Sharpening 110v Advice

D

derfred

Joined
Apr 19, 2024
Messages
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I want either a Manix2 or a Military 2 in 110v. I am a little confused about how hard it is to sharpen. Some say it is not that difficult and some say it is very difficult. I have no problem with s30v,s35,s45 and my Kme diamond kit. I realize 110v will be harder to sharpen, but is it as bad as some make it out to be?
Is the 140 grit diamond course enough? Kme does make "The Beast" 50 grit stone if I have to.
Thank You, Scott
 
140 is more than enough. Take your time and let the diamond do the work. I'm going to guess the knife will come sharp and you won't need anything that aggressive with a modicum of maintenance. (Stropping with 1 micron diamond spray, or just hitting the edge with a fine diamond hone from time to time.)
 
Blues said:
140 is more than enough. Take your time and let the diamond do the work. I'm going to guess the knife will come sharp and you won't need anything that aggressive with a modicum of maintenance. (Stropping with 1 micron diamond spray, or just hitting the edge with a fine diamond hone from time to time.)
Click to expand...
I have 9 micron Gunny Juice on balsa. Is that good enough?
When I do put it to stones I plan on keeping the factory edge angle if possible.
 
Personally, I never found S110V difficult to sharpen, but I switched to diamond plates many years ago.
 
As Blues said, I think 140 grit is crazy aggressive. I'd be more inclined to maintain with 400 grit diamond.
 
It's not the "grinding" that gets people, especially if diamond/cBN is being used, It's the apexing and deburring.

However, some folks are very obstinate and refuse to use abrasives hard enough to do the job yet they complain about the results regardless of the evidence of they are using poor practices.

Sometimes going too coarse can cause more harm than good especially with electroplated diamond stones which create a rougher surface RA than diamond /cBN bonded stones. The deep scratches created with diamond plates can be very difficult to remove and create more damage to remove at the apex.

Avoid the 50 grit diamond plate if possible, that's for repair not sharpening.

Lastly, finishing with diamond/cBN loaded stropping can make a big difference especially if deburred nicely off the stones.
 
Everything DeadboxHero said.

The only time I ever had trouble sharpening anything was being stubborn trying to use the basic Lansky kit with the aluminum oxide stones. I'd gone decades using that kit and when I bought a D2 knife I finally saw the struggle. Then I bought an S30V and really started to question upgrading. Then I bought a Para3 in S110V and finally upgraded to the Lansky kit with diamonds.

BOOM

Suddenly I get it. I do confess to eating some blades pushing those diamond bits into the steel instead of letting the diamonds do the work, that was the second learning part. But once you go to diamonds I find it's hard to really want to go back. They really do work so much better and if you aren't leaning into them they last a good long time.

And I think it's worth repeating, you don't need the more coarse abrasive to sharpen. You need low grits to either reprofile an edge or grind out damage. You don't need to sharpen each time starting with your course stone. Even with my old Lansky I usually only ever needed that medium coarse I think it was green stone and then finish with the pink fine stone.
 
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