Sharp Maker vs d2 and Elmax

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HotRodColt

Joined
Feb 28, 2007
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My folders are all D2, Elmax and S30V. I have a Sharpmaker I bought a few months ago, but I am worried it won't touch my dull D2. Any of the more aggressive rods worth purchasing? Or do I just save for a wicked edge?
 
If they are at a sub 40 degree angle, then you will be fine, If they need to be reprofiled you can do with the diamond rods, but expect to spend an hour or two.
 
Diamond rods are definitely worth it. It shouldn't take 2 hours to reprofile with the diamonds. Unless the edge is at about 30 degrees per side, as long as you reprofile at the 20 deg setting. Reprofiling to 15 deg will take longer.

I have done a few knives with the diamonds, and while it does take time, you can easily see your progress at it cuts.

After the hard work is done, touch ups only take minutes. Even full sharpenings won't take near as long once you set your bevel.
 
I reprofile to 30 degrees so touchups even when very dull only take a couple minutes. 2 hours would be to run through the progression or a extremely obtuse and or damaged knife.
 
HotRodColt said:
My folders are all D2, Elmax and S30V. I have a Sharpmaker I bought a few months ago, but I am worried it won't touch my dull D2. Any of the more aggressive rods worth purchasing? Or do I just save for a wicked edge?
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Yes, it all depends on how much metal you will have to remove to match the 15 or 20 dps of the Sharpmaker. I love the diamond rods for the SSM but not only for reprofiling (which can still take some time) but for my go to stone.

One of my favourite approaches is to use a good quality (Norton) Crystolon coarse/fine combi stone (with oil, or water, or dry?) freehand (often using an angle wedge intermittently to ensure good angle control in order to stay at 15 dps) and then the final touch on the 20 dps setting on the SSM.

The other approach, may be even more important, is to thin the knives out enough so that they cut well and then applying the final edge on SSM is not such a big deal. On folders I bet that every thickness before edge bevel of more than 0.3 mm (certainly more than 0.5 mm) is a waist of metal.
 
I saved for and purchased a WE. It is expensive but to me it has been worth it. Terrific results that are completely repeatable. Reprofiling and mirrored edges (if you'd like) are both easily within reach for a WE.
 
FordFan said:
I saved for and purchased a WE. It is expensive but to me it has been worth it. Terrific results that are completely repeatable. Reprofiling and mirrored edges (if you'd like) are both easily within reach for a WE.
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What all did you invest in from WE?
 
HotRodColt said:
What all did you invest in from WE?
Click to expand...

Originally I got a Pro Pack I. Later I added the upgraded arms and some ceramic stones. I also use very high grit auto sandpaper taped to stones when I want a high gloss mirrored edge...because nothing really needs an edge like that.
 
CBN vs Diamond for sharpmaker is very similar. It's discussed at length on spyderco.com forum. Either one should work for your need, no need to get both.

I haven't used CBN, but I have used DMT credit card. Very nice result. Regardless of system used, reprofiling will take sometime, as it has to remove same amount of metal.
 
Lol, it's funny that the medium stones will put a hurt on a CRKT rather quick but hardly touch my Endura
 
The Sharpmaker should have no problem sharpening D2 with the standard ceramic rods. The diamond or CBN rods are generally only needed if you are reprofiling and IMO even with diamond rods the Sharpmaker is not the best tool for the job.
 
I use the Sharpmaker per the instructions from the master sharpener, the guy who started Spyderco. The Sharpmaker was his first knife product and he has sold tons because they work well and safely. I'm not sure if I have the exact terminology correct but I try to keep the back bevel to 30 degrees inclusive and the primary micro bevel, the one that initiates the cut, to 40 degrees inclusive. D2, M4, Super Blue, Elmax, ZDP-189, and many other steels have all been successfully sharpened using ceramic rods and these angles. Most of our kitchen knives have a narrower back bevel and I put a 30 degree micro bevel on them.

Here are some good threads that might be of value.

http://www.zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB0r6GvESGg
 
The Diamond hones are necessary if you want to reprofile the edge to change the angle or if you need to repair damage. Otherwise the brown and whites will easily be able to take care of touch ups.
 
I'd go back and forth on the coarse on until a burr forms, then repeat on the other side. Could take awhile though.
 
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