Shapton Glass Progression

[Zatx]

So I've ordered Shapton glass stones for my edge pro clone in 500, 2000, and 6000 grit flavors.

Will the jump from 500 to 2000 put too much wear on that stone? Is the 1000 a necessary step? Should I use the stock 1500 stone before the 2000 shapton?

 

[RadialBladeworks]

I don't know about the stock stone grit sizing on the clone (1500 translates to how many microns? For reputable brands, you can consult the Grand Unified Grit Chart to more appropriately mix and match stones of different brands), but generally speaking you double your grits. So anything under a grit double is considered overlap (500-800-1000...) and anything over a doubling is considered less-than-perfect. Emphasis on perfect though.

The upside to higher jumps is the use of fewer stones (but yes, higher wear per stone) which speeds up the process (unless you jump too high [emoji6])

In my usage, I think you'll be just fine. I jump from 400 to 1000 on the stock EPA stones with no issue.

I would not broaden your low end jumps anymore than that though

It serves to note that anything above 1000 is considered a finishing stone, and anything below it is considered stock-removal, with 1000 being the sort of transition area. The relevance of this being you don't ever want to jump from, say, a 320 heavy(ish) stock removal stone to a 2000 finishing stone as the finishing stone just cannot contend with that much work, so you won't get the finish that final stone was meant to provide

TL;DR I think you'll be fine

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jason B.]

500 to 2000 works just fine but using these stones in comboniation is so that you can create a toothy/polished edge. Because of their speed the 2k will easily wipe out the 500 grit scratches but as you move up in steel hardness and alloy content the ability of the 2k to remove the 500 grit scratches will diminish. Its very rare that I use the 1k between the 500 and 2k, for 99% of things it's just not needed.

The real problem is going to be the 2k to 6k jump, this is a rather large jump and scratch removal might become a small issue. It's still going to improve sharpness and polish but if you look closely you might find some remaining coarser scratches. Not a big deal if you just want a sharp knife but some seek the perfect polish.

 

[Zatx]

500 to 2000 works just fine but using these stones in comboniation is so that you can create a toothy/polished edge. Because of their speed the 2k will easily wipe out the 500 grit scratches but as you move up in steel hardness and alloy content the ability of the 2k to remove the 500 grit scratches will diminish. Its very rare that I use the 1k between the 500 and 2k, for 99% of things it's just not needed.

The real problem is going to be the 2k to 6k jump, this is a rather large jump and scratch removal might become a small issue. It's still going to improve sharpness and polish but if you look closely you might find some remaining coarser scratches. Not a big deal if you just want a sharp knife but some seek the perfect polish.

I was seeking the perfect polish. With that in mind you would recommend both the 1k and 4K?

 

[Jason B.]

Yes, they will be needed if that is your goal.

 

[bgentry]

500 to 2000 works just fine but using these stones in comboniation is so that you can create a toothy/polished edge.

For me, the holy grail of edges is one that catches easily on skin, plastic, food, rope, etc. Yet is fine enough to shave hair with ease and be 'scary sharp'. I have never produced an edge like this.

But it seems to me, the more I learn, that a *really* toothy edge (like 100 to 300 grit) with polished "teeth" might be what I'm after. Which actually makes a lot of sense. Two different sharpening gurus recommend almost the same thing:

John Jurranich and Murray Carter. Both say to use "a coarse stone" and "a fine stone" and to change elevation to a higher angle on the finer stone. Carter also says to do back honing only with the fine stone and says to only use water stones.

Jason, what's your feeling on what I've described above? I'm thinking I should do some experiments with a DMT coarse to make a toothy edge and then polish it, maybe with back honing only, on a Spyderco UF stone.

I invite commentary from anyone else who has knowledge and experience with this. I asked Jason directly because he commented specifically on this and I respect his opinion greatly.

Brian.

 

[Zatx]

I ordered the 1K and 4K today (along with the Hapstone v6). So my progression will now be:

Diamond 140
500 (all Shaptons)
1000
2000
4000
6000
Balsa Strop .50 micron
Balsa Strop .25 micron
Then a few passes on my Knives Plus Strop Block

This will mainly be for my PM2 in M390, M4, and Cruwear flavors.

My S30V and S110V PM2's will probably get the 500/2000/Strop block treatment.