Sharpen the D2 blade

J

jk13542

Joined
Jan 22, 2012
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Can I use Spyderco Sharpmaker to sharpen D2 steel . If yes, please tell me how. If not, what is the most cost effective way to do it. My knife in this case is HEST Dpx 2.0 folder
 
You can use the Sharpmaker to sharpen any steel. But it might be slow going on D2 if it's dull and you only have the two sets of stones that came with the Sharpmaker. The problem is a combinations of A) D2 is hard to sharpen anyway, and B) the brown Sharpmaker rods are too fine to reprofile or bring a D2 edge back from very dull (unless you want to make it a multi-night project and spend hours on it).

If you get the optional diamond rods for the Sharpmaker, it will go much quicker. Once you've set your edge, then go on to the brown stones. I would also highly recommend the optional ultra-fine rods (with the red tips).

cheers,

Mag
 
Yes, you can.

D2 is a harder steel though, so it might take longer than some other steels to sharpen.
 
JK I put this edge on my FLG (D2 blade) free hand with a soft Arkansas stone....

IMG_3183.jpg


Just Kiddin:D I used my EP. D2 is harder than a mummy's family jewels. The Sharpmaker
will work but it will take a good while to get the job done.
 
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I haven't had to Sharpen my HEST/F 2.0 yet, and I've had it near four months now. I do have a BM 710, also in D2, that I have owned for a number of years and abused thoroughly. Dropping this knife on concrete produced a visible flat spot - remarkably little damage, considering the fall - and I was able to sharpen it out in under a half-hour on a sharpmaker. In my experience, D2 isn't particularly hard to sharpen compared to superalloys like stellite or ZDP-189, you just have to remember that it's a tool steel. It's a metal designed to cut metal. I remember reading somewhere that D2 was originally a planer steel, but it's been used in knives a long time now because it's so wear resistant. It also has an exceptionally large grain, and even a finely polished edge will cut very aggressively. But because of its wear resistance, it is better suited to consistent maintenance rather than, say, the neglect that befalls your typical SAK. Using a sharpmaker to bring a D2 blade all the way back from completely dull is by no means impossible, but it will take a lasting, steady hand, and perhaps a reasonable amount of time. It's still a good knife steel - the blades that need to be sharpened less often simply last longer - and in my opinion, the HEST/F 2.0 is a hell of a knife. Not perfectly built, but super well-designed, easily strong enough for more abuse than you'd typically subject a folding knife to, large enough to be useful, not so large as to be inappropriate, not so pretty that you're scared to use it, and with a bunch of low key, actually-useful bells and whistles like the bottle opener. Great choice!
 
As long as your edge angles match up to the Sharpmaker's settings, you should be fine. A Sharpmaker is all I use anymore for everything from 1095 to ZDP189. D2 will respond very well to the right touch and some patience.

You do need to check the angles on your edge and make sure that you're sharpening the edge and not the shoulders of the blade. Check the M, T, & E subforum for tips on doing that.
 
You will be fine, but as others have recommended, get the coarse diamond rods. These will knock off a huge chunk of time. And the tip dalefuller is referring to is the sharpie trick (I've been wrong before), just do a search.

And to take a tip from Jdavis882 from Youtube, just work one side at a time and really scrub on it in a back and forth motion being careful not to round your tip off.
 
I generally use a diamond stone (DMT), then put on a small microbevel with a ceramic stone (Spyderco). Both work very fast, even on D2.
 
Either diamond or silicon carbide (like wet/dry sandpaper) works well for re-bevelling or heavy metal removal on D2. Ceramics are always at their best for finishing, after the bevel itself is established and the edge is apexed.
 
sharpening D2 steel with the sharpmaker does take time. my BM nitrous stryker did not come as sharp as i expected it to be, i had to sharpen it for 3-4 nights 15min per night. i'm not sure if i'm doing something wrong but i feel it's sharper if i don't strop it after.
 
This question comes up often, if at some point you get fed up with sharpening, you've just got to try something new and hope it works.

I reached this point a while ago, and to date, I have found softer steels a bigger PITA to sharpen than anything else, mostly because the edges are so dang malleable and because I end up having to sharpen it more often.

I learned about angles after I bought my EP, I actually understood what 15° looks and feels like, I started understanding grits and exactly how important holding a steady angle is.

The most cost and time effective way is probably a belt sander or paper wheels.

Second in speed would be a guided or clamp based system.

With more skill, freehand on benchstones.

Croc sticks don't make much sense for sharpening, but they make a lot more sense for light sharpening, I can't imagine taking 4 nights to get an edge.
 
grybsh7 said:
JK I put this edge on my FLG (D2 blade) free hand with a soft Arkansas stone....

IMG_3183.jpg


Just Kiddin:D I used my EP. D2 is harder than a mummy's family jewels. The Sharpmaker
will work but it will take a good while to get the job done.
Click to expand...

What's a "good while" in your opinion Rick? I'm asking because I never owned a D2 piece till now. Thanks.:)
 
Skimo said:
This question comes up often, if at some point you get fed up with sharpening, you've just got to try something new and hope it works.

I reached this point a while ago, and to date, I have found softer steels a bigger PITA to sharpen than anything else, mostly because the edges are so dang malleable and because I end up having to sharpen it more often.

I learned about angles after I bought my EP, I actually understood what 15° looks and feels like, I started understanding grits and exactly how important holding a steady angle is.

The most cost and time effective way is probably a belt sander or paper wheels.

Second in speed would be a guided or clamp based system.

With more skill, freehand on benchstones.

Croc sticks don't make much sense for sharpening, but they make a lot more sense for light sharpening, I can't imagine taking 4 nights to get an edge.
Click to expand...

I'm sure this is going to sound stupid, but could you use a Drimmel {sp?} tool? Sounds like it would be feasible and a easy way to have at it.
 
MPOS the FLG in the pic took several hours over several sharpening sessions. Thats was using a x coarse DMT plate to set the bevel and 10 more stones and a polishing tape to finish on my EdgePro. I changed the bevel from probably, 22 degrees per side to 15 per side. The Sharpmaker will work fine to touch up or maintain an edge but can be very time consuming if you want to reprofile.
 
MrPocketsOfSteel said:
I'm sure this is going to sound stupid, but could you use a Drimmel {sp?} tool? Sounds like it would be feasible and a easy way to have at it.
Click to expand...

Only if you want to really hog off some steel, but you won't get a uniform edge with a dremel.
 
I'm trying to make a video on sharpening D2 but I'm at a loss at how to explain it. What would everyone like to see?
 
knifenut1013 said:
I'm trying to make a video on sharpening D2 but I'm at a loss at how to explain it. What would everyone like to see?
Click to expand...

That would be great if you can do that. Like I said before, I never had a D2 piece and I don't want to mess it up. You're "at a loss at how to explain it"? Just explain it.;) You'll do fine I'm sure. I'll be looking forward to it. Don't be skeeeredddd!:D
 
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