Sharpener for re profiling?

S

SuzukiGS750EZ

Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
4,563
Hey guys. I'm looking for a sharpening kit that I can re profile a blade and touch up my existing edges. I've got a sharp maker right now but I'd like something a bit more useful for major work.
 
I like the Wicked Edge system because its diamond stones and guidance system give me a perfectly beveled edge and high sharpness. It's expensive, but you can start with a basic system and add stones and features to it over time. WE is also moving to its Gen III clamping system, so there may be a lot of older systems coming up for sale at good prices. I think this is the best guided system on the market.

The Edge Pro is another excellent system, but also expensive with all the trimmings. Many people will prefer it to the WE, but I think most people like the WE better.

You can go with a cheaper guided system that has diamond stones for quick reprofiling, such as the KME or Lansky systems.

You can also go with basic freehand stones. If you set the stones on a 15-degree ramp, you can use freehand stones in a semi-guided way by keeping your blade horizontal -- kind of like your Sharpmaker works by keeping the blade vertical. By using the diamond or other aggressive freehand stones, you can quickly put on a 30-degree inclusive bevel that will be a breeze to keep sharp with your SM stones set at the 40-degree angle. (You can use this approach as well with the guided systems, leaving your SM for maintaining a sharp micro-bevel.
 
A bench-sized Coarse/Fine combo stone in diamond or SiC (silicon carbide, like a Norton Crystolon stone) works well for such jobs. If freehand sharpening is still somewhat intimidating, using a DMT Aligner clamp with the bench stone will help keep your angles steady and your bevels flat.


David
 
Twindog gave you answer to the best options available. WE and KME are both clamped systems, with EP, you hold the blade in place. All have their pluses and minuses, but you may as well just pick the price willing to spend and go with that one, and you're sure to have great results.

For what it's worth, I have two of the three mentioned, and the KME is my first choice. But if a blade is odd and needs a little manipulation in position to get the results I want, then the EP comes out. And as many who have guided systems, I still keep the Sharpmaker out on the table for light touch-ups.
 
I use the Work Sharp. It does take some practice to get good. Start with cheap knives and practice. Only takes a few knives to get pretty good. The motorized mini belt can take off a lot of material and round tips if you are daydreaming. Just wanted to throw another option out there. Only about $70 when I bought mine two years ago.
 
I have extensively used the DMT Aligner to rebevel the D2 blades of many many Queen slipjoints
I start from X Course to E Fine
I am very please with the high quality bevels I get
 
For reprofiling as well as for standard sharpening jobs i use a Tormek T7 fitted with an SB-250 Black Silicon stone.
Mostly freehand, sometimes with a jig.
 
For under $50 you could pick up one of the EP clones and a coarse diamond stone to use with it.
 
For setting bevels there are many options but in general it's tough to beat a good diamond plate. If you are not completely comfortable with freehand, purchase the DMT aligner clamp (it's about $12) and it can be used with almost any benchstone.

The aligner clamp and a Norton SiC stone is about the cheapest and the clamp plus an Atoma 140 would be on the expensive side.

In my Professional opinion,

I would recommend you freehand on the coarse stone. The Sharpmaker is what I call assisted freehand so, if you go from a guided system to a semi guided like the SM you will find issues with your consistency that in the end makes sharpening harder than it really is.
 
Jason B. said:
....The Sharpmaker is what I call assisted freehand so, if you go from a guided system to a semi guided like the SM you will find issues with your consistency that in the end makes sharpening harder than it really is.
Click to expand...


I think what Jason says is true, but if you're if you're using the Sharpmaker to create or maintain a microbevel at 40 degrees inclusive, then either a guided or freehand system to put on a 30-degree back bevel is fine. There will be enough margin for error (10 degrees) for the SM to work well. However, the Sharpmaker, as what Jason calls a semi-guided system, will still take some skill to maintain a consistently vertical stroke, as well as to create and remove the burr.

My own sense is that people who are excellent at using freehand stones usually underestimate how much skill and muscle memory they are using -- expertise that doesn't come easily to most people, especially people who sharpen infrequently.
 
Totally agree, but in the same light I see the skill gained from using a Sharpmaker as a good gateway to freehand. As I mentioned though, if not comfortable with freehand adding the DMT aligner clamp makes using bench stones easy.
 
Jason B. said:
Totally agree, but in the same light I see the skill gained from using a Sharpmaker as a good gateway to freehand. As I mentioned though, if not comfortable with freehand adding the DMT aligner clamp makes using bench stones easy.
Click to expand...

Exactly. With the Sharpmaker, you are really just free handing at a different angle. If you can truly master it, the sky's the limit and free hand is simply the next level of progression. That's the only reason I suggest a clamped system first. Once you learn the basics and accompanied eye-hand movements, then you can start producing some real next level stuff.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top