Shaping Horn

SamuraiDave

SamuraiDave

Joined
Apr 6, 2001
Messages
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I was wondering if you can shape horn using the same tools for woodworking, And what do you do to get the polish back up to par with the rest of the piece?

I rounded off the handles for my Karda and Chakuma for my 15" Suripati and did the Yvsa superglue finish to them (They look great). They feel much better than the flat ended Karda and Chakukma so I was thinking that I might want to round off the ends to some of my horn stuff.

What do yall think?
 
The kamis use a khukuri to shape horn but I would not suggest this for you, Dave. Yvsa will be around and he's an expert in this area so I'll leave the suggestions and advice to him. When I was playing with handles I had the use of a shop with a Bridgeport mill and maybe 8 or 10 different sanders. So, unless you have a fully equipped shop I can't help.
 
I hand to remove the ring on my 16.5 WWII
I used various files and sand paper then finished off with a light buffing compound looks like glass.
 
Mott,
After you finished your project, do you like it better than with the ring?? Which do you like better horn or wood? Are you going to make the same adj. on a wooden K?? Thanks for your time.
jim
 
Jim

with the ring in place I came close to getting a blister
I think it is more comfortable without it.

in the future I think I'll go with the wooden handles just so I don't feel bad about using it as much as I do.

the horn sure is pretty though, the only problem I have with horn is that its too pretty to use, and that for some reason the horn seems to keep shrinking even though the humidity in Little Rock is near 80% most of the time.

a word of advice though if you remove the ring completely you'll have to cut some grooves in the handle to keep the traction, as I plan to do some engaving on this one(I have come to think of it as my test model)I think I can keep a firm grip.

p.s. don't spare the hooflex!:)
 
There's basically little difference except that the horn is much harder than the wood.

The super glue finish is nice on smooth surfaces. I don't know that I would try it on a carved surface due to its drying so quickly.
It doesn't dry in a smooth coat and when you 1st try the finish you will think you have ruined smooth surface forever. Subsequent sandings and coats brings the super glue to a level finish that takes a super high polish.
I like it because the finish is also super hard!!!!
Shines like a diamond in a goat's arse.;)
 
YVSA,
What do you use to polish it up?
I am still working on the final touches on my KNN 15" Suripati that I applied the superglue finish to.
I am using 400 grit silicon paper, and then rubbing it down with 0000 Steel wool. I have 3 coats of glue on there and each consecutive one goes on thinner, less is absorbed by the wood and more is spread over the surface.
 
Dave I used a vinyl glove and one finger to spread the glue out and it put a fairly heavy coat on each time.
The rough glue got sanded until it was perfectly smooth again and then another coat and so on.
I used rottenstone to put the final polished finish on, but in a pinch some kind of chrome or other metal polish _might work_.
You can get rottenstone at some lumber yards that have fine furniture type woods such as maple, oak, and cherry.
And if that's not possible I'm reasonably sure you could order some online. A can of the rottenstone will last you a lifetime!!!!
It is used with any kind of oil to make a paste and polishes to a diamond in a goat's arse finish and shine!!!!!!!:D

And if you can't find it so that you will have it for future projects send me your address and I will send you a bit of it.:)
 
I actually got the buffing compound I use at wally world, it's a very mild rubbing compound I found in the automotive section.

I sand down to about a 400 grit then use a scotch brite pad(wally world again get the green ones)a damp t-shirt rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease.... does the job real well on my horn model.
 
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