Sharpening a Benchmade Mini Skirmish

I

Idaho RC

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Nov 21, 2016
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I have and Edge Pro Apex with Shapton Glass Stones and have gotten proficient enough with it to enjoy sharpening my knives and getting a polished edge on them. I sold my 710 because I didn't want to have to deal with the recurve blade. Recently I have gotten hold of a Benchmade Mini Skirmish that is a user and I would like to put about a 17 degree polished edge on it but I am not sure I can with my standard Edge Pro setup. I am not very good at free hand sharpening so that's out. Is it possible to use my Edge Pro to sharpen the recurve on my Mini Skirmish?

Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
 
I don't own it, but Ben Dale has a video explaining how to sharpen recurve, in which he insists that you need half inch stones.
 
miso2 said:
I don't own it, but Ben Dale has a video explaining how to sharpen recurve, in which he insists that you need half inch stones.
Click to expand...

I'll look for the video but I have heard that. I was hoping there is way around that.
 
Idaho RC said:
I have and Edge Pro Apex with Shapton Glass Stones and have gotten proficient enough with it to enjoy sharpening my knives and getting a polished edge on them. I sold my 710 because I didn't want to have to deal with the recurve blade. Recently I have gotten hold of a Benchmade Mini Skirmish that is a user and I would like to put about a 17 degree polished edge on it but I am not sure I can with my standard Edge Pro setup. I am not very good at free hand sharpening so that's out. Is it possible to use my Edge Pro to sharpen the recurve on my Mini Skirmish?

Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

The recurve on that knife is not that bad... you can use the regular size stone. My suggestion... if the stone has a sharp edge along the long sides, slightly round them off. (Doesn't take much). Then just work the recurve, light pressure, and I like to go both directions (into and out of the recurve). Let the stone "flow" in and out of the recurve... in other words, keep your grip on the knob light so the stone can rotate as it goes in and out of the curve. Main thing you really need to watch is not letting the edge of the stone "dig" into the bevel. (that's why the slight rounding, light pressure, etc. during sharpening).

Go slow, check your progress often until you get used to it.

Easier than it sounds, I promise. ;)
 
cbwx34 said:
The recurve on that knife is not that bad... you can use the regular size stone. My suggestion... if the stone has a sharp edge along the long sides, slightly round them off. (Doesn't take much). Then just work the recurve, light pressure, and I like to go both directions (into and out of the recurve). Let the stone "flow" in and out of the recurve... in other words, keep your grip on the knob light so the stone can rotate as it goes in and out of the curve. Main thing you really need to watch is not letting the edge of the stone "dig" into the bevel. (that's why the slight rounding, light pressure, etc. during sharpening).

Go slow, check your progress often until you get used to it.

Easier than it sounds, I promise. ;)
Click to expand...

I have used the Edge Pro quite a bit and am comfortable using it. When I looked it over what you describe is exactly what I thought. I want to also try the diamond plates I have to get a head start on the profile. As long as I keep the diamond stone moving I think I will be OK. What do you think?

The rest of the glass stones I always relieve the edge after I flatten them. But I can to it a some more to make sure the edges are rolled. Sound like a good plan?

Thanks a bunch for the words of wisdom.
 
I think you just don’t want a sharp edge on the side of the stone,,, is all you need to do.

(I also would practice before trying the diamond stone, but I think you’ll do fine. And you’re right, no straight up and down ‘scrubbing’ in the recurve area).
 
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