Sharpening 300 Series Spey Blade

[TAH]

Yesterday, I was sharpening my 319 on a Spyderco Sharpmaker at 40 degrees. The main blade sharpens right up, but I always have trouble with the spey's heavier edge. Any suggestions?

Here's a photo just because everyone likes a photo.

Thanks!

 

[Stumps]

I sharpen and strop mine on a 1x42 belt and have no problem at all. I would think it would be much more difficult on a stone.

 

[skyhorse]

First off congrats on owning a 319,it's a great knife! Have you tried using the diamond rods to put a 30 degree bevel on it?

 

[David Martin]

The curves are critters. Most everybody sharpens the straight parts of blades well. The curve parts require more careful work. Use the magic marker trick and lift the end of the handle some when making the sweep while keeping it with the same level stroke. That's one method. Another is to work the curve in 3 segments on a lift and straight push strokes. Try different little things and you'll find something that works. DM

 

[TAH]

Thanks everyone.

David, I'll try the magic maker trick, but my problem really isn't the curve. My problem is getting the overall edge as sharp as the main blade.

skyhorse, the Sharpmaker offers a 30 degree setting. Do you think that is a better angle for the spey? Maybe that's the solution.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

A little late here, but I prefer doing my spey blades edge-trailing (stropping stroke) on sandpaper. Much easier to thin the edge grind this way, which would then set up the blade for easy touch-ups on the Sharpmaker, if preferred. On 440A (assuming a Camillus-made knife here), something like 320-600 grit will work very fast. Same applies for 420HC, if Buck-made. Position and stroke the blade somewhat diagonally, relative to the edge of the sandpaper, and lift the heel of the blade as you transition to and through the 'belly' of the spey. The stroke should finish with the very last segment of the spey's edge, near the tip, being essentially perpendicular to the direction of the stroke (grind pattern would be in direct perpendicular to the edge, from the shoulder of the bevel).

Doing this on a somewhat softer backing, like leather under the sandpaper, will introduce more convex. My preference is to use the sandpaper over harder backing, like hardwood or glass, which will still convex slightly (it's freehand, after all), but to a lesser degree.


David

 

[TAH]

Thanks David! I'll give it a try. :thumbup: