Sharpener for my Kershaw Blur 1670

9

901-Memphis

Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Messages
15
I am a proud new owner of a Kershaw 1670 Blur model and am wondering what is a good sharper for this product.

I currently have a $3 walmart sharper that has carbie and ceramic on it but am not sure if this is the right product for my knife.

I really like the knife and i held one at the store before i bought myne. I got it for $38 shipped off a great seller on ebay, i highly recommend him if anyone wants to shop him.
 
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A lot of info in that thread i saw some of it and will have to read the rest later.

Can i just ask if there is a particular model you would recommend for my knife?
 
Many different sharpening methods are used by forum members. It may be to your benefit to use the search fuction to get a quick idea of what each method entails. Each has it pros and cons. They vary in cost, time, required skill, learning curve and application. For a quick overview try this link. OldDude1 http://zknives.com/knives/sharpening/index.shtml
 
Okay thanks i have a lot to learn. I was trying to keep the budget pretty cheap here if i can, but not sure now
 
The recurved area of the 1670 blade may be a bit difficult to address using flat stones, sand paper or hones for a person unfamiliar with sharpening. Not screwing up the edge while sharpening your new knife is even more important than producing a great edge. The knowledge base and knife related resources on this forum are frightening. I messed up the cosmetics of the bevel on my first recurve. Learn by my mistakes. Read first ~ then sharpen. OldDude1
 
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Memphis, welcome. I met a guy down the street that is a member of bladeforums. Cool. Anyway, two knives in one month for me, my first. Got me a Sharpmaker off Amazon for $45.00 delivered. No one says much bad about it, and since your blade is sharp already, a great SYSTEM to keep it that way. If I need to bring up to snuff some kitchen knives, I read where I can add sandpaper around one of the plates to use as a very coarse and then progress through the stones.
 
Thanks for the input guys, i will continue to read up until i sharpen my knife.

I plan on using this for self defense so i hope to not accidentally use it for work unless i have to, in which case it will remain razor sharp because the only thing i used it on so far was to test it on a sheet of paper.
 
For something like that, the Sharpmaker would be really nice, or else some large ceramic crock sticks.

If you beat it up too bad, that is when things get more difficult. For touchups, the ceramic sticks are really nice.
 
901-memphis, where at in northern kentucky are you at? i'm close to columbus ohio and if you are up to a road trip, i would be glad to teach you how to sharpen your knives. recurves are no problem for me or any knife for that matter.
 
I live in Florence, KY - its a short drive up to Ohio. I might have to take you up on your offer if i get a good sharpener
 
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There are just too many options out there just looking at this thread and a couple on the first few pages, i am a little overwhelmed with all the information at hand.

I will surly continue to read before i attempt any sharpening though.
 
The first mistake of any new sharpener is to think a factory edge is sharp. Factory edges are very bad examples of what sharp or properly formed bevels are. For a good example look at a fresh utility razor.

Recurves are great cutters and IMO look really cool but there is very little options when it comes to sharpening them. With a bench stone you can usually round one of the edges off and this allows you to get into the inner curve (the most difficult spot). The problem is you need to have a softer stone like water stones or oil stone to do this. Round rods work ok but are a pain to hold a consistent angle. Then there is oval diamond rods, one of the best ways but not a lot of grit selection. You can also do things like use different grades of sandpaper glued to a 2x4, lay it slightly over the rounded edge and sharpen away.

I personally like to convex recurves, it can be a pain to set that first profile but makes for easy up-keep.

Following the profile/curve of your blade will be the hardest thing to learn. Your hand needs to move in a rolling "S" motion otherwise you will have a bevel that's large at some points and small at others. The width of the bevel that is.
 
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