First stage. Use a steel to maintain the edge. You will sharpen a lot less frequently if you do. The simple chakma that comes with your Ang Khola will do that job nicely but a large butchers steel will do it even faster. Just rub it with little force along the blade keeping it at the same angle or a little higher. You don't need to be that precise.
Second stage. You have dulled you khukuri that much that it does not respond to steeling that well. So you now take a simple ceramic stick and wipe it along the edge just the same as you did with the steel above. You don't need a lot of strokes, just say 10-15 per side, and again you don't need to be that precise. Once again your khukuri is ready to go.
Third stage. You have dulled your khukuri that badly that even a ceramic stick cannot restore the edge. This means you have done something like try to cut through a rock while digging a hole (well - it was only a small rock so I figured ...) . Anyway, you now take out your x-coarse DMT small folding hone and carefully section by section put a new bevel on the edge, working the stone perpendicular to the edge all the way along it. This might seem like a daunting task, but never fear, the x-coarse grinds the 5160 very easy and you will be finished in minutes. "But wait." you say. "I am not that good at freehand sharpening." Does not matter that much. Once you have the bevels roughly set you simply back up to the second stage and use your ceramic stick to align the edge with a few swipes. Once again you khukuri is ready to go.
There you have it, patented three step khukuri sharpening program. Note this will gradually convert the convex edge to a sabre grind very slowly (years) over time.
If none of this makes any sense at all then drink one bottle of beer of your choice and read it again. Eventually it will make sense or you will no longer be worried about your khukuri being dulled so either way problem solved.
-Cliff
