several questions about FB knives

Taja

Taja

Joined
Feb 17, 2014
Messages
360
What the difference between bushcrafter and bushcrafter bear paw ( pictures also appreciated)?

Is any other model come is basic and bear paw variant?

There was recently the thread when somebody was complaining about the leather sheath is colored his FB knife handle. there were many good advices about leather sheath maintenance. I tried to find it the other day and could not is anybody remember and could give a link?

which type of handle is not smooth (more rough surface that does not slide in wet hands)?
I have Shank with OD Camo micarta, and also saw a picture of sandblasted Black micarta in fleamarket, anything else?

is shadetree burlap is smooth or rough? is any other burlap is smooth or rough?

what the difference between shadetree burlap vs harribone burlap ***burlap (Evergreen burlap/sapphire burlap and so on)?

thanks
 
The Bear Paw really isn't a variant of the Bushcrafter...it would be more akin to a Bushcraft variant of the Woodchuck. It's just with Andy's background in the woods and as a scout, most of his knives come from a bushcraft perspective with different blade profiles to suit different needs. The original Bushcrafter was designed based on the shape of the Boy Scout knife in a larger package with a much more ergonomic handle.

Leather changing handle color can happen two ways. usually it is just unfinished leather on the inside of the sheath that removes the moisture from the surface of the handle it has the tightest contact with. Wet dye can be another factor, but I have never seen that issue with any of the sheath makers that frequent this forum and I have bought sheaths from three of them, Heber, Bud, and Rick.

In my experiences any phenolic...micarta, g10, burlap micarta, can be made smooth or rough, depending on the level of polish or bead blast.

Those names for the burlap are due to the color patterns produced.
 
I'm new to Fiddlebacks, but I've had some of the same questions you are asking. Here's what I've learned so far:

BUSHCRAFTER AND BEAR PAW ---- The Bushcrafter has a drop point blade, like the Hiking Buddy, while the Bear Paw has a spear point blade, like the Kephart. (The Woodchuck, I believe, has a sheepsfoot blade.) The Bear Paw has a longer handle, 5 inches vs. about 4.5 or so for the Bushcrafter. In addition, the top butt end of the Bushcrafter handle is rounded, like a bigger version of a Hiking Buddy or Bushraptor. In my hand, that rounding on the Bushcrafter reduces the effective length of the handle by another half inch or so, making the butt of the handle dig into the big muscle at the base of my thumb. By contrast, the top edge of the Bear Paw handle carries all the way to the end without any extra rounding. In my hand, that means that the Bear Paw's effective length is an inch or so longer than that of the Bushcrafter. For reference, my hand span is 9.5 inches (tip of pinkie to tip of thumb). Incidentally, the Hiking Buddy/Bushraptor handle fits my hand great; its shorter length means it stops before it reaches the big muscle at the base of the thumb. Here's a link to some excellent pictures of the Bushcrafter in a hand. I don't know of any photos of a Bear Paw in someone's hand. Anybody out there have some?

HANDLE MATERIALS ---- Here I'm too far down the learning curve to help much, but so far, for me at least, the magic of Andy Roy ergonomics makes handle material less significant for safe holding than I had expected. And that's even with an old injury that left only the pinkie on my right hand with full strength and sense of touch. That said, here's how I'd rank grippiness so far: beaded canvas micarta, herringbone burlap when wet (for some mysterious reason, the one I held got grippier when wet), curly maple, wenge, blackwood, and smooth micarta canvas. The Bear Paw was a beautiful, smooth blackwood, yet it fit securely in my hand like a trout with all the fight gone out of it.
 
I forgot to include the link to Bushcrafter photos: bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1170507-Models-Tang-Types-Steel-Thicknesses-amp-Weights
 
mistwalker said:
The Bear Paw really isn't a variant of the Bushcrafter...it would be more akin to a Bushcraft variant of the Woodchuck. It's just with Andy's background in the woods and as a scout, most of his knives come from a bushcraft perspective with different blade profiles to suit different needs. The original Bushcrafter was designed based on the shape of the Boy Scout knife in a larger package with a much more ergonomic handle.

Leather changing handle color can happen two ways. usually it is just unfinished leather on the inside of the sheath that removes the moisture from the surface of the handle it has the tightest contact with. Wet dye can be another factor, but I have never seen that issue with any of the sheath makers that frequent this forum and I have bought sheaths from three of them, Heber, Bud, and Rick.

In my experiences any phenolic...micarta, g10, burlap micarta, can be made smooth or rough, depending on the level of polish or bead blast.

Those names for the burlap are due to the color patterns produced.
Click to expand...

What's the best way to minimize that moisture/oil loss from the handle? A Beeswax rubdown? I used a lot of mineral oil on my Bark River and eventually it darkened the ironwood burl considerably. I'd rather the Eucalyptus not darken much more than it's at right now.
 
necrolicious said:
What's the best way to minimize that moisture/oil loss from the handle? A Beeswax rubdown? I used a lot of mineral oil on my Bark River and eventually it darkened the ironwood burl considerably. I'd rather the Eucalyptus not darken much more than it's at right now.
Click to expand...

Might give Ren Wax a look
 
necrolicious said:
Thank you Imrahil. That stuff looks like it would be perfect. It doesn't look like it has any drawbacks either.
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No worries, it's what goes on all my blades now. I even use it to clean Micarta and Wood handles, helps to protect them as well.
 
To add some more info to the already good stuff that's here:

The reason for Mist's comparison of the Bear Paw to the Woodchuck is that the Bear Paw is basically a Woodchuck with a Spear Point instead of a modified sheepsfoot. The handles are basically the same. The Woodchuck came first, and then the Bear Paw (sometimes called the Big Paw initially) came out as a modification of it.

Here is a comparison of the Bear Paw and Woodchuck:

IMG_4040_zps6fde4fde.jpg~original


More info about the Bear Paw can be found in my review here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...w-Bushcrafter-size-comparison-and-mini-review

While the Woodchuck review is here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...k-love-A-comparison-of-9-quot-OAL-Fiddlebacks

The Bear Paw and the Bushcrafter serve similar duties (they fall into Andy's Bushcrafting blades) but the approach couldn't be different. The Bushcrafter has a drop point and is the least pointy of all of Andy's knives. He described it as:

non threatening Boy Scout friendly kind of drop point fixed blade knife. It has a stout point for drilling and is a great knife for just about any outdoor task.
Click to expand...

It's handle is similar in shape to the Hiking Buddy family and the Arete. Nice rounded butt and a good swell in the middle.

The Bear Paw is very pointy spear point and belongs in the Karda, Kephart, Woodsman family as far as blade shape goes. The handle is nice and high and has a squared off pommel. It's meant for guys with bigger hands that wanted something a little fuller (like me).

Here's a crude comparison pic in bad light between a Bushcrafter and Bear Paw:




Regarding the handle material, the Burlaps seems to have the most grip as they come from the forge as there tends to be little voids here and there. The bead blasted handles are pretty grippy as well. To me though, the shape of the handle seems to be more important than the material on it.

For maintaining the handles and the steel, I pretty much stick with Mineral Oil. I am not familiar with Ren Wax. Depending on your intended use, I'd be sure anything that you use is food safe.
 
About the sheath maintainance
There was a nice tread 2-4 weeks ago
And several people were given advices how to maintain a sheath, that it will be not becoming a "hard" as well as does not effect handle color
I remember Allen was writing how he maintain the sheath including emmersing with something and putting in microwave ( and some other steps)
Some other people was given advices as well

I thought I copy and save content but could not find it in my comp
As well as I tried to find the thread itself and could not


That was my question if somebody remember this thread and find the link
I want to try this microwave thing it sounds spectacular:)
 
Taja said:
There was recently the thread when somebody was complaining about the leather sheath is colored his FB knife handle. there were many good advices about leather sheath maintenance. I tried to find it the other day and could not is anybody remember and could give a link?
Click to expand...

mistwalker said:
Leather changing handle color can happen two ways. usually it is just unfinished leather on the inside of the sheath that removes the moisture from the surface of the handle it has the tightest contact with. Wet dye can be another factor, but I have never seen that issue with any of the sheath makers that frequent this forum and I have bought sheaths from three of them, Heber, Bud, and Rick.
Click to expand...


I recently had a saddening experience with a Rick Lowe sheath, but this is the first time I mention it in the forum so I'm not the poster Taja is referring too. I would like to find that post as well though, perhaps there's a solution for me in there as well.

I got a new RLO pocket sheath last week that left some nasty discolorations on the beautiful buckeye burl handle scales of my Hiking Buddy. Apparently there was still some dried paint left in the sheath when I got it.

Knife before Rick's sheath:

15897626672_73b238ea14_b.jpg


Knife after Rick's sheath.

15949359298_a0304720f1_b.jpg


I got a few smaller stains on my Bushboot as well from trying on the sheath, but the color of the paint sort of matches those scales so I'm less concerned about that one.

But this Hiking Buddy is a pretty special knife to me and I'm pretty bummed about it. What bugs me the most is that Rick didn't even said he was sorry this happened, let alone offer to make it right somehow. I was told to get some acetone to remove the stains with & when that didn't work that was it. I'm hoping Andy has some tips on how to get it off when he gets back to me in the new year because I really don't want to send it back to the US for a spa-treatment.
 
I have a Hunter with regular (not wide) weave coffee bag burlap handles. I was cleaning it after use the other day and I was suprised how grippy the handles felt when wet.
 
Marcel, I stand behind my work and strive for the best customer service I can provide. I think it best to continue this off line via private emails. Any perceived lack of response yesterday was due to having a life on Sunday outside leather and knives.
 
Hang in there Marcel, this is common with all sheathes , and is a byproduct of moisture transfer between the leather and the organic scale materials. I have remedied such issues in the past with the following method:

1. Apply >70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol to the stained area (I like 90%, or you can use mineral spirits)

2. Using a coarse terry cloth rag, "scrub" the affected area, you will quickly notice the dye being removed from the scales and see it transferring to the cloth.

3. Repeat as necessary; once complete, wash the knife thoroughly and dry it.

4. If all stains are removed, apply mineral oil liberally, let sit, and wipe away

You should be good as new. I have done this on dye stained lighter woods, burls, and even white paper micarta and the results were excellent. And don't worry, Rick stands behind his work 100%; I'm sure he'll take good care of you either way.
 
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necrolicious said:
What's the best way to minimize that moisture/oil loss from the handle? A Beeswax rubdown? I used a lot of mineral oil on my Bark River and eventually it darkened the ironwood burl considerably. I'd rather the Eucalyptus not darken much more than it's at right now.
Click to expand...

As other folks already mentioned, wax is a great way to protect the handles. I also really like Badger Balm. I carry this in my pack all the time and have used it for everything. Aside from chapped lips it works great to waterproof leather shoes & sheaths, treat handles and blades (thin coat), pack open wounds in the wilderness, etc, etc.

Vayu said:
Ironwood darkens naturally over time, like the human soul.
Click to expand...

:D

NUTRAMAC said:
only if you let them;)
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:thumbup:


Taja - for a while we were sandblasting the micarta handles. This gave them a much more textured feel and better grip in bad weather, but not necessarily as pretty to look at. Currently we are hand sanding all the handles, including the micartas.
 
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