Setting up a knife shop

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Mar 20, 2019
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Im just getting into knife making and was looking for advice on setting up a knife shop. My main way of making knives will be stock removal. I was looking for recommendations on angle grinders to use and a mid level forge for heat treating. To temper i was going to use a toaster oven. I already have a small belt sander, files, and drill press. Any help is very much appreciated, thank you!
 
Just go and make a knife. Arrange your shop like you see fit in the process, then make more knives and adjust.
One tip, workbenches at different hights
 
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Angle grinders will work, save up for a dedicated grinder 2x72 for future. I use my kitchen oven for tempering, no wife lol, it is a JennAir that keeps temp perfectly stable. I made my mini forge with parts from Atlas on his site, easy to do if you can weld. Atlas has a forge for knife-making and is perfect, Atlas mini-forge and affordable for most folks. This forge is perfect for 1084 or similar knife steel where temps are basically by site or magnet.
I started out building my own 2x72 with parts from Ameribrade. Second, I built the Atlas mini forge with their parts for heat treating, could not wait for turn-around sending out during pandemic. Important, use 1084 for this, think o-1 and a few others are simple. 3rd, I made jigs, these are easy to make with internet research, I like D Comeau custom knives for research, just a great person all around and free.
I found that making tools for knife-making is just as fun, I am retired and have to budget. I only do stock removal for now.
 
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Sell everything you can and buy a Evenheat furnace (or similar) and learn to heat treat. That way you won’t be limited to simple steels and you’ll have the advantage of a better heat treat. Lots of new knife makers try to get by with less but it’s not worth it.

Hoss
 
Plan a 30X40 shop with $100,000 in tools. Draw a layout and list everything you think will make the ultimate workshop. Tools, supplies, equipment, etc.

Then come down to reality and start deciding which of those tools you can afford, how much space you will actually have to work in, and what tools you have to have and what tools are optional.

The short list for making knives is:
Belt grinder:
2X72 is far and away the best choice. You can start with a basci unit and improve it as you can afford. Look at the Reeder grinder basic chassis and accessories as a good way to grow a grinder. Starting with a VFD motor/controller is a wise decision if you can afford the extra dollars. There is an excellent ebay seller who sells turn-key motor/VFD packages wired and ready to bolt on the grinder.

HT oven:
A proper HT oven is the best way to do HT. It will allow many metallurgical procedures from hardening to annealing to be dome easily and properly. Again, it is a bit costly in the initial purchase, but the benefits are well worth the cost. They last a very long time.

Forge:
You DON'T need to forge to make knives. In fact, it is probably best to start out not forging and learn stock removal first.
A simple forge will HT simple carbon steels. It takes some practice and skill to use one effectively, though.

Workbench:
A solid proper height bench can be made from 2X4s and 2X6s. A smooth top is nice, but not necessary.

Surface plate:
This is often overlooked and one of the low-cost things to buy. Woodcraft sells 8X11 granite surface plates at less than $20. A section of granite countertop, or a piece of heavy glass tabletop will also work in a pinch. Use this to place a sheet of sandpaper on (spray the surface with water to make the paper stay in place easier) and you can flat sand a blade to a very precise flatness.

Basic hand tools:
FILES - get several sizes and cuts of files to do the rough removal. Nicholson Magicut are wonderful knifemaking file. Aet of small needle files is also useful.
Clamps, a few hammers, etc.

Cutting tools:
A metal cutting bandsaw is a good tool to have. A Porta-Band saw (Milwaukee is a great brand) with a SWAG Table (homemade is fine) will do for most all tasks. A HIgh-Tension hacksaw frame and good Lenox or similar bi-metal blades will also work fine ... for about $30.

Supplies:
Sandpaper in grits from 100 to 2500. Use good grade paper. Rhynowet and other brands are regularly discussed here in the forums. Get teen sheets of each grit in waterproof paper type. You will use a lot of sandpaper. Same with grinder belts. You will need plenty.

Steel:
Don't play the steel of the day game. Pick a steel and use only that steel for a good year before jumping around. 1080 is an excellent choice if you are using a forge to do HT. Magnacut is great if you have a HT oven.

Misc nice to have things:
Welder - a wire welder or stick welder comes in handy.
Torch - a good plumbers torch is handy, a small Ox-Acetyl rig is alos useful. An old plumbers Prest-o-lite bottle and torch can often be found really cheap.

LIGHTS:
You need lots of good light in the shop.4' long LED 5500-6500K lamps are best.
 
Misc nice to have things:
A variety of vice grips and/or c-clamps in various sizes. Small (2-3") C-clamps are useful for holding your work, and large (6-9") C-clamps are good for securing tools (grinders, buffers, etc) to your workbench if your space is limited preventing dedicated floor space for each tool.

Also, a height gauge/scribe to go with the granite surface plate. These run about $75 and it would be on my must have list.
 
A variety of vice grips and/or c-clamps in various sizes. Small (2-3") C-clamps are useful for holding your work, and large (6-9") C-clamps are good for securing tools (grinders, buffers, etc) to your workbench if your space is limited preventing dedicated floor space for each tool.

Also, a height gauge/scribe to go with the granite surface plate. These run about $75 and it would be on my must have list.
I'm a big fan of 1" and 2" Kant Twist clamps for small work holding tasks. I have a handful of each and use them constantly.

A small to medium sized bench vise is invaluable for all kind of tasks. You can make a quick blade hand sanding jig that clamps into the vise out of scrap wood and makes work holding much easier.

Some blue Dykem is great for marking up material, scribing lines, etc but you can get away with a sharpie too, especially for smaller projects.

Maybe the best $20 you can spend is a cheap pair of calipers. Measure everything and you'll be able work to a much tighter tolerance than if you're just eyeballing it all.

The last one I'll add is QUALITY dill bits. The cheap ones sold at Home Depot are not going to perform very well for very long on high carbon steels, even when annealed and soft. Quality American or European made high speed steel (HSS) or cobalt (M35/M42) drills are what you want. (Avoid carbide drills unless you know you need them; they're brittle, expensive, and unnecessary if you're drilling before heat treating.) Pick up a packet of them in the sizes you plan to use frequently; don't get scared off by the cost of a full index, you'll likely never use the larger (more expensive) sizes knife making. McMaster sells quality drills individually in every size and many good hardware stores will sell them too. Brands I like include Cle-Line, Cleveland, Chicago-Latrobe, Triumph, Precision Twist Drill, Norseman, Viking, Hertel, and Guhring.
 
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