Shaping Linen Micarta Scales

Maqua

Maqua

Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
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Probably an overposted issue, but what the heck. I'm a newbie. I am about to start shaping some micarta scales for my first knife, and am wondering if the basic file/hacksaw/sandpaper approach is adequate? Any tips anybody wanna share?

I have some pics of my blade, which looks cool but will probably shatter into 1.6 billion pieces during heat treating. I will try to find a cheap way to post them.
 
You can shape it like any hardwood. If you grind at all, don't use fast speeds with high grit belts or it'll burn, and leave nasty marks.

Any tips? YES!!! Wear a respirator when you work with that stuff. It gives off phenol, and formaldehyde gases when you work it, and the stuff can get into you system even from the dust on your skin. It can cause real problems in your system, some permanent.
I'm not talking about one of those throwaway white masks meant to keep low flying birds out of your lungs either, but a cartridge respirator, with cartridges rated for organic vapor, AND formaldehyde.
Vacuum yourself, and the entire area when finished working that stuff as the dust can be very harmful to pets, kids, and your wife, or girlfriend, whatever the case. Wash your clothes after working micarta too.
All of those synthetic materials used for handles are very toxic, and I'm amazed at the cavalier attitude of many new makers towards safety when working with them.:confused: :eek:
 
Thanks....I was just wondering about the health and safety issues. I wasn't planning on wearing any PPE, but may have to rethink that.

So do I have to use a sealant or anything when I'm done with the shaping? Or just finish it off with a fine grit emery cloth?
 
No, you don't have to seal it. I'm not familiar with emory grits. I use 3-M wet or dri paper, and sand to 600 grit, then buff, using white 1000 grit aprox compound, and the stuff will come out like glass, if that's your intent.


If you don't have a buffer, just go upwards in grit from 600>1200, 1500, etc. That should do it. Make sure you use some type of backing for your paper. Usually something a little flexible works best, like a thick leather pad, etc. You could use some type of carnauba wax to get a little more shine. Buff with a soft cloth like shining a shoe. A 1750-1800 RPM buffer makes all this a lot easier though.;) :D
 
I meant wet-dry paper instead of emery cloth! Thanks for the pointers; I think I can figure this out now. :D
 
If you want more of a TOPS look/grippy feel to it, you can stop sanding at 220-400, too. It'll reveal the layers more, as well, and the linen fibers expand a bit when wet, so it is pretty grippy. If you want to keep the grippiness but don't like the layered effect as much (for example, the black looks pretty gray at these lower grits), give it a squirt of WD40 and that'll darken it up a bit.
 
Actually, if you get enough formaldehyde in your system you'll live forever! :D

Formaldehyde is highly water-soluble, so if you inhale it it immediately irritates the upper respiratory tract and can cause spasm and edema in the larynx (not likely with the amount that will come off grinding Micarta). Generally the dianostic clues include mucous membrane irritation, respiratory and/or GI tract irritation. Phenols are basically the same story- irritation of the upper respiratory tract, etc.

What is more likely than the inhalation of gases created by overheating Micarta is the inhalation of tiny dust particles. They get into the lungs and immediately cause irritation. If they camp out for long scar tissue forms around them, etc.

Basically, you can't overdo it with lung protection in a shop setting. MUCH better safe than sorry.
 
i have a 2 cansiter mask but im not sure if its rated for micarta work. is there a label or something on them to tell if they will work? i believe they are a carbon filter.
 
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