Sharpening a Busse (Grind Angle)

[verisharp]

For the guys who sharpen their busses and kin themselves: What grind angle do you prefer 15, 18,20,22 degrees etc etc... too acute= chips, too obtuse= hardER to baton and hard to do fine detail work such as carving.... what do you say/do?

 

[concreteadaptation]

i have used my ceramic rods on my sharpmaker at 40 on a hollow ground GW a SHSH a SH-E as well as a BAD and it easily brought them to shaving sharp and the edge lasted quite awhile i only touched each of those up the once and still havent sharpened them (the SHSH i sharpened and sent to someone else so im not sure how long the edge held up after chopping).INFI holds an edge like no other knife ive owned, sometimes its sharper after you use it once after sharpening if you could beleive that!! i hope this helped a little and im sure you will have guys who know more than me by shortly to give you a better idea of what angle for what use etc.

luke

 

[Last Visible Canary]

you'll be hard pressed to get infi to chip regardless of how thin you make it. If you make it to thin it will roll over, mash or tear. I tend to do an 18 degree relief bevel with a 24 degree primary bevel (degree's are per side).

Depending on the knife, doing the 18 degree relief bevel may result in a super-high bevel and a ton of time creating it

 

[Bigfattyt]

I am all over the place on my edges.

I convex and sharpen by hand.

The only one that has a set bevel on it is one side of my B11 is at 20, the other is convex. I might actually take that 20 side even further down, like to 10, since the other side has a nice convex.

I would bet that some of my convex edges are 30 per side (at the very edge). I tend to back strop the shoulders a lot. Some times sand paper to the bevel up behind the edge to thin them out. Go to where it is performing how you want. I tend to be within the 20 per side range up to up a bit higher. Infi will go thinner than that with no problems.

 

[resinguy]

I would say that LVC has the right idea. A relief bevel, or secondary grind, at a reasonably shallow angle, with the steeper primary edge for protection.

 

[M67]

I convex and sharpen by hand.

+1 :thumbup:

 

[Flatsman007]

+1 :thumbup:

Same here +1......

 

[Biggerdawg]

Say it ain't so. You mean you actually sharpen a BUSSE, That has always been the excuse I've used to get another one, now I'm confused and depressed because I have to find another excuse to justify buying more.

 

[PeterPHWS]

For the guys who sharpen their busses and kin themselves: What grind angle do you prefer 15, 18,20,22 degrees etc etc... too acute= chips, too obtuse= hardER to baton and hard to do fine detail work such as carving.... what do you say/do?

Primary and secondary bevels definately improve performance :thumbup:

Marking pens or magic markers on the edge help you see under a magnification loop the ratio of your primary bevel to secondary bevel ... 2/3 secondary and 1/3 primary seem to work best for me.

On my sub 5 inch blades where I want razor sharpness I like to use a sharpening system which guarantees the edge angle ... then depending upon the thickness of the stock behind the edge I like to convex the primary bevel into the secondary. On very thin stock it makes no difference IMO from experience ... but most Infi blades benefit from this as they are not usually thin stock.

On my chopping blades I use 20 degree primary and 15 degree secondary ( these are per side figures ) and on my cutting blades I go for 15 degrees and strop the blade to round the shoulder. This gives the same effect as a secondary bevel but instead of doing a fixed angle secondary bevel this gives the edge an immediate slight convex curve.

Once you have used fixed angle systems and then moved to a belt sander to convex the angles into one another a good few times you can start to just do the edges right from the off on the belt sander. You develop a good idea of the angles to use from practise.

There are plenty of tips on what belts to use for belt sanders. Use high grit belts as these remove metal gradually. The sanders are really cheap from the likes of Harbour Freight and save a load of time once you have the hang of things.:thumbup:

 

[CPC]

PI like to use a sharpening system which guarantees the edge angle

Are you able to tell me what system or product you use? PM me if you like. I'd like to know what some of the experts are using.

Chris.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Are you able to tell me what system or product you use? PM me if you like. I'd like to know what some of the experts are using.

Chris.

Well, before I used free hand (belt sander, sand paper over rubber pad, and leather strop) I used to use a lansky system. Not a very elegant system, but I could put a fierce edge on with one. If I had the money back then, I would have had an Edge Pro, The Professional kit #3.

Pretty pricy. But now, I don't need it.


At that price now, I would just upgrade my belt sander for sharpening!.

 

[grey menace]

Say it ain't so. You mean you actually sharpen a BUSSE, That has always been the excuse I've used to get another one, now I'm confused and depressed because I have to find another excuse to justify buying more.

How about this one is to sharp i could cut myself, i'll buy another maybe it will be safer!

 

[CPC]

Thanks Bigfattyt. I'm looking at either the Edge Pro or the Wicked Edge. There's some great info in this thread.

Chris.

 

[Bapple]

I had a Edge Pro professional model and loved it. It would put a very, very nice polished edge on anything. I was also able to control the exact angle I sharpened each blade to. The only downside for me was the amount of time I had to put into sharpening with this system, time consuming IMO.

That was the main reason I invested in a belt sander and started experimenting I can now put a convex on anything I have in less than 10 minutes, or touch up a blade after a trip with a leather belt and bring back the razor sharpness in less than 2 minutes. Really has spoiled me on sharpening. If anything, it sharpens too fast, and I am always looking for any ole knife around the house/kitchen to sharpen. :thumbup:

 

[shane justice]

Maybe I missed it and somebody asked this already...

What are you cutting?

And what are your expectations for edge performance over time?

These are questions I used to ask prospective customers back when I was still making knives.

A guy who lives anywhere near a "mesquite jungle" can REALLY wreck a knife quick.

You know?

Shane