Sharpening 440v Native

Joined
Nov 11, 1999
Messages
66
Trying to resharpen my Native 440V to a hair popping edge.

Using a Lansky system. at 20 degrees.

Came out OK but the hairs remain in place.

Is this a hard steel to sharpen? Do I have the right angle? How many passes should I make?

Any tips?
 
I know on the 204 sharpener,I use 30 degrees on the brown stones only.Seems that if you go down to the fine stones on 440V the edge is not as sharp as it is if you just stop at the brown stones.
 
Is a fine grained steel. Should become hair popping, but its also extremely tough and wear resistant. Should be a pain to sharpen.
 
For my 440V Military, I use a primary taper of about 20 degrees and a secondary taper of about 25-to-30 degrees.

For heavier cutting tasks, I'd suggest final taper of 30 degrees is much more durable. I dug out some roots with the 25 degree taper, and the edge suffered a lot of micro-chipping damage. It takes a lot of honing to repair a chipped edge.
 
I do perfer a 30 degree edge,15 degree angle per side.
Unless I am not understanding your post I think you have it wrong.A 20 degree edge is much stronger than a 30 degree but will not slice as well.
If you sharpen to a 20 degree first and then to a 30 you have just wasted alot of time because the 30 degree sharpening is removeing the shoulder for the 20 degree.
I know I didn't get that splaned good. :rolleyes:
 
I meant an initial bevel of 20 degrees included-angle (10 degrees per bevel).

Then I simply adjust the final edge-bevel as required - usually in the 25-to-30 degree included-angle range. Makes touch-ups a breeze.

These angles are estimates, as I enjoy freehand sharpening. I have an older Lansky system and I bought a Sharpmaker out of curiosity, but both are poor substitutes for freehand sharpening - inconstant angles, useless for point finishing, etc.
 
Hey u812, and anyone else:

I also have been a bit disappointed with my Sharpmaker with regard
to getting "shaving sharp" results. My Gatco rig for sharpening does
a better job - albeit being a much longer process.

So, my question is, does anyone else have opinions similar to u812 - whereby
you just use the brown stones, and skip using the white ones?

.....or, any variation thereof?
 
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