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Sharpening a 110

Pack Rat

Pack Rat

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
4,843
I am just curious as to what you guys go by when sharpening a 110 that tells you it is as good as you can get it.

And how your sharpening compares on the different steels. S30V, BG42, ATS34, CPM154,

Do you get these as sharp as the older steels, 440, 425, 420, with the same level of what ever you use as your benchmark or point of satisfaction that one is as sharp as you want it.

Except for ATS34, I now have 110 users in the newer steels and am not really looking forward to the learning curve I am facing on sharpening them. I have already found out that S30V is "interesting" to sharpen.

I guess I was just curious at what level you become satisfied that one is sharp, shaving hair, thin slivers of paper, or how smoothly it does each.
 
I have neaver got one "hair poppin sharp" I think im rolling the edge...For a "edge challenged" Buck nut I wonder just what to get........
 
Soon I will be getting a BP110 CPM154 and a custom with BG42. I have been wandering how the sharpening process will go and look forward to it. I can get the older steels to be "hair poppin sharp" with my lansky. However, I did struggle a little with a different knife brand in CPM154. I can't recall the brand of knife...it was a neighbors knife. If I recall correctly, someone here on the forum mentioned only using the more coarse stones on S30V. I wonder if the same goes for CPM154.
 
The guys were telling me to stop at the medium diamond on the lansky and not to "polish" S30V with the fine hone. It got really sharp, but I don't think it was as sharp as it could have been.

I may be beating this old dead horse... but still curious...
 
I think it takes some experimentation. After doing a minor bit of rebeveling of the primary edges on my BG-42 110 and CPMS30V AG 110, I only use a semi-worn-out EZE Lap diamond rod on them (the two piece brass handle version), followed by a really, really worn-out rod of the same model. I use moderate pressure with the first, then I very light pressure with the second.

I purposely "roll" the edge a bit to remove any kind of wire edge/burr, which results in a kind of a microbevel (I think). Anyway, I do it by hand/feel and it works pretty well.

I tried a ceramic for touch-ups of the BG-42 (and a VG-10 Spyderco), which actually worked pretty well for returning the "hair poppin'" and the "feel" that it was sharp, but I don't think it sliced as well as with just the diamond rods.
 
I use the "Samurai Shark" for sharpening all my knives (as advertised on TV by Billy Mays)... :)

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I had to cut up a carpet today for dog hootch floorpads...It worked OK, but you could see the steel shavings on the side of the blade... :eek:

You can almost measure how much of the blade steel is being peeled off... :rolleyes:

But the best of all is = it's cheap!!! :D

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That's too funny trax... I would NOT let one of those near my Bucks... :) ;)

I'm still an old fashioned stone honer, have not had a lot of practice yet on the new steel so can't comment. It would stand to reason that the harder steels would need coarser stone or rods to make the edge. As rhino mentions, so much is by feel.
 
This thread is titled 110 sharpening, but because I sharpen lots of different stuff besides 300s I will throw my hat in the ring. Because of the super steels I went with all Lansky diamond sharpeners. For fixed blades I use a fine water stone wheel and a leather wheel machine with compound on the leather. I love to see a mirror bright bevel. But a course edge cuts large warm animal parts maybe better. For me the mirror edge works the hide better. For carpet or rope type activites I am guessing a course is better. I finish small knives and 420 blades with 800 or 1000 grit. I take a small crock stick sharpener to the field. I like to work off the wire edge with a rough leather pad I glued to a FLAT piece of walnut and white rouge or some Mothers Mag wheel polish. I have a hairless left hand many days, but also like to watch and "hear" the edge cut thin typing paper in very small slivers in order to feel proud of my work. :thumbup:........... 300$s
 
I don't have any problems sharpening my 110 (440C) or any of my BG42 blades on a standard Sharpmaker with the normal rods. Sometimes with the old 110 I go back for a couple swipes on the course shone after a polish on the ceramic. Not sure why this seems to yield better results, but for that particular blade it really does the trick.

schiesz
 
Thanks for the info guys, I always learn a little more when I ask about sharpening.

Thanks for the input 300. I should have just said sharpening premium steel instead of using 110.

Did yall know they use chickens for shark bait? :rolleyes::p
 
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