Recommendation? Sharpener and storage questions

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Jul 22, 2017
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I currently work on a set of naniwa chosera stones. 400, 1000 and 3000 then finish off with a stropping paddle with a compound.

Looking to sell them on.. I just find it so difficult if I just want to sharpen one knife. Get them all out, give em a soak, get four tea towels soaking wet and covered in slurry. Sharpen for 30 minutes. Leave stones out and let them dry for a few days before putting away. So I generally won't sharpen until I have five knives that need a going over to justify it. I got proficient at it, I could get every knife shaving sharp. But I have no idea what sort of angle I was achieving on my edges.

I would like something that comes with diamond stones just for the ease of it. No mess and not a big deal to touch up one knife at the end of a long work day. Would like an adjustable angle system. Between 12 to 35 degrees would be nice. Not one with just three different angles. Something that can comfortably do a chefs knife, a long skinny filleting knife, I have a BK2 that I'd like to be able to sharpen too which are quite thick. Then the usual suspects like pockets knives etc. Would like to be able to easily use one of those angle cubes one the system for calibration too.

I'm thinking wicked edge or kme?

Next question is about storage. How should I be storing my knives to protect against corrosion? Ideally some sort of wax so it can last longer. Needs to be food safe as most of my knives are used for preparing wild game. Then do I store out of their sheaths? Should they be wrapped in paper?

Cheers all for replies.
 
Edge Pro.
As far as the edge corrosion it is too dry here in the high desert of The Wild Wild West for me to comment on that. I have zero edge degradation on even my plain carbon knives from corrosion / moist air. Sure, store them out of the leather . . . you could get some chef's knife edge guards.
 
For the corrosion get some Camellia oil from ebay they have been using it for hundreds of years from what I remember reading I think it was also used to stop Katana's from rusting.
Another good product is Froglube paste and it's food safe as well,just heat the blade up good and warm with a hair drier and then just brush it on and your done,you can the excess on or wipe it off and Froglub really does work I use it on my Maxamet blade and it has not rusted or done much of anything for that matter.
 
Edge Pro.

What reason did you go with that system over the likes of KME? I have thought about that system as there is no clamp so FFG knives and larger thicker knives aren't too much of a problem. What sort of mess do you make with the water stones?

Another good product is Froglube paste and it's food safe as well,just heat the blade up good and warm with a hair drier and then just brush it on and your done,you can the excess on or wipe it off and Froglub really does work I use it on my Maxamet blade and it has not rusted or done much of anything for that matter.

Oh cheers I will look into that.. sounds like what I'm after.
 
I use a KME,being right handed I found the edgepro awkward to use with the stone in my left hand.The DMT aligner is another option.
 
That's pretty cool. You use it like a sharpmaker?

Does anyone know if bees wax can be used as an alternative to frog lube paste?

I live on the other side of the globe. My local gun store had frog lube paste listed on its site but out of stock. Enquired as to when they'll have it again and they won't be. I could order it from overseas but for a $15 product shipping is at least $30
 
You could purchase Renaissance Wax...I've had the same can for about 20 years, and in truth, rarely use it. I don't think it's necessary. A simple, light application to blade and covers (scales) with some pharmaceutical grade mineral oil, (sold as a laxative), has worked on my knives for decades. It's cheap, readily available and can also keep the joints oiled as a bonus. (And it's food safe.)

No disrespect but my recommendation is to forget the Frog Lube. Totally unnecessary and of questionable value for your purposes.

Depending on the tanning process and the leather, I have knives that can be stored in their sheathes for years at a time with no issue. Others, not a good idea.
 
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