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Sharpener questions for Mr. Sal G.

J

Jamesh Bond

Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Messages
1,760
I have a 701 profile set and love them. Was thinking of getting a sharpmaker later on, but a couple curious wonderings have came to me. If you read this, Sal, and could kindly take the time to enlighten me, i would be most grateful!

1. Although i use my profile stones in many different ways, i have had a hard time using them as described in the instruction booklet. As in balancing the rod and running the knife down it. This technique is awkward for me and honestly seems like a very strange way to use these. Wondering if you could share your thoughts on this or maybe a tip or two.

2. Regarding both sharpening systems, how does one avoid rounding the tip of a blade when using the cornered sides of the rods?

3. Curious why, with all the info you provide with your systems, you dont seem to mention anything about burrs or wire edges.

Been a Spyderco fan for over a decade. My newest, a Manix 2 LW, is on the way for late xmas! Thanks for great products, training, and your attention and involvement!
 
I am not sal ;), but just thought I would share my experience in the meantime.

From the get go I developed my own style and that seemed to work best.


1. Watch you tube for good tips and techniques and use what works for you. I run the blade from heel to tip gradually pointing the tip downward with each stroke. As you practice you will master it. At first it was a bit awkward but now that I have used it for about 7 years. I developed my own technique a few weeks in.

2. When using the corners. Avoid running to the very tip. Once you master the SM. You will be able to quickly run to the tip keeping a mm or two away from it with every stroke. Then using a sharpie. Do the very tip on the flats keeping an eye on your exact angle. You sometimes need to turn the blade in a few degrees if the tip is thicker than the rest of the cutting edge.

3. Good question. I never read the directions or watched the video. I just did my own thing from the start. Its when all else fails I read the directions lol. But if you already know how to sharpen it should be second nature. When I achieve a burr or wire edge with the dark stones. I may just do one stroke per side at a slightly steeper angle then cut through some cardboard. A few strops on the black rouge and I can achieve that shaving sharp edge with a few strokes on the whites after. There are many ways to go about it. But I always run a 30 degree edge and then do a 40 micro. Removing any burr with the 40 and with my strop.
 
Pretty much how i address these issues myself as well. Keeping the tip pointed down works to varying degrees, depending on the blade shape. And doing the point separately but seems to defeat the point of the sharpmakers convenience, even though it does work perfectly. I usually handle my burrs by raising the angle too. Im also of the school of trying to minimize the initial formation in the first place.

BTW, are you referring to the 701 profile set in your #1 response? That is the system im referring to in that question. Seems like you're referencing the sharpmaker.

Just wanted to pick Sal's brain a bit if he has the time to share.
Thank you very much for your time as well.
 
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Hi Mr. Bond,

Thanx much for the kind words and support.

#1 - It does take practice. I have gone to the Golden Stone instead of the Pro-Files as the variables are less and it's easier to use. We couldn't make the Golden Stone back when we made the Pro-Files because the technology wasn't there and the Pro-Files was the best we could do at the time. A good stone to own, but for sharpening blades, the Golden Stone is easier to use. We should have s fixture for the Golden Stone to offer a 30 degree angle next year.

#2 - We each develop our own "tricks" but stopping on the stone (don't come off the stone) is what you want. One of the things we realized working with Crock Sticks was the large radius quickly rounded tips. The smaller radius of the Triangle, Pro-File sets, and Golden Stone minimize the rounding, but still do it. Personally I found that the rounded tip produced is very effective at piercing and is stronger than a pointy point. But to each his own. I'm more about function and I've found that a very sharp point on a high carbon blade steel is easily damaged. YMMV.

#3 - My bad. Leading with the cutting edge in the sharpening stroke does minimize the development of a burr, but they do occur. I just hit the burred side with extra strokes to cut it off with the stone. Actually a discussion on Burrs and wire edges would be a good discussion to have on a forum and then take the lessons learned and write a magazine article or chapter in a sharpening book.

hope that helps.

sal
 
Great tips sal. Looking forward to the 30 degree option on the golden stone. After much equipment (ark stone, edge pro, japanese water stones, etc.) i keep coming back to my sharpmaker and get great results.
 
Thank you for your time Sal.

It speaks volumes when someone in your position can find the time to indulge questions that may seem meaningless in the grand scheme of things. Your rank on my totem pole just rose even higher.

Been contemplating a golden stone also. Now i prolly gotta get one of those too!
 
Thanx for the kind words. I think this statement explains my point of view;

The entire "business chain" from; raw materials, invention, design, manufacturing, marketing, selling, distributing, shipping, warrantees, insurance, credit, etc. ALL EXISTS to service the ELU (End Line User). Remove the ELU from the equation and the entire business chain falls like a house of cards. We all work for you!

sal
 
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