Sharpen Your Busses

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knifeguy999

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Jul 20, 2008
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hey guys sorry for another post i promise this will be the last one for a while. I was wondering what yo guys think is the bst way to sharpen this infi. I have a lansky now but i really want to upgrade and maybe move to a really nice sharpener or something. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for everything guys i really appreciate everything yall have done for me and my son.
Thanks
 
i love the edgepro but hate their stones, i swapped them for some wider diamond stones that are easily 5x's better then i go to a strop. ive learned over time that with the infi i can make the angle steeper and still have a good strong edge.
josh
 
No 1 system is really better per se. I have found experiance is what really gets the sharpening job done. Practice often and soon the skill is developed :) I like to use a Spyderco Sharpmaker followed by a G10 backed strop. Sometimes when an edge needs a real agressive retouch I will fire uop the Bader grinder with a 120 belt but you can do the same thing with a Norton medium stone to remove a lot of material for those serious sharpenings. The trick is to learn how to hold the same angle for each stroke across the stone. That is why I love the Spyderco Sharpmaker so much. I just need to hold the knife straight up and draw it across the stones in their preset angles and I am set. I have sharpened neck knives to machetes with it.
 
I use a 600 grit EzeLap diamond stone to get out super dings, and everything else is on a piece of leather I got from the saddlery down the road for $3, charged with some automotive buffing compound. Cheap, easy to use and gets the blade polished like a scalpel without much effort. :thumbup:

STANLEYHOG.jpg
 
Bill Siegle said:
No 1 system is really better per se. I have found experiance is what really gets the sharpening job done. Practice often and soon the skill is developed :) I like to use a Spyderco Sharpmaker followed by a G10 backed strop. Sometimes when an edge needs a real agressive retouch I will fire uop the Bader grinder with a 120 belt but you can do the same thing with a Norton medium stone to remove a lot of material for those serious sharpenings. The trick is to learn how to hold the same angle for each stroke across the stone. That is why I love the Spyderco Sharpmaker so much. I just need to hold the knife straight up and draw it across the stones in their preset angles and I am set. I have sharpened neck knives to machetes with it.
Click to expand...

I agree 100% the sharpmaker is sharping made easy, then strop and you are in buisness.
 
Learning to sharpen free-hand on benchstones is one of the true pleasures of being a knife owner (nut). It just takes practice. For me, the aforementioned DMT 600 grit (red) is the perfect basic benchstone. After getting the blade toothy sharp on the red DMT, I polish the edge on a Translucent Arkansas stone. After you have gotten the knife where you want it, after use, a few swipes on the Translucent stone will maintain the edge for a long time. Sometimes to take out nicks or to reprofile, a DMT Extra Coarse (black) stone is necessary. These three types of stones are all one needs for sharpening maintenance. In the field, Arkansas stones can be a problem becausse they are fragile. The best in the field are the plastic based folding sharpeners from DMT or EZE-LAP and another good feature is that they weigh next to nothing. Cheers, Alex.
 
I use a strop mainly. But at times I really snck at working with a strop.

I get fantastic results one moment, and the other moment I get a knife that's even duller then a gnats -ss.......I don't know what I 'm doing wrong, but some knives just get sharper then other ones.

CZ
 
yea ive been sharpening free hand for years and i was just wondering how yall are doing it. i was thinking of getting a sharpener for when im not in the modd to free hand or if i need a quick sharpen. But i guess im just gonna upgrade my grandaddys stones to some diamond and arkansas. Thanks again guys.
 
Water stones; pulling the blade away from the stone, until the burr forms. Then buffing it off. I also use a belt grinder on medium speed.
 
A ceramic rod for touch-ups but for stubborn rolls and dents I use 600 grit sandpaper on a stack of newsprint, than 1500, 2000. Then I wipe it across my loaded strop a few times. I have an edgepro, and its nice, but I need to clean the stones.:rolleyes:
 
I like the lansky when I have let my blade get really dull. For coated blades I use a thin piece of silk to protect the blade from the clamp. I then step through my stones (all of mine are diamond), which I clean before or after every use. I finish up on a 4 sided strop I made, with side 4 being plain, un-loaded leather. I think some oil on the strop makes a big difference.

Most of the time, and especially with Busse INFI steel, I just hit a ceramic rod a few times, then strop. This almost always gives that hair-popping edge we crave.

Convex edges get worked on with sandpaper, and then a stropping on a slack strop. That stack of newsprint sounds like a great base; I've been using some firm foam I have.
 
thats pretty cool! i just found my edge pro and i might go with a tormek to see how good that is. im looking at opening my own knife/gun store. (about time!) and i need a indust. sharpener so i can keep everything sharp. gonna have to upgrade the edge pro lol.
 
That's good. I am also in the process of setting up my own e-shop with lots of knives, gifts, outdoors gear, watches, flashlights etc. I believe it will be ready most likely within this month;).
 
Using a belt-sander, as Jerry Hosson explains here:

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/776367/

http://www.jerzeedevil.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18391

Harbor Freight 1''x30'' belt-sander:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2485

Sharpening belts:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=48040&cat=1,43072

Compounds:

http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/buffing_compound.html


That Sweden-made Tormek machine is nice and all, but I'd rather buy more INFI for that money... The Harbor Freight belt-sander is only 44.95 USD.
 
I've never used on of those fixed sharpening systems, but I've seen the results Tyrkon gets and am impressed! Very cool! I prefer to sharpen by hand and keep a convex edge, but I can see using one of those fixed systems to reprofile my knives with a flat edge. They put a very nice looking edge on there! High polish and very even!
 
All together guys, "Very Carefully!" I've said it before and I'll say it again 'Learn to sharpen Freehand and keep practicing until you get it right.' Using sticks and wheels and guides makes it seem like work, sitting there with the stone and your favorite knife is relaxing. Yes, I have some sticks and even a guide somewhere but re-profiling a factory edge just isn't the same on those things. You are more likely to find a stone to use when you need it that those other gadgets.
 
I am Lazy, and my Busse knives lend well to this, they tend to stay sharp a long time and then I use a Crock stick and a strop if needed.

Any Busse with an Asym grind is the easiest to maintain, a Crock stick is all that is needed.
 
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