Sharpeners performance and purpose

C

clearkevin

Joined
Oct 7, 2014
Messages
979
Hey Guys
I enjoy sharpening and take some pride in doing it so I really like my EPA. however I am able to get equal sharpness out of my sharpmaker or too close to notice. I like the EPA for going to a high polished bevel and getting a good consistent angle or for re-profiling or setting a poorly ground knife from factory. All that said I don't find a big difference in how sharp I am able to get an edge. Is this the same for most people or do you guys find a noticeable difference in sharpness? What about other systems I've tried a few but the EPA is my only more expensive one.
 
The sharpmaker is the only system I have so I can't really speak to anything else. But I can say that it does what I need it to do. I get a great edge with it and I'm very satisfied with the results day to day. There are times when I get a little frustrated when I have to fix a bad factory edge since it can take a while, but it gets the job done in the end (eventually). There is one reason I would like a different system or method, and that's to get a polished edge. I think that's so cool looking. I sent a trapper back to Case for a centering issue once and it came back with a polished edge and I said, dang I need to learn how to do that myself....
 
What defines "sharp" is literally the old issue of how many angles can dance on the apex. Shrug. After a point, a knife is sharp enough for my purposes and any time or effort beyond that is just "sport sharpening" or sharpening for the sake of sharpening. Nothing wrong with that. I can see the interest of it as a hobby of its own but it's just not my cup of tea. So yes, for me, sharp enough is sharp enough, no matter what tool I use.

I think one of the things is makes sense to think about regarding sharpeners is what kind of sharpening you're talking about (reprofiling, regular touch ups, in the field) and the amount of time/skill one is willing to invest/develop. I see guided rod systems as being great for reprofiling (to a point) but not so good for touch ups.
 
pinnah said:
What defines "sharp" is literally the old issue of how many angles can dance on the apex. Shrug. After a point, a knife is sharp enough for my purposes and any time or effort beyond that is just "sport sharpening" or sharpening for the sake of sharpening. Nothing wrong with that. I can see the interest of it as a hobby of its own but it's just not my cup of tea. So yes, for me, sharp enough is sharp enough, no matter what tool I use.

I think one of the things is makes sense to think about regarding sharpeners is what kind of sharpening you're talking about (reprofiling, regular touch ups, in the field) and the amount of time/skill one is willing to invest/develop. I see guided rod systems as being great for reprofiling (to a point) but not so good for touch ups.
Click to expand...

Yep totally with you on this one I do about the same thing put fun time consuming mirror edges on with the EPA and do regular maintenance with the sharpmaker
 
I don't need a super super sharp edge that will whittle a ticks hair, so I freehand, which is good enough for my needs, which is cutting sushi and sashimi.

I've seen plenty of videos of people stropping their knives for hours to get an edge so sharp it'll make ribbons from any hair.
I've done it, got some strops in the closet somewhere and got super sharp edges but it is an annoyance since edges THAT sharp also get dull really fast.
I just need sharp enough for my tasks and a wet stone can bring me there in no less that 20 seconds on a 1000 or 2000 grit stone, usually a 4000 grit stone.

If I was retired and had a lot of time, I'll get back to the diamond compounds.
 
I have been using a sharpmaker long before it was called a sharpmaker. I met the owner and his wife of Spyderco back in 1985 at a woodworking show. It was the first serrated knife I ever saw. Left with a Police Model, a Mariner and the sharpmaker, I have used other systems over the years but always went back to the spyder. Reprofiling isn't what these ceramic rods were meant to do, will it work? Sure if you got the time. Two years ago I decided to try the extra coarse and fine stones and this opened up a whole new realm to sharpening. If you haven't tried them, you need to.
 
pinnah said:
I see guided rod systems as being great for reprofiling (to a point) but not so good for touch ups.
Click to expand...

They certainly can be.
Making a knife totally blunt and sharp again in less than two minutes.

[video=youtube;7w30a3EjgIM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7w30a3EjgIM[/video]
 
Maybe I should have added that I do have the diamond and the ultra fine stones which are great don't use the much but veryou good
 
Started getting the sharpening bug and was looking at ever more sophisticated systems when I sorta realized it was a case of diminishing returns and asked myself - how sharp was sharp enough?

Today, I use a Sharpmaker and strops for 90% of my maintenance work. I use the CBN rods but rarely the Ultrafine rods. I use a DMT Aligner (or its coasrer stones on the SM) for repairing and reprofiling.
 
Couldn't get on with the edge pro,DMT Aligner was pretty good.Wicked edge is amazing.
 
The only set-up I have that controls for angle is my 10" wet wheel Triton. If I leave the stone graded fairly fine it can still cut rapidly enough yet leaves an edge that only needs some stropping and it will treetop arm hairs pretty reliably. Takes about a minutes per inch on average.

It keeps me honest to compare my freehand and time. Goes at a pretty good pace, darn good result, and being water cooled there's no chance of effecting temper. In fact the longer you hit a given spot the colder it gets.

Even with a guide it still has elements of art to it for hitting the belly and tip just so, but is a nice unit to have around. An excellent choice for woodworking tools especially.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top