Shapton Glass Progession

ncrockclimb

ncrockclimb

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Nov 20, 2014
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500 - 2000 - maybe stop or go to 4000
OR
500 - 1000 - 4000

I have seen both progressions recommended in numerous places, and seen prepackaged sets for both. I will be using this on my 3V and 52100 scandi edges.

Any feedback you guys have would be really appreciated.
 
On my Edge Pro I have the Shapton stones : 500, 1000, and 4000

For general sharpening if you don't need to move much metal to correct a factory edge problem or take out dings or chips this progression produces a fairly mirror looking edge and cuts FANTASTIC as far as popping hairs for play time and push cutting various everyday materials. I am totally pleased with that progression.

Although

For toothy you may want to go more coarse.
For fixing damaged or mis ground bevels you will want something more coarse. Good luck finding those. I found one source Jende out of Asia. Knives To Go (where I bought the Edge Pro) has dropped the ball on stocking the coarser stones.

As far as the 500 2000 I am sure you could produce an edge that cuts stuff with that but the more refined edges are more fun to use especially with the powder metallurgy steels. I have read about and used toothy but for me, in practice . . . nah dude, nah. I have too many actual uses for a blade that push cuts like a woodworking chisel.
 
Thanks for the reply! I appreciate your feedback and your perspective.

While I occasionally like creating a polished, hair splitting edge, I have found that for my EDC and bushcraft knives I like more toothy edges. On my KME I usually stop at very light strokes with 300 grit diamonds and two or three very light passes on a leather strop with green compound. This edge will shave hair, is toothy enough to slice 11mm nylon kernmantle rope with virtually no pressure, and maintains a workable sharpness for a long time on a variety of steels / edge geometries...

So, after thinking about this for a little while longer, my question is more between stopping at 1000, 2000 or 4000.

I am 99% sure I want the 500. I don't plan to reprofile anything with waterstones, so I think this is as coarse as I will need to go. I think the 500 can repair any small chips or rolls. If I am wrong and you think I need a 220 or 320, PLEASE tell me.

I am 99% sure that after 500 I should go to 1000. After that I get confused.

Should I stop at 1K, go to 2K or go to 4K? I want a slightly toothy edge, and might want to create some more refined and polished edges at some point...

So waterstone gurus, consider me to be a turkey and baste me with your knowledge. Should I get...

500 + 1000
OR
500 + 2000
OR
500 + 1000 + 4000
OR
500 + 2000 + 4000
OR
500 +1000 + 2000 + 4000
OR
super coarse + 500 +1000 + 2000 + 4000

I am leaning towards 500, 1K and 4K at this point, but am hoping some more of you guys will weigh in to confirm I am doing the right thing or point me in a different direction.

Thanks!!!
 
500 and 2000.

Once you use them and see how they work for the knives you have you will probably want to add the 1000 to better span the gap between the 500 and 2k. You will probably want something coarser such as the 320 and if you really need finer then the 4k.

I think the standard 500 and 2000 stones will take you a long way, I know they work well for me and I rarely use the 1k or finer than 2k.
 
If I had it to do over again I would of bought a 10mm thick 500 and a 1k instead of a 1k and 4k . I rarely use the 4k I just don't need it on the steels I use my glass stones on.
 
If I had it to do over again I would of bought a 10mm thick 500 and a 1k instead of a 1k and 4k . I rarely use the 4k I just don't need it on the steels I use my glass stones on.

I have the 320 in the pros and while it's not a reprofiling stone it leaves a similar scratch pattern to a new dmt coarse
 
I have mainly see and been recommended to go with the 500 and 2000. That should be more than fine enough for a knife's edge.
 
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