sharpening 110

N

nokia

Joined
Sep 3, 2007
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252
I can get my 110 pretty durn sharp. It will shave, but with some effort and it was just wondering how some of you guys sharpen your 110s. I use a fine Arkansas stone and then use a carbon stone.
 
I can"t believe people spend a bunch of money on sharpening systems because they can't sharpen a knife on a cheap stone. I have a cheap stone that is black on one side and pink on the other that a barber could use on customers.

Learn how to sharpen a knife freehand and you can save money on the other equipment.

There's this this guy that has a Youtube video named Vassily that shows a sharpening ramp that should be a sticky on how to sharpen a knife. You don't need the ramp, your thumb is a good a good guage for the angle. Pushing the blade across the stone will get you shaving sharp in no time.
 
Popcorn,

I am 63 and have never had the ability to hold the same angle freehanding a blade on a stone. Not to say that I haven't gotten blades sharp freehanding, but the tools like the Lansky, where I can hold the same consistent angle is what it takes for me to do the really sharp thing.

Far as cost, I have had my Lansky well over 20 years. So I figure it has cost me what, maybe two bucks a year..... Maybe I better call my financial adviser on this.

And no way would I ever be able to do S30V freehanding on a stone. 420HC goes really quick for me on the Lansky. S30V takes a little longer.

I gotta call mom and ask her if I had to ride the short bus. Yeah that has to be it....
 
Im 54 and just when I have a really sharp edge going....Or part of the blade is good...I guess I'll have to invest in a Lansky if I want to get a truly shaving edge.The knife shop in town does a great job for 2.00 after I get done.Ilike a thin edge even tho it makes it easy to nick with hard use.The kit from Buck with 2 stones and oil helped
 
Well, I have to lighten up on this. Even though I can sharpen free hand and do most of the time. It took me years to develop this method. So sharpening is something that sounds easy but in pratice is not. Its more like a learned art. Still, after several times sharpening by hand the crisp angle gets lost and I must drag out the sharpening device to true up the angle. As we know a true angle sets the blade up to receive a sharp edge.I sharpen w/ diamond stones no strop. When I drag the edge on a toothpick w/o pressure and it sticks or begans to dig it the entire length its SHARP ! This edge does'nt cut paper great but cuts hide like lightening. So its a compromise. Good luck. DM
 
I have come to the painful conclusion that I can't sharpen free hand worth a crap. What really bugs me is the inconsitency of the bevels, so I will be getting either a Lansky or a Gatco with diamond hones, in the immediate future.
 
I like the diamond hones, do it freehand, then go to a good butcher's steele, a long one, and finish up on an antique leather strop. The real key, in my mind, any way, is to touch up a blade BEFORE it needs it. That way, a few licks on the steele and finish off with the strop and I'm good to go.

Everyone has their own technique or favorite tools and my advice is find a system that works for you and then use it. Or, bring it to my house. I'll do it for ya!

Jack
Alamosa, Colorado
 
Rudderjt said:
I like the diamond hones, do it freehand, then go to a good butcher's steele, a long one, and finish up on an antique leather strop. The real key, in my mind, any way, is to touch up a blade BEFORE it needs it. That way, a few licks on the steele and finish off with the strop and I'm good to go.

Everyone has their own technique or favorite tools and my advice is find a system that works for you and then use it. Or, bring it to my house. I'll do it for ya!

Jack
Alamosa, Colorado
Click to expand...

:thumbup:
Hawkeye
 
OK, ok. I could and can sharpen on a stone, I'm old enough to remember when the Lansky became available, BUT I am anal enough that I like the "LOOK" of the straight-even sharpening line on the edge of the blade I get from a de-vice. Call me vain......I sharpen dulling, bloody edges with one of the fold out rods. Like David said the "saw" edge is a hide cutter and 440 needs something tough. Also it is really hard to sharpen a 305, 309 or something like a 425 freehand on a stone because of their small blade size. I know, I know carry a bigger knife.........300Bucks
 
Rudderjt said:
I like the diamond hones, do it freehand, then go to a good butcher's steele, a long one, and finish up on an antique leather strop. The real key, in my mind, any way, is to touch up a blade BEFORE it needs it. That way, a few licks on the steele and finish off with the strop and I'm good to go.

Everyone has their own technique or favorite tools and my advice is find a system that works for you and then use it. Or, bring it to my house. I'll do it for ya!

Jack
Alamosa, Colorado
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good enough reason for me to visit Colorado, Jack. :thumbup:
 
A.P.F., Not to mention there is some real fine elk hunting in the Alamosa Valley area. So, bring Rudderjt a nice Buck knife and see if the hunts on. Sorry, Rudder to offer up your brother-in-law services but I just could'nt resist. DM
 
Rudderjt said:
The real key, in my mind, any way, is to touch up a blade BEFORE it needs it. That way, a few licks on the steele and finish off with the strop and I'm good to go.
Click to expand...

I agree here big-time. Don't let it get too dull in the first place. Keep your edge up regularly and it is easy. The 110 can get really sharp.

However, there comes a time when you have used the edge up through long use. In that case, I use a Norton combination stone w/ mineral oil. (I think it is a medium crystalon/fine India.) The medium crystalon will form an edge quickly. The fewer strokes you need to make, the less likely you are to change the angle.

Once the edge is formed, I refine it with a x-fine ceramic rod/Arkansas hard/x-fine diamond. I find it easiest to remove the burr with a strop, but you can achieve the same effect by increasing the sharpening angle slightly to catch the burr and take it off. Hair popping.

I do it free hand; I never got the hang of using gizmos and guides. That and I'm too lazy to set them up. My stone is just out on the counter and I dress my edge when I pass by. It's always sharp.
 
My Dad uses a Lansky, and I now use a Lansky...diamond set. I have never owned a baber strop, but I have been using the tongue of an old Wolverine steel toe work boot. A few swipe across that after the Lansky, and you are ready to rock. I am known at work for having a razor sharp knife all the time. I don't bother to tell the guys who don't know better that the Lansky does all the work, I am just sensible enough to know when my blade is due.
 
Buck stone and oil...

RB-4.jpg
 
The summer before last, after placing another favorite EDC that had become dull as a butter knife into my desk drawer full of a myriad of other pocket knives of similar dullness, I gave in. I bought a Spydie Sharpmaker. I could put edges on my carving and turning chisels that you could shave with - but a double bevel was out of my capability. I used AR stones and Japaneese waterstones.

The even nature of switching between the triangular rods of the Sharpmaker insures, with a modicum of attention, even treatment to both edges. The Buck 420HC is nearly as easy as the Kershaw's 440A to re-edge. My sea of red - a bunch of SAKs - are sharp now. So, too, are my Benchmade 551 (440C) and 201 (D2) - which came dull right out of the box (Buck spoils you there!). I even touched up my one other Spydie - an S30V Native. The worst to sharpen? The D2, followed by 440C, then S30V.

I learned a new technique last winter - how to re-edge a convex blade. That's easy, in comparison to a double bevel - and only involves SiC wet/dry paper, from 320 to 1,500 grit, and an old mouse pad. It led to my use of an old mouse pad's back, charged with Flitz or Semichrome metal polish, as a great hone - even treatment to both sides - and don't put a lot of pressure on the edge as you pull it across. The key in doing this is when you do it, as others have said - before you have to!

I'm 60 - and I can finally re-edge a pocket knife!

Stainz
 
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