Sharpener To Augment Sharpmaker

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Feb 23, 2006
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I have a Sharpmaker and finally figured out that I need coarser sharpening tools to go along with it (I thought the problem was just my lack of skill). I only sharpen occasionally and mainly kitchen knives and my personal knives. I don't want to spend a lot.

I have read a number of earlier threads and came up with the following possibilities. What do you think makes the best sense. If you have better suggestions please let me know:

1. DMT coarse or x-coarse Dia-Sharp bench stone.
Pros: A solid basic sharpener and I will gain a new skill.
Cons: I don't know if I sharpen enough to make the learning curve worth it and the results may be poor.
2. DMT Aligner w/at least coarse and fine.
Pros: Easy. At least 2 grades of stone. Results will be superior from the beginning.
Cons: Looks a bit flimsy.

Thanks!!!
 
Several members here have adapted their Sharpmakers to use other hones. The DMT hones (such as what comes with the Aligner), could simply be laid alongside your standard Sharpmaker rods (secured with tape or rubber bands), and used in exactly the same way as you'd do normally. The upside is, you can always use these hones freehand, when/if the 'bug' to enhance your skills bites you. And they're also available in a wide range of grits, so you can pick & choose which grit suits you. If all you're looking for is to supplement your Sharpmaker with a coarser grit, this might be worth a look.

There are diamond rods available for the Sharpmaker, but they're rather expensive, and some people feel they're not as durable as they should be. And, there's only one choice of diamond grit available for it.

Another option is to wrap wet/dry sandpaper around your Sharpmaker rods. Again, you can pick whichever grit works best for you. And it's CHEAP.
 
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Some people have bought coarse grit triangular polishing stones from places like Congress Tools. Their 'Ruby' series cuts stupid fast at 80 grit (as does most everything 80 grit).
 
"did you try the diamond rods for the sharpmaker? "
"There are diamond rods available for the Sharpmaker, but they're rather expensive, and some people feel they're not as durable as they should be. And, there's only one choice of diamond grit available for it."
I did not think they would be as good an option since I have read in some threads that they are not very aggressive and are expensive.

"Belt sander?"
I prefer some type of non-electric hand device.

"Another option is to wrap wet/dry sandpaper around your Sharpmaker rods. Again, you can pick whichever grit works best for you. And it's CHEAP."
Would this work as well as a coarse or x-coarse diamond stone?

"Several members here have adapted their Sharpmakers to use other hones."
Could you use an 8" x 3" bench stone or if not a 6" x 2"?
 
"Another option is to wrap wet/dry sandpaper around your Sharpmaker rods. Again, you can pick whichever grit works best for you. And it's CHEAP."
Would this work as well as a coarse or x-coarse diamond stone?

The wet/dry sandpaper works surprisingly well on most steels, given the low cost. Many swear by it. I'd recommend trying it out, on at least one blade. The minimal expense involved makes it ideal as something to experiment with. If you don't like it, you won't be out much money. Since you're looking for a coarser grit, you might start with something around 200 grit, give or take. You can get wet/dry sandpaper in 'assortment' packs, with 220/320/400 grit being a very common assortment. They can be found at Home Depot/Lowe's/Walmart.

"Several members here have adapted their Sharpmakers to use other hones."
Could you use an 8" x 3" bench stone or if not a 6" x 2"?

The larger hones might be awkard to adapt directly to the Sharpmaker, although many have built their own angled jigs to support larger bench hones.

As a couple others have noted here, there are secondary market triangular hones available to fit the Sharpmaker, at coarser grits. I haven't tried these, but they look like an attractive possibility.
 
http://www.congresstools.com/congresstools/catalog?action=getcat&parent=24

The 1/2 in triangular stones drop right into the
Sharpmaker. You can choose your grits and they're much cheaper than the spyderco diamond rods.

The price is certainly right - $8.40-$13.30 depending on the grit for 2.

1. How do the aluminum oxide sharp grains compare with DMT's diamond? Work as well? Do they last fairly well?

2. The grit is numbered from 60 - 120. What does this mean? What would be a good grit for dull knives or re-profiling.
 
The price is certainly right - $8.40-$13.30 depending on the grit for 2.

1. How do the aluminum oxide sharp grains compare with DMT's diamond? Work as well? Do they last fairly well?

2. The grit is numbered from 60 - 120. What does this mean? What would be a good grit for dull knives or re-profiling.

I've been using the same set of congress stones for a couple years now. They have no noticeable wear. Taken that once you've re profiled a blade, you won't really need it for that knife any more.

The smaller the number, the larger the grit of the stone, thus it will be more abrasive. I'm not at my workbench at the moment, but I think I have a set of 120 and a set of 320 grit. If my memory is correct the DMT Course stones are about 320 grit.

I only use the 120 grit on an edge that is really mucked up. It only take a few passes to get the bevel down to the edge(use the sharpie trick). Then I go to the 320 and then to the sharpmaker brown stone.
 
I found the following for DMT. They say mesh not grit but perhaps it is the same.
Extra-fine = 1200
Fine = 600
Coarse = 325
X-coarse = 220
 
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