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Sharpen A Recurve Blade
- Thread starter Loki_The1
- Start date
+1 that Sharpmaker is a fantastic tool that simplifies sharpening recurves. I still use mine for that occasionally.
That said, I've moved to freehand sharpening and that's what will get you best results, maximum flexibility, and easier to do it in the field with your hunting knife without need to lug along Sharpmaker.
If you don't have a large number of recurve type blades to sharpen, then for freehand I would recommend a smaller handheld option like this dual grit Buck EdgeTek diamond steel (325/750 grits) for $25. Those 2 grits will give everything you need for practical usage. They also have a slightly more expensive, 3-grit Edgetek sharpener in this same line that would give you a higher 1200 grit option as well. This sharpener has rounded sharpening surfaces so you can sharpen curvy or flat blades, and you can hold it like a steel. When I use my diamond or ceramic steels like this freehand, to hold a consistent angle, I typically rest the point on something and hold it straight up and down, then it's easier to keep my blade strokes at a consistent angle. Also, if you want a helper angle guide, you can get a cone-shaped angle guide and attach it to your steel or your Edgtek, to help hold a consistent angle.
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/BU...-Steel-65-inch-Diamond-2-Sided-Sharpening-Rod
If you have a bunch of recurve blades and want to go beyond a simple 2-grit or 3-grit handheld diamond steel like the Buck, then I'd recommend getting into slip stones. I'd get a coarse Norton slip 180 grit for shaping and edge repair, a finer 600 grit diamond cone for apexing, and then perhaps a higher grit "extra fine" diamond or ceramic steel to finish. That would give you a full 3-grit sequence and could handle all types of steels including super steels. I'd only get into this type of setup though if you have a LOT of recurve blades to sharpen, including super steel recurves.
Here's a example set of 3 sharpeners that can handle, coarse, medium, and extra fine sharpening of recurves, including super steel blades. Notice the slip and dmt cone sharpener both have wider and narrower curved edges, so you can sharpen a good range of various recurve sizes:
Norton Crystolon 6" slip (I'd get the "medium" 180 grit to be your coarse stone)
DMT large cone sharpener: https://www.knifeworks.com/dmt-diamond-cone-large-fine.html
DMT extra-fine diamond steel: https://www.knifeworks.com/dmt-12-diamond-steel-extra-fine.html
That said, I've moved to freehand sharpening and that's what will get you best results, maximum flexibility, and easier to do it in the field with your hunting knife without need to lug along Sharpmaker.
If you don't have a large number of recurve type blades to sharpen, then for freehand I would recommend a smaller handheld option like this dual grit Buck EdgeTek diamond steel (325/750 grits) for $25. Those 2 grits will give everything you need for practical usage. They also have a slightly more expensive, 3-grit Edgetek sharpener in this same line that would give you a higher 1200 grit option as well. This sharpener has rounded sharpening surfaces so you can sharpen curvy or flat blades, and you can hold it like a steel. When I use my diamond or ceramic steels like this freehand, to hold a consistent angle, I typically rest the point on something and hold it straight up and down, then it's easier to keep my blade strokes at a consistent angle. Also, if you want a helper angle guide, you can get a cone-shaped angle guide and attach it to your steel or your Edgtek, to help hold a consistent angle.
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/BU...-Steel-65-inch-Diamond-2-Sided-Sharpening-Rod
If you have a bunch of recurve blades and want to go beyond a simple 2-grit or 3-grit handheld diamond steel like the Buck, then I'd recommend getting into slip stones. I'd get a coarse Norton slip 180 grit for shaping and edge repair, a finer 600 grit diamond cone for apexing, and then perhaps a higher grit "extra fine" diamond or ceramic steel to finish. That would give you a full 3-grit sequence and could handle all types of steels including super steels. I'd only get into this type of setup though if you have a LOT of recurve blades to sharpen, including super steel recurves.
Here's a example set of 3 sharpeners that can handle, coarse, medium, and extra fine sharpening of recurves, including super steel blades. Notice the slip and dmt cone sharpener both have wider and narrower curved edges, so you can sharpen a good range of various recurve sizes:
Norton Crystolon 6" slip (I'd get the "medium" 180 grit to be your coarse stone)
DMT large cone sharpener: https://www.knifeworks.com/dmt-diamond-cone-large-fine.html
DMT extra-fine diamond steel: https://www.knifeworks.com/dmt-12-diamond-steel-extra-fine.html
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 79
What tools do you have? The above post lists all kinds of good info.
If you just have a stone you can use the edge of the stone. Other systems offer you the ability and flexibility to do it too.
Back in the day I did my zt300 on a Lansky then I went free hand now I have a WE
If you just have a stone you can use the edge of the stone. Other systems offer you the ability and flexibility to do it too.
Back in the day I did my zt300 on a Lansky then I went free hand now I have a WE
Generally speaking use a round or oval sharpening tool with a diameter smaller than the inside curve. If you don't have a shaped stone or a ceramic stick, one method is to use waterproof sandpaper with a round backing. A straight dowel can work, and I've used a straight sided glass bottle as well, a pipe, anything. You can tape the sanding sheet on if you like.
Then it's just regular sharpening; remove the worn edge, sharpen both bevels until the edge doesn't reflect light, finalize the apex. Use light to moderate pressure, very light at the finish. Choose grit according to how much material you need to remove (or how coarse you want you're edge). Lubricate with light oil or water, use a clean stone or sanding sheet before you do the last passes.
Angular cross section stones like with the Sharpmaker can work too. But reduce your pressure, since you're concentrating it into a much smaller area. "Edge or flats" doesn't necessarily matter, since you'll just have two contact points instead of one inside the curve. Any slender stone can work, especially if you bevel the edges so they won't catch too much. Your Muela should be pretty easy to get an edge on. Have fun!
Then it's just regular sharpening; remove the worn edge, sharpen both bevels until the edge doesn't reflect light, finalize the apex. Use light to moderate pressure, very light at the finish. Choose grit according to how much material you need to remove (or how coarse you want you're edge). Lubricate with light oil or water, use a clean stone or sanding sheet before you do the last passes.
Angular cross section stones like with the Sharpmaker can work too. But reduce your pressure, since you're concentrating it into a much smaller area. "Edge or flats" doesn't necessarily matter, since you'll just have two contact points instead of one inside the curve. Any slender stone can work, especially if you bevel the edges so they won't catch too much. Your Muela should be pretty easy to get an edge on. Have fun!
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2016
- Messages
- 6,630
you can use the corner of any sharpening stone. I hate sharpening recurves though so I don't buy anymore. still have a Kershaw blur in s30v and that's what I use to sharpen it. the edge pro I have also has a tool for recurves and kme also offers a tool for recurves.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
- Messages
- 2,496
The Sharpmaker is my tool of choice for recurve blades. Mo2 has a fantastic idea using the edge of a stone so long as you can keep a consistent angle.
Edge of stone is a good solution except with super steels, which should be sharpened with diamonds, which don't work really to use the edge of a diamond plate.
My personal takeaway on that is (seriously): just say no to buying super steel blades with recurves. Then you don't have to go buy specialized diamond sharpening gear like the DMT cone or wave sharpeners, or various handheld diamond rods like those I mentioned earlier, etc. Just saves a lot of hassle.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,908
An oval-sectioned diamond "steel" takes care of that situation.
Which I referenced above in my earlier post, agreed. But my point here is, I personally avoid buying super steel blades with recurves. Then I don't need so much specialized sharpening gear.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 25,908
Diamonds in general are specialized sharpening gear. 
"Super steels" are now mainstream though, lots of folks own them, and a growing % of the folders in my collection--at least 1/3 at this point--and a couple of my fixed blades, are classified as "super steels." Diamonds are becoming the primary/universal type of sharpening solution for me since they can handle everything.
I still prefer using traditional stones whenever I can, whether Sic, Alox, whatever, as the feedback is subjectively so much nicer than diamond plates. But it seems like for folks who want to keep their sharpening gear to a minimum and own super steels, diamonds are the logical do-it-all option.
I still prefer using traditional stones whenever I can, whether Sic, Alox, whatever, as the feedback is subjectively so much nicer than diamond plates. But it seems like for folks who want to keep their sharpening gear to a minimum and own super steels, diamonds are the logical do-it-all option.
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 483
Honestly man, if you have a recurve, Baryonyx products are your guys. The Bull Thistle scythe stone is a phenomenal option that is very economically priced. I reprofiled S30V in literally a few strokes with that beast. My North Fork is now sporting a proper edge. They also offer a ceramic hone to set your apex, as well as numerous excellent benchstones.
I rounded the corner off one of my Mutts and used it to reprofile a Kizer Uprising in S35VN, which it handled with aplomb.
The Arctic Fox and Ptarmigan are excellent mid/high grit follow-ups if you like a cleaner edge. Again, those have had their corners rounded off for use on recurves and really, together, the aforementioned set of stones sharpens my recurves to complete satisfaction
I rounded the corner off one of my Mutts and used it to reprofile a Kizer Uprising in S35VN, which it handled with aplomb.
The Arctic Fox and Ptarmigan are excellent mid/high grit follow-ups if you like a cleaner edge. Again, those have had their corners rounded off for use on recurves and really, together, the aforementioned set of stones sharpens my recurves to complete satisfaction