Sharpener for carpal tunnel sufferers?

L

loft

Joined
May 5, 2013
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Hi all. New to BladeForums. Been in love with knives all my life, especially Spyderco and Emerson. Have had several favorites (Civilian, Super Karambit) but have sold them due to legality issues. However, I just received a Spyderco PM2. Aside for my love of blades; I want to be able to sharpen them. I have a Sharpmaker but with my carpal tunnel what would take 20 minutes going from M to UF stones, takes me two to three hours because I have to pause due to cramping and numbness.

I guess overall I am looking for a more efficient sharpener that isn't going to cause my wrist to be out of commission for hours... :(

Thanks in advance!
 
This is about as good as I can get the PM2 on my Sharpmaker.

20130505_011026.jpg


Wish I could get a mirror finish but it would probably take me a week.
 
Time is an issue? Then I suggest power equipment, paper wheels or belt grinder.
 
Paper wheels. Takes seconds to get laser sharp.

For less than $100 you could be set up with all new equipment, practice on thrift store knives and old hacksaw blades, then go to your good knives.

Read the sticky at the top here.


-X
 
fast14riot said:
Paper wheels. Takes seconds to get laser sharp.

For less than $100 you could be set up with all new equipment, practice on thrift store knives and old hacksaw blades, then go to your good knives.

Read the sticky at the top here.


-X
Click to expand...

That's a mighty long thread... lol. Thanks, didn't even notice it before.
 
Picking an appropriate grit for the job can speed things up dramatically.

A Sharpmaker removes metal very, very slowly, so it's no surprise that it'll take a while. Especially with more wear-resistant steels (S30V, etc.). The SM is really meant to work best as a light-maintenance tool, to be used on edges that are already in pretty good condition, and just need some quite bite put back into them. If taking a dull edge all the way to mirror finish is the goal, it'll take very, very long time.

Aside from the powered options suggested, a large diamond bench hone, such as a C/F DMT Duo-Sharp, used in conjunction with a guide clamp (Aligner), can very quickly touch up edges on knives. If occasional maintenance is the goal, it can often be done in just a handful of passes per side (maybe 10 or less). Lubing the stone with mineral oil, water or water + dish soap can literally smooth out the process as well. I suggest the guide, because not having to worry about maintaining the angle is a great relief for the hands. Diamond works best at very light pressure, and combining that trait with large abrasive surface area can really make a difference in time spent and physical effort given. Diamond will also work much better (faster) with S30V and similar high-wear steels.

If mirror-finishing is still the goal, then a full sequence in diamond from Coarse > Fine > EF > EEF, and stropping with 6 > 3 > 1 micron diamond paste would get it there. Still would take some time, though. The C/F combination by itself can leave an excellent working edge on a blade, and can do it quickly.

Here's a demo video from DMT, on using the Aligner clamp w/a bench hone to touch up a larger blade (kitchen knife):
[video=youtube;iZOM_3Xi8O0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=iZOM_3Xi8O0[/video]

David
 
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I never thought I would ever recommend a powered sharpener to anyone, but... in your situation, I will. Yes, try a belt system or even paper wheels. I have serious issues with powered setups because of heat buildup concerns. Regardless of what anyone tells you, you cannot put a new angle and clean bevel on an edge in 30 seconds without serious heat issues.

In your situation, any kind of freehand sharpening (even the sharp maker or DMT clamp) involves fine motor movements with your hands, so I'd recommend a powered system for you. I've never used one, so I'm the last person to ask for recommendations, but I know that people use the Work Sharp and the paper wheels with satisfaction.

Cheers,

Mag
 
Another vote for the paper wheels. I don't suffer with carpal tunnel, but am visited by ole Arthritis from time to time. If you have the grit wheel properly waxed, and do not use excessive force, then heat build up is minimal. On mine, there is seldom even any sparks visible. If they do show up I just add more wax. The wax is to reduce the heat if done right. Light pressure until the burr is visible is the answer. Unless I am re-profiling a blade, it takes me less than 5 minutes to sharpen a knife, and I take my time to assure an even grind. You just need to keep the blade moving and not stop while grinding. Same as you would with a belt grinder.

If the blade is sharp and just needs a touch up, then I just run it on the slotted wheel (the strop for the wheels) and it is back to razor sharp. I seldom need to re-grind my personal knives as I strop them on the slotted wheel any time I use them, to return them to top shape again.

Blessings,

Omar
 
Magnaminous_G said:
Regardless of what anyone tells you, you cannot put a new angle and clean bevel on an edge in 30 seconds without serious heat issues.
Click to expand...

Don't the manufacturers use belt sanders to profile and put edges on the blades?
Pretty sure they don't use water-cooled systems like private Japanese knife makers.

I'm a free hander myself, but I'd recommend paper wheel without hesitation.
 
I would also recommend a powered setup. For a belt sander, get a Kalamazoo 1SM 1"x42" or a Harbour Freight/Grizzly Ind 1"x30" or even a WorkSharp WSKTS mini belt sander. I would also recommend the paper wheels. My current power sharpening setup I have is a Kalamazoo 1SM, WorkSharp WSKTS and paper wheels setup on 2 bench grinders. I also have an EdgePro Professional Model, Spyderco Sharpmaker and some DMT diamond stones but they all take too long and I mainly use the Sharpmaker and DMT stones for touch ups.
 
with all the knives i have sharpened and the knives i made and sharpened, i have not had any issues with heat buildup hurting an edge. no matter what anyone says, it takes a lot more to hurt an edge than what you might think. i sharpened k II on a belt sander and finished the edge off on the paper wheels. the vid unit made shows the edge was not hurt. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q_eMwRaHYg
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Picking an appropriate grit for the job can speed things up dramatically.
David
Click to expand...

This is sooo important. Understanding what your objectives are and using the tools that will get you there in the least amount of time/effort. I'm not going to disparage powered systems, they work and many can attest to how well. From my own POV, freehanding can be therapeutic as well as effective.

Are you planning any sort of surgical option? A carpal tunnel release could possibly help you quite a bit and recovery time for this procedure is relatively modest in most cases. In the last five years I've had surgery on both wrists and freehand sharpening played a big role in recovering fine motor dexterity following surgery (bony fusions in both cases, no small thing what with the screws, pins, removed bones...). 1.5 years expected recovery time for this procedure, I was pressing a 70 lb kettlebell within 7-8 months. What we do not use we loose, so whatever one can do to keep something productive will pay dividends now and in the future.

If surgery isn't an option, you still have to manage how you use your hands and keeping them functional in the face of adversity, freehand stone-work can help. Use the right tools for the job and only minimal pressure/grip strength is necessary, and it keeps you using your hands without appreciable stress on the wrists. Just a thought. After that, I'd have to say go with the paper wheels and you'll have plenty of support on the forum - they will get the job done.

Best of luck,
HH
 
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Wow, I really want to thank everyone for all of their responses. I am on mobile and can't respond to everyone but in summation, I won't be getting the surgery for it. I condition it and use a brace, it hasn't progressed in several years but I do have pain flare ups using repetitive motion after roughly an hour or two. I was almost thinking of getting a Wicked Edge. That one seems to be more forgiving and have consistent results from what I've been reading.

Again I really appreciate everyone's suggestions!
 
I'm a big believer in the SharpMaker but trying to get a fairly hard S30V blade to do anything on one will be very painful and time consuming. Paper wheels or belts for you I think. Professionals use them...I mean the capable, qualified professionals due to the need to do volume. They need a system that will allow a lot of paid work to get done. Freehanding would either take too long to keep people happy or require too high a price (or both). Look at proper, professional, expert Samurai sword "polishing". That is both sharpening and polishing, they don't make a distinction, and can be many thousands of dollars for a first rate job on an heirloom piece. But there the expectation is controlled.
 
HoosierQ said:
I'm a big believer in the SharpMaker but trying to get a fairly hard S30V blade to do anything on one will be very painful and time consuming. Paper wheels or belts for you I think. Professionals use them...I mean the capable, qualified professionals due to the need to do volume. They need a system that will allow a lot of paid work to get done. Freehanding would either take too long to keep people happy or require too high a price (or both). Look at proper, professional, expert Samurai sword "polishing". That is both sharpening and polishing, they don't make a distinction, and can be many thousands of dollars for a first rate job on an heirloom piece. But there the expectation is controlled.
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Yeah, I was able to sharpen the Tenacious without issue, but the factory edge on my PM2 isn't even and I can't finish it on the Sharpmaker.
 
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