Sharpen slipjoints

akadave2

akadave2

Joined
Jun 21, 2008
Messages
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I use a Sharpmaker and even have the diamond sticks. It doesn't give me the ability to reprofile or get hair whittling sharp. I want a 15 degree (per side ) bevel and was going to get an Edg Pro but the slipjoint blades may be too narrow ?

How do you guys do it ?
 
Are you stropping off of the Sharpmaker for the hair whittling or just going right for the hair? Do you have the ultra fine stones for that system?
 
akadave2 said:
I use a Sharpmaker and even have the diamond sticks. It doesn't give me the ability to reprofile or get hair whittling sharp. I want a 15 degree (per side ) bevel and was going to get an Edg Pro but the slipjoint blades may be too narrow ?

How do you guys do it ?
Click to expand...

I've been using my Lansky set to do just that. It handles smaller blades a bit better than other systems. Blades that are ~5/8" wide or so (typical of many traditional pocketknives), when clamped in the 'notch' at the end of the clamp, will have edge angles very close to 15°/side (maybe slightly less) when using the '17' setting on the clamp. The pic below is of my Case 5344 stockman's pen blade, which is narrower. But the edge angle still finishes up somewhere between ~15° - 17° per side.
 
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ChapmanPreferred said:
Are you stropping off of the Sharpmaker for the hair whittling or just going right for the hair? Do you have the ultra fine stones for that system?
Click to expand...


I have the white, the brown and the diamond stones. I do have a table strop but I don't use pastes on it
 
is it really necessary to sharpen with sharpmaker or a simple sharpening system (like the ones that are sold for 3-4 dollars) or at least a victorinox sharpener is ok for this task?
 
Unfortunately I sharpen freehand and so far I haven't found a magic sequence that I can tell you that doesn't require massive amounts of practice. :(
 
sak_fan said:
is it really necessary to sharpen with sharpmaker or a simple sharpening system (like the ones that are sold for 3-4 dollars) or at least a victorinox sharpener is ok for this task?
Click to expand...

What's 'necessary' is entirely up to the person doing the sharpening. Some tools/systems are easier for some people to learn and use. Lots of options, but sometimes one particular tool is a better fit for the individual, at the moment the work needs to be done.

I have noticed that many small blades on factory pocketknives come with some truly hideous, asymmetrical, uneven & thick edges on them. So a re-bevel can make all the difference. That's where a 'system' or other guided sharpener can really help out, by putting a bevel on that's got good symmetry & cutting geometry. Once that's done, touch-ups become a whole lot easier, by almost any means available.
 
manual sharpening with a sharpenening stone scares me a little bit. because i think i can make the edge asymmetrical by accident. because of that a simple victorinox-like sharpener looks good for me.Is there any performance difference between the simple ones and high-end sharpener like spyder co sharpmaker?
 
sak_fan said:
manual sharpening with a sharpenening stone scares me a little bit. because i think i can make the edge asymmetrical by accident. because of that a simple victorinox-like sharpener looks good for me.Is there any performance difference between the simple ones and high-end sharpener like spyder co sharpmaker?
Click to expand...

A little bit of asymmetry is always expected when freehand sharpening, so don't worry too much if the bevel angles are a degree or two different from one side to the other. The really bad ones will often be much worse than that.

Which Victorinox sharpener are you referring to? If you're referring to a pull-through type (Vic makes one or two of those), they might leave the edge in a somewhat crude/rough condition, sometimes worse (damaged & weakened), if it's a crossed carbide pull-through.

The Sharpmaker is known for it's ability to refine the edge to a pretty high level, especially in practiced hands.
 
sak_fan said:
manual sharpening with a sharpenening stone scares me a little bit. because i think i can make the edge asymmetrical by accident. because of that a simple victorinox-like sharpener looks good for me.Is there any performance difference between the simple ones and high-end sharpener like spyder co sharpmaker?
Click to expand...

Let's let you in on a little secret; it won't matter.

Contrary to what a lot of people think, there's no secret or rocket science to putting a sharp edge on a knife. A couple degree difference is not going to make a bit of difference that is noticable in the field. You can put a shaving edge on any pocket knife with a small stone and the back of a belt. It just takes some practice. In a pinch, you can also use the bottom of a coffee mug, top edge of a car window, or a flat side of a brick. With a real made for purpose sharpening stone from Lowes or Home Depot, its easy after awhile.

But don't use those pull through sharpeners. They will damage an edge.

Browse the Utube files on free hand sharpening and practice.
 
thanks for all the suggestions guys.I was talking about those pull through shapeners.I was thinking to buy one but i won't after seeing your comments on them.
 
I picked up the Lansky Diamond kit. It works great! I had to reprofile a couple blades but it was a snap and now all of them pop hair. I still would like to get good at stropping to a hair whittling edge but I will get to it this winter.
 
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