Sfa slayer ???

Hickory n steel · Feb 11, 2016

Hi ! I'm new here so I don't know if it's already been done on here, but I came up with an idea that I think would blow a small forest axe out of the water. I call my idea the U.B.A ( utility bush axe ) The idea is to take a vintage riggers axe head ( when I can find one, at a flea or yard sale because I don't use eBay ) hopefully one with convex cheeks, and hang it on a nice slim 20 inch fawns foot handle ( either made myself or reshaping a boy's axe handle ) nobody uses a 20in hammer, so there's no problem choking up to where the handle is straight. I like the idea because the standard weight is 28oz - 1 3/4lbs about the same as a sfa, but you'd get a broader bit that's about as thin plus you'd get convex cheeks which the gb doesn't have, an actual hammer for a poll, and a nail/tent stake puller. ( not to mention that you would spend a lot less than a GB , cause I won't pay a premium for quality that used to be common to every hardware store and I don't care for the way they look ) no offense to any Swedish axe fans. so has anyone else done this before ? And if so how's it work out? Last time I went to the roseville swap meet all I found were estwings which obviously won't work, plus I don't like non natural handles

cityofthesouth · Feb 11, 2016

I'd wager it's been done before but that shouldn't stop you.

Hacked · Feb 11, 2016

Honestly I think you'd just be better off with a high quality vintage hatchet head. Not as easy to find as a nice boys axe or Full sized but for the work you'd be doing I believe it would suit the needs better. I just hafted a Kelly Woodslasher hatchet on a house axe handle. Came out at 18" all said and done. Just waiting for some glue to dry as I cracked the swell setting the head the final time

Next one I'm going to aim for 22" as CAC axe used to offer a camp axe in that size. I'm curious to try it out.

Hickory n steel · Feb 11, 2016

You don't think it'd be better to have a good and thin bit and an actual hammer ?

Hickory n steel · Feb 11, 2016

I have a fairly decent vintage Collins homestead Michigan pattern 3.5lb that my grandmother gave me, but it's currently more axe than I need ( though I don't really have a dire need for any axe ) and remains waxed and unhung. I know that in my area ( northern California ) they should be fairly common since so many framers around here preferred them ( before the California framing hammer came about ) so I just need to find one.

tobiism · Feb 11, 2016

I think it's a great idea, and you should build whatever you want! Have you seen hardcore hammers website?https://www.hardcorehammers.com/product/zombie-apocalypse-2-0/

Hickory n steel · Feb 11, 2016

Not sure about the zombie one, but knowing that they have their tools contracted out. They obviously just chopped off a Vaughan half hatchet and upped the price. I also think they made it ugly by butchering it so much. I want the full weight and full sized hammer head ( not to mention wanting the patina and convex cheeks found on a vintage axe ) now if they used a riggers axe and not a half hatchet and didn't butcher the head all up, then I might have some Interest. But I could easily make it myself for around the same price ( if I wanted to settle for a non vintage Vaughn off the hardware shelf ) because Vaughn has the hatchet for 35$ and I can get a handle for dirt cheap at a local store I shop at. And it's more fun to make things yourself.

BG_Farmer · Feb 12, 2016

I have a modern Plumb rigging hatchet that seems pretty good, and the handle is just a couple inches shorter than you are looking at -- 18", I think, but no convex cheeks (I don't care). I think the best for utility in the woods would be a claw hatchet on a 20" straight handle. There's no beating GFB for mystical magical delight for most though. They sharpen them at the factory so people who can't profile and sharpen an axe can split aka process wood for their chimneas and harvest Christmas trees without learning anything; well worth the cost to many

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Hickory n steel · Feb 12, 2016

The reason that I'd want a longer ( maybe even around 22" ) curved handle other than preference is because the axe would be the primary tool,and to make into more of a small axe than just a long hatchet, plus I want it to be different and to look more like it belongs in the woods than on a tool belt ( though I don't know when it'd ever make it there

) By the way I've never heard of a claw hatchet, are you referring to a fireman's axe style ? Or some sort of hatchet with hammer claws ?

Hickory n steel · Feb 12, 2016

I just realized that your probably talking about a tommy axe.

Hacked · Feb 12, 2016

Hickory n steel said:
You don't think it'd be better to have a good and thin bit and an actual hammer ?

All the rigging axes I've come by vintage or not do not have a high centerline or as thin of a bit as some of my hatchets do. The latter of which can be fixed relatively easily.

I say go for it, worst case you end up with an interesting tool. Be sure to post up when is done. I'm already on the hunt for a hatchet to put a 22" handle on

cityofthesouth · Feb 12, 2016

Hacked said:
All the rigging axes I've come by vintage or not do not have a high centerline...

This is a good point. Even the modern ones you see in hardware stores are actually dead ringers for the vintage ones. Flat cheeks.

tobiism · Feb 12, 2016

Hickory n steel said:
Not sure about the zombie one, but knowing that they have their tools contracted out. They obviously just chopped off a Vaughan half hatchet and upped the price. I also think they made it ugly by butchering it so much. I want the full weight and full sized hammer head ( not to mention wanting the patina and convex cheeks found on a vintage axe ) now if they used a riggers axe and not a half hatchet and didn't butcher the head all up, then I might have some Interest. But I could easily make it myself for around the same price ( if I wanted to settle for a non vintage Vaughn off the hardware shelf ) because Vaughn has the hatchet for 35$ and I can get a handle for dirt cheap at a local store I shop at. And it's more fun to make things yourself.

Wasn't suggesting you buy it, just wasn't sure if you'd seen them before.

Hickory n steel · Feb 12, 2016

tobiism said:
Wasn't suggesting you buy it, just wasn't sure if you'd seen them before.

I know, but I just had to say it

, because they obviously are hacked up Vaughan hatchets. They are different ( and sorta cool because of that ) on a side note I'm sure I can live without the convex cheeks, but most riggers axes I've seen had fairly thin bits so that's something I'm sure I can find ( I'd definitely want it to be thinner than a plumb scout hatchet, which always seem fairly thick to me ) so as long as I can find a vintage head. ( if you guys are right about not commonly seeing them with convex cheeks ) I'll probably just go for the first one I find.

RoosterMod · Feb 13, 2016

Here is a modified WMQ, Plumb and a True Temper Dynamic on 18" vintage style riggers handles...

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Hickory n steel · Feb 13, 2016

RoosterMod said:
Here is a modified WMQ, Plumb and a True Temper Dynamic on 18" vintage style riggers handles...

[/URL][/IMG]

I actually like what you did there on those first and second "large hatchets" :thumbup: now I really want to find me one even more ( if still gonna leave the head as is and just hang it as a small axe around a 22" curved handle ) but seeing your project makes me anxious to start one myself

I could always hang my old Collins homestead Michigan feller, but I'm just gonna save it till I have a need for a 3.5er

Hacked · Feb 13, 2016

I have a Plumb BSA hatchet, the profile is definitely thicker than my Kelly which has the best profile of the hatchets I own.

Don't take this the wrong why but I get the feeling when a lot of folks talk about thinness of the bit they are actually talking about the cheeks of the axe rather than the bit itself. I find thin cheeks such as the ones on a Gransfors Bruks matter less than a good bit profile. I have an old hatchet that is rather chunky but whomever previously owned it kept an excellent profile on the bit and so it is still a great hatchet, and my favorite for carving.

Hickory n steel · Feb 14, 2016

Hacked said:
I have a Plumb BSA hatchet, the profile is definitely thicker than my Kelly which has the best profile of the hatchets I own.

Don't take this the wrong why but I get the feeling when a lot of folks talk about thinness of the bit they are actually talking about the cheeks of the axe rather than the bit itself. I find thin cheeks such as the ones on a Gransfors Bruks matter less than a good bit profile. I have an old hatchet that is rather chunky but whomever previously owned it kept an excellent profile on the bit and so it is still a great hatchet, and my favorite for carving.

No your absolutely right ! But the grandsfors axes ( which I think are too ugly to cost what they do ) do seem to bite really deep/chop really well for their size, ( from what I see in videos ) and I think that the riggers axe being a little thicker would probably do the same but split better, and have added utility.

Hacked · Feb 14, 2016

Hickory n steel said:
No your absolutely right ! But the grandsfors axes ( which I think are too ugly to cost what they do ) do seem to bite really deep/chop really well for their size, ( from what I see in videos ) and I think that the riggers axe being a little thicker would probably do the same but split better, and have added utility.

Honestly having finally had the chance to handle a GB recently I don't think the bit or cheeks are as thin as folks make them out to be. Some of my vintage axes are thinner up until the ramp where they tend to have a smoother transition from cheek to eye making them far better splitters than Gransfors Bruks axes. I also have axes with thinner bits than the GB that I had a chance to use. You can see below a comparison shot for the GB Mini profile vs some of my comparable hatchets.

I think the reason folks rant and rave about how GBs perform is because they come sharp, and well profiled from the factory. Compared to the hardware store axes or axes with blunt grinder wheel edges most of us grew up with they are definitely impressive. That said I have some American made axes that I have no doubt would outperform a GB axe by no short stretch.

Hickory n steel · Feb 14, 2016

Hacked said:
Honestly having finally had the chance to handle a GB recently I don't think the bit or cheeks are as thin as folks make them out to be. Some of my vintage axes are thinner up until the ramp where they tend to have a smoother transition from cheek to eye making them far better splitters than Gransfors Bruks axes. I also have axes with thinner bits than the GB that I had a chance to use. You can see below a comparison shot for the GB Mini profile vs some of my comparable hatchets.

I think the reason folks rant and rave about how GBs perform is because they come sharp, and well profiled from the factory. Compared to the hardware store axes or axes with blunt grinder wheel edges most of us grew up with they are definitely impressive. That said I have some American made axes that I have no doubt would outperform a GB axe by no short stretch.

What the hell is a GB ??? :barf::barf: I've never heard of them before

are they supposed to be really good or something special ??

( another good reason why I think they're over hyped and over priced, not to mention again they're ugly )