch, like a Rolex or the like, should cover basic maintenance stuff.

Just my $0.02.

I don't find it strange at all. I don't expect my car dealer to fix my car(s) for free either. A watch is a very complex mechanism requiring a lot of finesse to work on. I've done some watch repair work and it gets on your nerves (literally). Hunched down, looking through a loupe, and working with tools with tips the size of a thick hair. Suddenly the phone rings and a piece you had in your hand flicks across the room. Trust me it's quite nerve wracking work, and I wouldn't put it upon anybody to do it for free.

I've sharped knives too... there is just no comparison. I am sooo glad I don't make my living from repairing watches-- I will gladly pay someone else to get the ulcer and go blind.

For what it's worth there are various levels of watch service. A basic CLA (cleaning, lubrication and adjustment) is like a car tune-up. It shouldn't cost too much. However, when parts are worn or broken that's when repairs get expensive. Think cars again... what does it cost when you need new brake pads, cv boots, a clutch, or a head gasket installed? It all depends on the complexity, ranging from your basic oil change to a complete engine rebuild. Cars and watches-- my moneypits.
 
If I were to buy a Rolls Royce (which would be the automobile equivalent to a Rolex, we're not talking about G-Shocks here) I would kinda expect to have regular maintenance done for free on it.
 
Originally posted by Quiet Storm
If I were to buy a Rolls Royce (which would be the automobile equivalent to a Rolex, we're not talking about G-Shocks here) I would kinda expect to have regular maintenance done for free on it.

I don't think a Rolex is anywhere near the equivalent to a Rolls Royce. However, you're talking several issues here. How long should this period be? For the life of the watch? 40, 50, 60 years? I have a Rolex that is 35 years old and another one that is 30 years old. Should I be able to just send them the watch and expect them to be serviced for free? Remember that these cost only about $200 brand new in the 1960's.

Next, there is the issue of markets. Many people trying to save a buck will buy grey market watches-- meant for sale to some other country, and then bring them to the USA. They then expect the US service center to service a watch that they didn't import. In other words-- one is asking someone to service something that they are not even responsible for selling.

Rolex is a few tiers down from Rolls Royce... maybe BMW or so. Last I heard BMW doesn't service their cars for free. Far from it.
 
I have some interest in this as I am lusting after an Omega, I will probably never be able to afford. I would hope that any regularly required maintence would be inexpensive to have done by whoever the manufacturer recommends, or should I say the "officail mainence"?

Either way, if it something that needs to be done every year, or every few years I feel it should be affordable. I would even expect at least the first service to be complimentary if you buy the watch from an authorized dealer. As far as broken or worn out parts, well that's on us to pay for. As long as there is no defect, why should the maker be held responsible?

The way I look at it not everyone with a Rolex or similiar class watch has money to throw away. I would tend to think that many owners of high ened watches worked hard and saved to have that watch. Making the required services to expensive for this group of customers to afford would be rather poor business.

I just hope that when I do get together enough money for my Omega, the service charges won't make me regret buying it. For me, at the moment anyway, $5.15 an hour * 30 hours a week * 4 weeks a month is roughly $600 a month after taxes(actually slightly less). Then take out my bills and I am left with roughly $100 a month for my work, if I am lucky. This is my real encouragment to finish college, who the heck thinks you can live on this money? BTW, my bills don't include rent or food, just car bills, and phone bill. If they seriously think it is possible to live in NYC making $5.15 an hour, I would like to see someone try.
 
Rolex is a few tiers down from Rolls Royce... maybe BMW or so. Last I heard BMW doesn't service their cars for free. Far from it.

Actually the commercial running here in So.Cal is that all maintanance on BMW's is free for the life of the car. Yes, it's included in the price says the guy on the radio.
 
Originally posted by sygyzy
Actually the commercial running here in So.Cal is that all maintanance on BMW's is free for the life of the car. Yes, it's included in the price says the guy on the radio.

Really? I'll have to check that out... All maintenance, i.e. broken parts or just routine maintenance like oil and filter changes?
 
Everything because "BMW's are built so well they [the company] doesn't have to worry about paying for maintenance"
 
IIRC (but don't quote me on that) at least in Germany BMW offers free standard services...and I wouldn't expect them or Rolex to replace an abused, destroyed car/watch.
 
Down this way I understand that Audi also throws in the basic services--meaning essentially oil changes--as part of the price, but you know that it's built into the price of the car, much like the 60K warranty; it's part of the reason an Audi is more expensive than, say, a Toyota Avalon with a 3/36 warranty.

My analogy is that the service work on a watch like that is kinda similar to tires and oil on a car; stuff that is going to wear no matter what, and there's a reasonable expectation that you'll need to replace them every so often.
 
Automatic watches have hundreds of moving parts that need oiling. Overtime, certain gears may wear out.

If you let the watch wind up and down fully, overtime the coil spring will lose tension and fail to keep the watch accurate.

The rule of thumb for most rolex's and omegas is routine maintenance every 1 to 3 years. The entire movement should be replaced every 5 or 10 years, depending on the movement type.

Thus, expensive watches are the toys of those who can afford the upkeep. They are in the same category as Armani suits and John Lobb shoes. They are not ridiculusly expensive that one cannot eventually buy them, but the associated maintenance is high enough to up the total cost of ownership to an unacceptable level.

That said, I want an Omega America's Cup Seamaster Chrono, but I am not going to buy such a thing until I up the montly cashflow quite a bit.
 
Originally posted by sygyzy
Actually the commercial running here in So.Cal is that all maintanance on BMW's is free for the life of the car. Yes, it's included in the price says the guy on the radio.

That's strictly oil/filters/top off fluids. Your basic Jiffy Lube-type service. Even with that take a look at the service interval. IIRC it's at least every 10K miles. Granted it's synthetic oil but I would never go that long between changes.
 
Originally posted by Sundsvall The rule of thumb for most rolex's and omegas is routine maintenance every 1 to 3 years. The entire movement should be replaced every 5 or 10 years, depending on the movement type.



It is not necessary to service a watch every year (unless you are diving with it and you just want to make sure it is water resistant).

Every 3 to 5 years is a more realistic figure, and there is absolutely no reason to replace the whole movement every 5 to 10 years as you say. On some of my watches, the very movement is priceless and cannot be replaced. On my Jaeger LeCoultre, the 488 sbr movement is what makes the watch valuable, and this movement on my watch is still going strong 50 years later. Similarily, my Lange & Sohne B-Uhr has an absolutely immaculate (and irreplaceable 60 year old movement.) Same with Rolex---- the early Rolex movements are irreplaceable, and I would replace them even if it were possible. What's the point in owning a vintage watch if the insides are brand new?

To me that would be like buying a vintage Bugatti and putting in a new Chevy engine because Bugatti engines were no longer available.
 
I think it's kind of odd that people justify free service by saying "it's built into the cost of the product." Isn't that a given? I mean even your $20 headphones with a 1 year warranty has the cost of replacement or repair built into the cost.

The problem is you and I will never know the true cost of service. When does the line end? You say Audis are expensive because they take care of oil changes for you. Last time I checked oil changes are like $15 bucks. So how many do they expect you to have over the lifetime of the care? Not enough to cover the markup I'm sure. Or is it? Would an Audi cost $200 less witout lifetime service or $20,000?

Then we have Hyundai. Yes, that little Korean car manufacturer that has probably one of the longest warranties anyone has seen. 10 years 100,000 miles and 5 years 60,000 miles. How much are their cars? Their sporty Tiburon V6 is about 20k out the door.
 
Originally posted by sygyzy
I think it's kind of odd that people justify free service by saying "it's built into the cost of the product." Isn't that a given? I mean even your $20 headphones with a 1 year warranty has the cost of replacement or repair built into the cost.

The problem is you and I will never know the true cost of service. When does the line end? You say Audis are expensive because they take care of oil changes for you. Last time I checked oil changes are like $15 bucks. So how many do they expect you to have over the lifetime of the care? Not enough to cover the markup I'm sure. Or is it? Would an Audi cost $200 less witout lifetime service or $20,000?

Then we have Hyundai. Yes, that little Korean car manufacturer that has probably one of the longest warranties anyone has seen. 10 years 100,000 miles and 5 years 60,000 miles. How much are their cars? Their sporty Tiburon V6 is about 20k out the door.

This whole free service issue brings up a nefarious practice of Rolex and some other watch companies. Now let's assume for a moment that watch companies decide to include free service (I am vehemently against that idea-- and I have over 100 mechanical watches).

At some point, a watch company will introduce a "life-span" and refuse to service any watches older than X years. Rolex already does this in essence. They will not service older Rolex watches. In fact, if you have a Rolex that is in a transition year (half way between modern and vintage), Rolex will unceremoniously pull off every old part and replace it with brand new parts. What this does is ruin the value of an otherwise very collectible piece.

I have a friend who sent a Military Submariner to Rolex. A genuine military Sub is worth $10,000. Rolex, who cares nothing of provenance, replaced the military dial and military hands with a civilian dial and hands. They cut off the fixed bars and added spring bars. What my friend got back was a civilian Submariner worth maybe $2,000 on a good day.

Seiko is another company that has an established planned obsolescence policy. Just try and have a nice vintage Seiko from the 1960s or 1970s serviced by Seiko. They state in their literature that parts are only guaranteed to be in stock for 7 years during the life of a new Seiko model.

These are possible issues that will crop up if customers start demanding a free service policy. At some point it will not be cost effective for a company to continue to service any particular watch, so like Seiko and Rolex, they will devise ways to force you to buy a new one. I for one happen to like my vintage Rolex watches. I really don't care that Rolex will no longer service them. I wouldn't send any of my Rolex to Rolex anyways. And that's a whole 'nother issue.
 
Originally posted by BobHWD
I have a friend who sent a Military Submariner to Rolex. A genuine military Sub is worth $10,000. Rolex, who cares nothing of provenance, replaced the military dial and military hands with a civilian dial and hands. They cut off the fixed bars and added spring bars. What my friend got back was a civilian Submariner worth maybe $2,000 on a good day.

And he didn't complain and demand compensation?
 
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