Sharpening 20CV - Help Appreciated

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Pcexbird

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Knife is a Spyderco in 20CV...

Steel websites say this steel can be stubborn to sharpen

What's your experience with the sharpening diffuculty of this steel compared to say S35VN or S45VN?

Any thoughts on whether a Sharpmaker can handle this steel or if I'll have to go with something like the KME?

Does it strop back easily? I don't plan on letting it dull or re-profiling anytime soon. Keping factory angles..


Any help is appreciated
 
Pcexbird said:
Knife is a Spyderco in 20CV...

Steel websites say this steel can be stubborn to sharpen

What's your experience with the sharpening diffuculty of this steel compared to say S35VN or S45VN?

Any thoughts on whether a Sharpmaker can handle this steel or if I'll have to go with something like the KME?

Does it strop back easily? I don't plan on letting it dull or re-profiling anytime soon. Keping factory angles..


Any help is appreciated
Click to expand...
Easy as 1,2,3

Number 1:
Don't overthink it.


Number 2:
A sharpening system is not a solution, it's just a device.

Sharpening technique, experience and knowledge are what make a sharp knife, not a sharpening system.



Number 3:
You can get more out of your sharp maker by using the cBN/Diamond rods to set the bevel and deburr with light alternating passes until sharp enough to cut paper than deburr further with the white ceramic and finish the edge on leather, load the leather with 1um diamond for best results.

If that doesn't work review your technique. Observe your bevel objectively with a usb microscope and use a sharpie to mark the bevel.
 
**I’m not a professional.

I’ve had experience sharpening all 3 of OP’s mentioned steels. I’ve never sharpened any Spyderco’s in the mentioned steels - can’t speak on the heat treatment. I’ve sharpened multiple Hinderer’s, ZT’s and Spartan SHF’s. 20CV ZT’s seemed easier to sharpen than M390 Hinderer’s , maybe it was the extremely obtuse Hinderer factory angles. S35VN seemed to take a little less time to re profile than 20CV or M390. S45VN was by far the fastest, dare I say easiest to re profile. This experience actually made me question the heat treatment of the SHF I was sharpening. The knife held its edge pretty well though..

The only differences in sharpening these was duration of time taken. I used a KME at 19 degrees each time. 50 through 1K diamond stones ( KME and DMT brand ). I would assume the spyderco would sharpen MUCH faster than the Hinderer’s based on thin cutting geometry from factory. Quality diamond stones, a sharpie and some patience are important.

For me , The KME is great for setting an edge angle evenly. The Sharpmaker is great for keeping a sharp knife sharp. I wouldn’t suggest trying to re profile anything with a sharpmaker - it would take a very long time ( and learning curve). The sharpmaker might be perfect for a spyderco though, factory angles may be close to 15 , and you could add the 20 microbevel with a few practice sessions.
 
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luethge said:
**I’m not a professional.

I’ve had experience sharpening all 3 of OP’s mentioned steels. I’ve never sharpened any Spyderco’s in the mentioned steels - can’t speak on the heat treatment. I’ve sharpened multiple Hinderer’s, ZT’s and Spartan SHF’s. 20CV ZT’s seemed easier to sharpen than M390 Hinderer’s , maybe it was the extremely obtuse Hinderer factory angles. S35VN seemed to take a little less time to re profile than 20CV or M390. S45VN was by far the fastest, dare I say easiest to re profile. This experience actually made me question the heat treatment of the SHF I was sharpening. The knife held its edge pretty well though..

The only differences in sharpening these was duration of time taken. I used a KME at 19 degrees each time. 50 through 1K diamond stones ( KME and DMT brand ). I would assume the spyderco would sharpen MUCH faster than the Hinderer’s based on thin cutting geometry from factory. Quality diamond stones, a sharpie and some patience are important.

For me , The KME is great for setting an edge angle evenly. The Sharpmaker is great for keeping a sharp knife sharp. I wouldn’t suggest trying to re profile anything with a sharpmaker - it would take a very long time ( and learning curve). The sharpmaker might be perfect for a spyderco though, factory angles may be close to 15 , and you could add the 20 microbevel with a few practice sessions.
Click to expand...
So assuming the 20CV Paramilitary 2 arrives sharp. If I want to maintain that edge I can use the Sharpmaker and wait until I need to reprofile to get the KME system? Witht a brand new Spyderco would you initially use the 15 degree setting or start with the 20 and do the microbevel right away? I want to maintain factory sharpness and factory angle as long as I can
 
Pcexbird said:
So assuming the 20CV Paramilitary 2 arrives sharp. If I want to maintain that edge I can use the Sharpmaker and wait until I need to reprofile to get the KME system? Witht a brand new Spyderco would you initially use the 15 degree setting or start with the 20 and do the microbevel right away? I want to maintain factory sharpness and factory angle as long as I can
Click to expand...

I’m am not a person with a lot of spyderco experience. If you know the edge angles are a match , then, it should work. I’d blacken the edge with a sharpie and start with light passes on the fine rods. The sharpmaker has two set angles: 15 and 20 , or 30 degrees inclusive or 40. I have no idea what the factory angles are like on a stock PM2 ( I just know they are much thinner behind the edge than the knives I’ve sharpened).

I like the sharpmaker for maintenance, not for serious sharpening, or repairing chips (minor rolls are doable though ).

There will definitely be someone much more qualified than myself to give more feedback on the specifics. I’m pretty interested as well.
 
Pcexbird said:
So assuming the 20CV Paramilitary 2 arrives sharp. If I want to maintain that edge I can use the Sharpmaker and wait until I need to reprofile to get the KME system? Witht a brand new Spyderco would you initially use the 15 degree setting or start with the 20 and do the microbevel right away? I want to maintain factory sharpness and factory angle as long as I can
Click to expand...


First you need to find out what the factory edge angle is. You can use and angle cube + marker technique... or the less accurate angle gauge. Usually somewhere between 18-20°. You can also just use a strop and some diamond compound to keep the edge sharp, unless you really plan on heavy use, then something like stones + strop will be in order.
 
20CV and M390 isn't too difficult to sharpen. Just note that it doesn't develop a noticeable burr.
 
I have to admit I don't think I've ever sharpened my 20CV knife (BM Griptilian). Seems to hold an edge forever.
 
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