sharpeners??

R

RebelUSA1

Joined
Nov 17, 2000
Messages
8
I've decided to buy a Spyderco Calypso (C52-PBK)w/ flat ground blade and would like some Rx regarding a good (but inexpensive?) sharpening system.

Ideas anyone?

Thanks
 
The Sharpmaker 204 from Spyderco is my favourite.

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Seek simplicity, and distrust it.
Whitehead, Alfred North (1861 - 1947)
 
You need a sharpmaker 204

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Have you noticed that time flies like the wind, but fruit flies like bananas ?
 
Those are good suggestions, but you can also sharpen freehand with a simple set of bench stones, if you take a little time to learn the technique. It's not difficult. I prefer DMT diamond hones. Razor Edge systems has an excellent book on sharpening, or you can find another at www.leevalley.com (Lee Valley Tools) or probably even your local library.
 
Here is a pic of the 204... <a href="http://store.knifecenter.com/pgi-ProductSpec?SP204MF">Click Here for the 204</a>

Good luck!

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Click Here, and Check Out Florida Custom Knives

BC... For those who fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know... Semper Fi!
 
Rebel,
I think that I would definately recommend the Sharpmaker 204 for your sharpening needs. But the one thing that is a must is to read "The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening" by John Juranitch. This book is truly an eye opener.

--The Raptor--
 
May be a day late, but hopefully you're not a dollar or two short yet.

Every time I've ever checked, Bayou LaFourche has the best price on the Sharpmaker 204. Excellent service, prompt shipping, etc. Can't go wrong there.

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Asi es la vida

Bugs
 
Understand that, while the 204 is a great example of the V sharpener, V sharpeners are not a good choice for grinding bevels. They are fine for maintaining an edge in between grindings. If you plan to have only one sharpener, you'd do better with bench stones or something like a Lansky system with which you can restore the bevel. Having both is a good idea, though, because the V sharpener is a quick and effective way to maintain an edge. Take care.


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Fred
Knife Outlet
http://www.knifeoutlet.com
 
KnifeOutlet speaks the truth, but consider this - how hard do you have to use knife to have a real need to re-bevel? I have never faced this need.
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RH:
KnifeOutlet speaks the truth, but consider this - how hard do you have to use knife to have a real need to re-bevel? I have never faced this need. </font>
Click to expand...

I don't think it's usualy about hard use...

Re-beveling or reprofiling is usually about changing an angle that is too tall (too large), too small, or asymmetrical on a factory knife.

I nearly always reprofile my knives after the factory edge is gone, preferring 20 to 25 degrees (non-included) depending on the knife (these are Lansky degrees). Then touchups go very quickly on the Lansky.

I have two Benchmades that came with really mediocre and uneven factory edges...they obviously have a line of people doing this by hand. Now the sides match and are at 20 deg on each side.


 
Rebel, use the search engine...there are some excellent and long threads on sharpening systems. See also the Talmadge FAQ on sharpening.
 
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