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Sharpening 101
- Thread starter SSS Aaron
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Messages
- 7
There are many articles about sharpening on search engines. But to get you started, check out the lansky sharpeners. They can help the novice. When you read the various articles, remember this, once you get an edge on the blade, most of the time all that is needed is a few strokes and the edge will be 'good as new.' A good knife can last a lifetime if you sharpen it correctly and it is used correctly. Obviously, if you have a needto sharpen it every day, then maybe not a lifetime. I have carried knives for years and they lose very little metal. All my knives pass the shave test and the nail test.
You might want to look at the Sharpmaker by Spyderco, which is very popular among people on the forum. It doesn't require any oil or water and is a breeze to set up. It's wonderful for maintaining an already sharp edge. I don't like free-sharpening systems like the one you show because one of the keys to sharpening to to maintain a consistant angle. And that is difficult to do without some kind of system, like the Lansky or Sharpmaker or Edge Pro or even something homemade.
The key is to match the sharpening angle to the angle of your knife's edge. Then raise a burr and gently remove a burr. Lots of threads explain this, but holler if you need help.
The key is to match the sharpening angle to the angle of your knife's edge. Then raise a burr and gently remove a burr. Lots of threads explain this, but holler if you need help.
Are you going to be sharpening dull blades or maintaining sharp blades?
From what I have heard the Sharpmaker will maintain a knife, that already has an angle to match the Sharpmaker, quite well. If you need to remove a lot of metal, sharpen a dull knife, or rebevel a knife to a certain angle then the Sharpmaker might not be the right tool.
A rod guided system will sharpen a dull knife, is easy to use, will remove metal, will rebevel, will maintain an already sharp knife. It might be a bit more work to set up than a Sharpmaker and not as portable or convenient.
I am partial to the GATCO rod guided system. Do a search on blade forums for it if you wish. Other rod guided systems are the Lansky and the Edge Pro. The Edge Pro, from what I have read is the top of the line for rod guided systems. The price is a bit higher as well. If I was sharpening semi-professionally I would buy an Edge Pro.
There are various other guided systems that will work as well.
Then there are bench stones. There are various stones and ways you can use them. I have a set that is three stones (Arkansas soft, medium, hard) mounted in a triangular fashion so you can rotate them to expose the one you desire. I have never gotten the hang of them but I am about to give them another try.
If you hone before you get dull you will extend the life of your edge. I have a GATCO. I added the extra fine stone and the ultimate finishing stone (a ceramic). I also strop on leather with red and white polishing compounds. I find that if I strop every so often I do not need to go to the stones much. If I need to stone I do not have to go through the whole regimen from coarse through finishing each time. It is all about maving two bevels that meet in a fine edge. You do not have to remove a lot of metal if you are already close.
From what I have heard the Sharpmaker will maintain a knife, that already has an angle to match the Sharpmaker, quite well. If you need to remove a lot of metal, sharpen a dull knife, or rebevel a knife to a certain angle then the Sharpmaker might not be the right tool.
A rod guided system will sharpen a dull knife, is easy to use, will remove metal, will rebevel, will maintain an already sharp knife. It might be a bit more work to set up than a Sharpmaker and not as portable or convenient.
I am partial to the GATCO rod guided system. Do a search on blade forums for it if you wish. Other rod guided systems are the Lansky and the Edge Pro. The Edge Pro, from what I have read is the top of the line for rod guided systems. The price is a bit higher as well. If I was sharpening semi-professionally I would buy an Edge Pro.
There are various other guided systems that will work as well.
Then there are bench stones. There are various stones and ways you can use them. I have a set that is three stones (Arkansas soft, medium, hard) mounted in a triangular fashion so you can rotate them to expose the one you desire. I have never gotten the hang of them but I am about to give them another try.
If you hone before you get dull you will extend the life of your edge. I have a GATCO. I added the extra fine stone and the ultimate finishing stone (a ceramic). I also strop on leather with red and white polishing compounds. I find that if I strop every so often I do not need to go to the stones much. If I need to stone I do not have to go through the whole regimen from coarse through finishing each time. It is all about maving two bevels that meet in a fine edge. You do not have to remove a lot of metal if you are already close.
Here's a great tutorial, complete with an overview of different systems:
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=26036
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=26036
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2007
- Messages
- 945
The bladeforums search engine can be a bit of a pain. It'll choke on a lot of searches for common words and phrases like "sharpening." If you use google and type "site:bladeforums.com" after your search word or phrase, you can effectively search the forums with google.
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
- Messages
- 549
Couple of standout systems I discovered this year that may have been overlooked by others. The Spyderco 701 Profile sharpening hones are individual ceramic honing rods that are oval and in medium and fine grits. In addition to being spectacular sharpening steels when used like a chefs steel, they are great for sharpening almost any serrated edge I've run across (read this as really easy!). They also save edge steel between using the strop and going back to the stones as the edge gradually begins to blunt with use.
The other is the DMT Magnaligner which uses a DMT diafold twin grit sharpeing hone in coarse / fine. This system works like the Lansky system but has the added benefit of being able to add grits with not only additional diafolds with dual grits but also mini stones in diamond grits. The hones are held by a magnet to the rod which runs through the blade holder and can be aligned to alot of reproducible edge angles. The hones are sweet because they are light, can be used freehand, are packable with the folding paddle system, use no lubricant and best yet use the DMT diamond stones they are famous for in their benchstones. I love em for edge beveling.
NJ
The other is the DMT Magnaligner which uses a DMT diafold twin grit sharpeing hone in coarse / fine. This system works like the Lansky system but has the added benefit of being able to add grits with not only additional diafolds with dual grits but also mini stones in diamond grits. The hones are held by a magnet to the rod which runs through the blade holder and can be aligned to alot of reproducible edge angles. The hones are sweet because they are light, can be used freehand, are packable with the folding paddle system, use no lubricant and best yet use the DMT diamond stones they are famous for in their benchstones. I love em for edge beveling.
NJ