Sando
Knife Maker
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2002
- Messages
- 1,148
I don't know about you guys, but any vanadium steel is a nightmare to finish. It takes me forever, no matter what method.
So I tried using my SGA (surface grinding attachment) to do the flats, before I grind the bevels. I've gotten good enough with it, that I'm selling knives with that finish. Saves me a ton of time and I can pass a savings on.
So, I thought I'd pass on my recipe:
* Flatten everything with an A300 Trizact (green gator) belt
* Then A160 Trizact
* Then A65 Trizact
* 220 grit cork belt loaded with coarse compound (an A40 belt works too, but I found I liked the cork finish better)
* Medium scotch-brite belt
Tip #1 - in between each belt, cover the blade with a Sharpe and let it dry. Grind until the black is gone, and then a little more.
Tip #2 - move the belt left and right a little, all the time (keeps from making parallel lines in the finish)
Tip #3 - keep the spine to the left (or right) when you change sides. In other words, one side the blade is always point down and the other is point up. This compensates for any unevenness in your chuck.
Tip #4 - after the A160 belt, put tape down on the chuck so you don't scratch the finish.
Tip #5 - I tried using regular, non-trizact belts and I didn't like it at all.
If you've ever tried this you probably noticed some wash-boarding effect caused by the seam in the belt. I can never get rid of it completely, but here's some ways I found to minimize it:
* Before using the belt scrape the grit off the seam area with a coarse stone of some sort.
* Use the absolute minimum pressure will grinding.
* After you finish with one grit, back off the chuck just a tad and make several more passes. Then back it off a tad more and do it again. This seems to knock-down the high spots.
The end product does not look like a normal machine finish from a flat platen and certainly doesn't look like a hand finish. But, it is consistent, smooth, and doesn't take me 3 hours to do a MagnaCut blade.
So I tried using my SGA (surface grinding attachment) to do the flats, before I grind the bevels. I've gotten good enough with it, that I'm selling knives with that finish. Saves me a ton of time and I can pass a savings on.
So, I thought I'd pass on my recipe:
* Flatten everything with an A300 Trizact (green gator) belt
* Then A160 Trizact
* Then A65 Trizact
* 220 grit cork belt loaded with coarse compound (an A40 belt works too, but I found I liked the cork finish better)
* Medium scotch-brite belt
Tip #1 - in between each belt, cover the blade with a Sharpe and let it dry. Grind until the black is gone, and then a little more.
Tip #2 - move the belt left and right a little, all the time (keeps from making parallel lines in the finish)
Tip #3 - keep the spine to the left (or right) when you change sides. In other words, one side the blade is always point down and the other is point up. This compensates for any unevenness in your chuck.
Tip #4 - after the A160 belt, put tape down on the chuck so you don't scratch the finish.
Tip #5 - I tried using regular, non-trizact belts and I didn't like it at all.
If you've ever tried this you probably noticed some wash-boarding effect caused by the seam in the belt. I can never get rid of it completely, but here's some ways I found to minimize it:
* Before using the belt scrape the grit off the seam area with a coarse stone of some sort.
* Use the absolute minimum pressure will grinding.
* After you finish with one grit, back off the chuck just a tad and make several more passes. Then back it off a tad more and do it again. This seems to knock-down the high spots.
The end product does not look like a normal machine finish from a flat platen and certainly doesn't look like a hand finish. But, it is consistent, smooth, and doesn't take me 3 hours to do a MagnaCut blade.