Sharpen a Mora?

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Oct 23, 2010
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Just got my first mora and I'm a little confused. It's the carbon steel clipper. It's scandi grind, but it also seems to have a slight microbevel on it.

I use the edge pro, sharpmaker, and I have a couple stones. Should I sharpen the main scandi bevel, or the micro bevel? Also what should I use?


Thanks.
 
so long at the micro bevel is truly micro, you can sharpen the main edge to get rid of it.
otherwise I'd polish the micro bevel and leave the rest alone.
 
I don't have a Mora yet, though I've been tempted to get one for a good while. The Scandi grind on the edge seems like it'd be prime for my favorite method, 'stropping' on wet/dry sandpaper on leather/wood backing. Wide bevels are so easy to maintain this way. I'd probably do away with the microbevel, and just use about 1000/2000 grit to maintain the main bevel (or, if more 'bite' were preferred, something in the 400-800 grit range).
 
Thanks for the info vik.


And OWE, edge trailing or leading? And with soft or hard backing?




I don't have a Mora yet, though I've been tempted to get one for a good while. The Scandi grind on the edge seems like it'd be prime for my favorite method, 'stropping' on wet/dry sandpaper on leather/wood backing. Wide bevels are so easy to maintain this way. I'd probably do away with the microbevel, and just use about 1000/2000 grit to maintain the main bevel (or, if more 'bite' were preferred, something in the 400-800 grit range).
 
The 20 degree edge (10 degree bevel) on the carbon Moras is a little brittle so it depends on what you are going to use it for. I have one that I have been using to cut leather that I just sharpen to the 20 degree edge. Others that might see rougher use I put a secondary micro bevel around thirty something degrees.
 
Mora recommends a micro bevel on all of their knives that are going to be used as a general purpose blade.
 
If the edge does need a microbevel, that's easy enough anyway. After sharpening with whichever method you choose, a few light passes on a ceramic hone (such as your Sharpmaker's rods), at a slightly elevated angle, will make quick work of it.
 
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