Sharpening a CPK

bubbaskyjacker

bubbaskyjacker

Joined
Feb 24, 2008
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So I have read in a recent thread that Nate does NOT suggest belt sharpening for the Delta 3V

I must admit I have a lot of knives and sharpened almost none. Just buy a new one. Lol. However now I own 3 CPK and I need to sharpen the HDFK now.

What is a good set up ?

I currently have a 3 tri stone from a Arkansas. Maybe 60 - 80$ Retail. Not super sure how good the quality is.
 
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How much sharpening does it actually need? Have you been stropping or honing it?

Maybe someone with more knowledge will comment, but I have not needed to do any major sharpening on my LC in well over a year of regular use. A butcher's steel was plenty to keep putting the edge back to shaving, and just a little polishing up on the Arkansas stone a month or two ago. An my Arkansas stone isn't anything fancy.

That said, if I had to do any major sharpening I wouldn't start with the Arkansas stone. It all depends on what your edge is like to start with.
 
I don't see too good no more, but I think I finally got a descent edge on mine this time...

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bubbaskyjacker said:
I must admit I have a lot of knives and sharpened almost none. Just buy a new one. Lol. However now I own 3 CPK and I need to sharpen the HDFK now.
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D3V resharps pretty easily. If it goes beyond what a strop will bring back, I take it to an orange Norton India stone and then to a hard black Arkansas stone in a Norton 3-stone IM313. Sometimes I stop there as it usually shaves after coming off the Arkansas stone but if you want to go a little further, strop with black and then green compound. I've got a four-sided strop bat with black-green-pink-bare leather, but seldom go past green.
 
I don't recommend using a belt, but it can be done (with the right technique) if you can slow it down to a crawl and preferably wet. Non-powered is a safer bet. For hand sharpening I use a big diamond plate to do most of the work and follow it with a fine stone. A dull knife with minor damage can be restored in 5-10 minutes. We only do powered sharpening here because our needs are different than folks needing to re-sharpen the occasional knife.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I don't recommend using a belt, but it can be done (with the right technique) if you can slow it down to a crawl and preferably wet. Non-powered is a safer bet. For hand sharpening I use a big diamond plate to do most of the work and follow it with a fine stone. A dull knife with minor damage can be restored in 5-10 minutes. We only do powered sharpening here because our needs are different than folks needing to re-sharpen the occasional knife.
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I should have clarified; by “belt” I meant your leather pants belt for the last step not a machine belt!
 
The edge is still in good shape. Just hacked through a bunch of green branches.

From the thread I see I need a strop. That might bring the edge back on it own.

That norton 3 piece set ain’t cheap.

I guess what I need is some guidance on a stone set, and or diamond plate.

Plus I need to practice sharpening on some cheap knives before i try it on a CPK.
 
I can honestly say I spent quite a bit to upgrade all of my sharpning equipment within the past year or so ... including Shapton Glass ... Chosera Pro ... DMT big diamond bench stones ... and others ...

but what I have used most are DMT Diafolds ... they are small ... handy and work great ... can sharpen anything with them ... and then I use a ceramic hone and or strops with various compounds depending on steel.

Now I do use and like the Shapton Glass and Chosera Pros for some steels ... but if I were looking for only one setup ... the DMT Diafolds ... Blue, Red, and Green cover most needs.
 
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JJ_Colt45 said:
but what I have used most are DMT Diafolds ... they are small ... handy and work great ... can sharpen anything with them ... and then I use a ceramic hone and or strops with various compounds depending on steel.

Now I do use and like the Shapton Glass and Chosera Pros for some steels ... but if I were looking for only one setup ... the DMT Diafolds ... Blue, Red, and Green cover most needs.
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Same here.

I kept a DMT Fine Diafold in my work pack, since the 90's. That was replaced a few years back with a Diafold Duo Coarse/Fine. I figured, "Hey, same size, but double sided with 2 different grits".

I chose the Coarse/Fine, instead of the Fine/Extra Fine, because the Fine gets me a working/shaving sharp edge pretty quickly, and the Coarse is a lot quicker for the number of coworkers who've asked me to 'touch up' the edges on their EDC butter knives:rolleyes:. Made quick work on a dull axe too.

The Shaptons only ever get used on the Japanese kitchen knives.

BTW, for those looking at strops, try checking out the Strop Block. Pretty simple/convenient strop option. It's an 8"x2.5" leather section glued to a wood block, and preloaded with Green compound. Easy to keep in a drawer and grab for a quick strop, to keep a sharp blade razor sharp.
 
That strop block sounds like what I'm looking for it's hardly made by Jre Insustries.
Thanks
 
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