Sharpening 101

R

ravenQ8

Joined
Jan 2, 2002
Messages
208
I've searched on this site but haven't found what I'm looking for so please be patient. Since I can't get guns here I've really gone into knives but realize the limits of my knowledge. Back in the States I have an Arkansas stone that I used to keep the Bosses' kitchen knives sharp. I also have a Lansky diamond system that I was never too happy with. I just could not cypher the angles and the different slots for the rods. Help me.
Should I send for the Arkansas stone or the Lansky? Or should I buy something completely different? If so, what and where on the internet.
As always, thanks. I've really burned out on the gun boards because of the intolerance and arrogance. I'm finding that the knife community is a totally different experience.
 
I'm also interested in hearing recommendations, as I've tried a few sharpening gizmos, but I usually have best success using a sharpening stone that has a coarse side and a fine side (don't use oil), followed by using a sharpening steel (using my Gerber flat steel--can use sides and the smoother fine flat surfaces).

The Spiderco Sharpmakers seems to be a popular one.

I recently purchased John Juranich's book Razor Edge Sharpening and I've justed started reading it--seems very interesting. John's company has a website at: http://www.razoredgesystems.com/

Let's see what others say...
 
I think you'll find that the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204 is widely respected here. It's easy to use and relatively inexpensive. Also comes with a video-tape and detailed instruction book. You can sharpen anything in your house/shop with it.
 
Yeah, what Knifenerd said.
I can't get an edge on any blade other than with the Sharpmaker.
That one's idiotproof!
 
I recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204 because it is simple, comes with good instructions (including a video), and it works. After reading the manual and watching the excellent video twice I was able to obtain satisfactory sharpness on every knife I tried.
 
The Sharpmaker is too slow to reprofile edges. You need a diamond stone for that, otherwise the 204 is quite ok for edge touch-ups.
 
OK, I'll post my sharpening questions here, since this is the most recent topic dealing with the subject.

When using stones, is a circular motion really that counter productive? I've read that it's a no-no, but it seems that it would help to polish the edge a bit.

How often do you find that you need to reprofile an edge?

I've got stones now, but am probably going to get a Sharpmaker and a strop. My wife thinks I should get a tri-stone type system (like this), as that's what all her cooking buddies use, but I've got recurved and serrated blades to worry about.

-- PG
 
Easiest no nonsense tool- Sharpmaker. If sharpening is a task for you, this is it. If sharpening is a vocation, try a convex edge. These types of edges rule! The short story:

On a 2"X 10" piece of plexiglass or flat hardwood, mount and trim a piece of full grain leather. Cut Alum Oxide or other good sandpaper to size in graduating grits, up to 2000. Lee Valley has a the best stuff. Sharpen by stroking backward, pressing into the leather to make a round (convex) edge, much like Chris Reeves puts on his knives. Most makers who do this use a slack belt grinder. It is so easy!

For reprofiling, get a very course carborendum stone, load it with course lapping compound and go to work. This is fast!

Check with Cliff Stamp, who helped me tremendously with this process, and do a search on convex edges.

Paul
 
The problem is, I can see the benefits of any of the given systems.

The Lansky and RazorEdge systems look like they would be really good at profiling, and keeping a consistant angle on the edge. I see folks debating the difference 2.5 degrees can make to an edge (kitchen knives), and I'm not sure I can keep my hand +/- 2.5 degrees relative to perpendicular. Actually, I'm more concerned about maintaining a consistent angle.

I also like the idea of benchstones. I've got some, and have been able to use them well for most things. I linda like sharpening knives, and am not necessarily looking for the quickest, "let me get this over with" solution. I'd even like to get a Japanese water stone, and try that.

Finally, I do have those serrated and recurved blades. Flat stones won't work particularly well with either of those. Though I do see than Lansky offers a separate stone for serrated blades.

Just saw a tri-stone setup over at New Graham that even comes with an edge guide, and it's only about $23. Hmmm...

-- PG
 
I find the 204 works very well. As the blood thirsty rodent said, it's idiot proof. This topic comes up every so often, and about five months ago was the first time I heard the leather strop mentioned. I'm telling ya, you have to get one. Another member suggested getting an old strop from twenty or thirty years ago over a new one. Something about them being made differently. So, I went to eBay and picked up a really sweet old used barber's leather strop (slap of leather not leather attached to wood bar) for a total of $32.00 shipped, it has made a night and day different in my sharpening all by itself. I don't fully understand what the strop does, but you will amazed at the improvement no matter what other sharpening system you use with it.
 
Ok, I'm interested in this edgepro system. Granted it's $295, but if the results are A+ I'd be interested in spending the money.

Was it difficult to learn at first? In your opinion just how good are the edges given by it?
 
Dark,
The Edgepro is not difficult to learn. I purchased the professional model on the off chance I might want to get the scissor attachment in the future. I also liked the more durable (at least in theory) materials it is made out of. By most accounts the Apex at 125$ does a great job too. The angle it holds it very accurate. It's plenty fast for me too.
 
I ordered some stones from Hall's, great service, nice product. They are worth checking out if you use a stone. Here's their address: www.hallsproedge.com They carry everything, including the tri-stones. I'm a firm believer in Arkansas oilstones.
 
If you want to get into sharpening, get an Arizona stone to go along with some system, like the Lansky or Sharpmaker. Just for fun, I set my Sharpmaker into "bench mode" (there is a way to lay the stones flat on the top, make a roughly 2" wide bench stone).

Sharpening can be quite enjoyable, once you've done it enough to demystify the process, and realize that yes, everything that's happening to the blade makes perfect sense -- you just can't see it. Being able to connect your knowledge with something you can't see takes time and experience, but as the skill develops, it can be quite gratifying.

I've found after sharpening for about two years now (and studying the subject in some detail), that there are many elements to it. The touch of the edge against my skin, the sound the edge makes when I brush it against my arm, the "sticky" feeling a really sharp edge has toward hair, the smooth ride a burrless edge gives your finger nail, the consistency of drawing the blade on a steel, the light reflection characteristics of a "straight" edge....

There's a whole medly of clues, and indirect ways to understand what's happening on a truly small scale. It's fun to find them, and I always seem to be learning new ones.
 
Has anyone used a Skarb sharpener? I have one and am going to try it oit out over the long weekend. It is very well made.
 
Still reading John Juranich's book Razor Edge Sharpening, and he stresses the importance of tapering the blade with a coarse abrasive before doing the final sharpening. This is done with the knife blade almost (very small angle) to the surface of the coarse hone. Without tapering the blade, the cutting edge becomes wider with each sharpening, and quickly becomes dull again.

Seems to me that without some sort of guide system, you can scratch the heck out of your precious knife blade when sharpening manually by hand, as evidenced by some of the pictures in the book.

Do the guide systems, like the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204 recommend and perform this blade tapering ? Minimizes scratching of the blade ?
 
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