Sharpening a brand new knife

vjb.knife

vjb.knife

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Feb 2, 2002
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Do any of you sharpen a brand new knife on a regular basis? Many knives that I get, especially factory knives, may be relatively sharp, but when I examine them under magnification they are rough. Most only are about 400 - 600 grit compared to the sharpening done with my wicked edge sharpener. So usually, it does not take long for me to want to sharpen them, sometimes upon receipt. I don't generally change the angle, but I do like to put a more consistent angle at a much higher polish / grit. I run through the diamond coats and ceramics until i get to the leather strops with polishing pastes to get to about a 2000 grit final pass. This looks like a mirror and cuts much better than the original in all cases. Some of the custom knives I have do not need this treatment, but most of the factory edges are pretty rough.
 
I have yet to buy a knife with an edge I consider sharp. Sharpening well takes time, which is real expensive in manufacturing so fine by me.
 
If I’m sure I’m going to keep it I put my own edge on it, that way I know I can replicate it.
 
I expect to sharpen any knife I get. It doesn't matter whether it is new or used. If I collected knives as an investment, I would not sharpen them. I consider all my knives to be users, or potential users, so I sharpen them.

O.B.
 
I recently bought a case that the grind was so bad I initially thought about sending it back. When I broke out the jewelry loop it was mainly bent ove burrs. It only look about a half hour to sharpen and remove the burning.
 
Old Biker said:
I expect to sharpen any knife I get. It doesn't matter whether it is new or used. If I collected knives as an investment, I would not sharpen them. I consider all my knives to be users, or potential users, so I sharpen them.

O.B.
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This.
 
If the knife is sharp enough for me, then no. This probably isn't a popular opinion here in the maintenance subforum, but I don't care about polished edges or whittling hairs. I will admit that there is a certain satisfaction to putting a good edge on a knife, but I don't look forward to having to do it.

I've also found that the more time and effort I spend sharpening and refining an edge, the more hesitant I am to use it for something that will begin dulling it.
 
I really don't mind a toothy edge....as long as it's done properly, and somewhat consistent. So if I think I can get some utility out of a new factory edge, I'll usually do it.

But that said, I still probably sharpen up to 50% of my knives right out of the box. I don't really NEED to change that 300 grit factory edge to a more refined 1500+ edge. But, I can't stand meandering or lopsided grinds. And if it's only so-so sharp out of the box, I might as well take the opportunity to set my own preferred edge right up front.
 
Does a factory grind meet my particular needs?
Rarely.
I do have hard use knives that require that fat factory edge to baton through a Yugo or whatever nonsense, but my everyday pocket folder requires a thin, fine slicing edge that's not necessarily as durable.
That means 15-20dps depending on the steel variety and rarely do I find any factory grinds at that spec....so it's off to the EdgePro for an hour or so to devalue my new purchase (but that's an entirely different thread derailer...).
 
Zerobladeplay said:
I usually work with the factory edge until it's not slicing at levels I'm happy with. Don't see the point in grinding away good steel if its shaving out the box.
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Ditto, plus finding factory angles informs factory quality vs number of lawyers on the payroll:rolleyes:
but I also see bean counters arguing at the edge.
 
I almost always put a new edge on any knife, new or used, which comes to me. I'm sure there are customs that don't need it but those are out of my price range.

But some production brands consistently come with better factory edges than others, e.g., Bark River and Spyderco, and might need just a minor tune up or evening up of the bevels. And the biggest exception is Moki---the best factory edges I've ever experienced, and if you're not careful unboxing them you may need a band aid!

Andrew
 
dannyp said:
This probably isn't a popular opinion here in the maintenance subforum, but I don't care about polished edges or whittling hairs.
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Me neither.

There is nothing wrong with this, just that I don't have a use or need for that kind of sharpness. All my knives have coarse, toothy edges.

But I don't like removing knife metal unless I have to and try to use the factory edges if I can, as Zerobladeplay said, until the knife needs sharpening.
 
Almost all new knives I've acquired have wanted for at least one or another, or both, of these two things:

1. Better cutting geometry - I'd bet 90% of knives fell way short of my expectations on this.

2. Complete apex and competent deburring. So many factories seem to stop short of a complete apex, OR it gets buffed away in aggressive factory burr removal. OR, some edges are left with huge burrs that fold early in use, thereby rendering the edge dull very quickly.

If or when I fully resharpen a brand new knife, it has little to do with the particular finish of the factory edge, be it coarse, polished or in between. It's just about getting the edge to live up to it's full cutting potential, regardless of the finish. A few knives come close enough, I don't necessarily mess with them right away. But even with those, I'll always get around to tweaking them more to my ideal preference, eventually.
 
AFAustin said:
I almost always put a new edge on any knife, new or used, which comes to me. I'm sure there are customs that don't need it but those are out of my price range.

But some production brands consistently come with better factory edges than others, e.g., Bark River and Spyderco, and might need just a minor tune up or evening up of the bevels. And the biggest exception is Moki---the best factory edges I've ever experienced, and if you're not careful unboxing them you may need a band aid!

Andrew
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The one Moki I do have left me with exactly that impression. And I did, in fact, need a band-aid after getting a little too casual in fiddling with it, on the first day I had it. In closing the blade, I let it go from about 1/3rd open with just enough of my finger in the way, and the little rascal bit me and drew blood. I was impressed. :D
 
AFAustin said:
I almost always put a new edge on any knife, new or used, which comes to me. I'm sure there are customs that don't need it but those are out of my price range.

But some production brands consistently come with better factory edges than others, e.g., Bark River and Spyderco, and might need just a minor tune up or evening up of the bevels. And the biggest exception is Moki---the best factory edges I've ever experienced, and if you're not careful unboxing them you may need a band aid!

Andrew
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I've got to throw Mcusta in the mix as well with edges that met my criteria out of the box.
I've had them roll a bit but that's easily fixed with the thin factory edge geometry.
Excellent slicers.
 
If I put a knife in my pocket straight from the factory, the only thing running through my head is how long until I can put my own edge on it. Usually a factory edge will be asymmetrical and inconsistent.
 
Zerobladeplay said:
I usually work with the factory edge until it's not slicing at levels I'm happy with. Don't see the point in grinding away good steel if its shaving out the box.
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I will usually throw a microbevel on a new knife if Im not happy with the factory edge. Then after some use I will reprofile it to my liking.
 
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