Sharpening a Fiddleback???????

BBQ BOY

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Feb 24, 2009
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I hate to say it Andy but you sent me a gorgeous knife that is very dull. It doesn't come close to cutting paper.
I'm trying to sharpen the Bushfinger and can not seem to put a edge on it. I'm very frustrated. I tried stropping and using a Sharpmaker. I haven't tried my EdgePro yet because I hate that thing. J may give it a whirl.
What is the degree of this edge?
I'm leavin tomorrow for the mountains and am hoping to get some answers tonight before I leave.
 
convex or scandi? Because I have a scandi terrasuer that i recently got and am waiting on my EdgePro before I sharpen it.( I must say a little on the dull side.....and growing duller by the day.)
 
Yours is probably convex so an Edge Pro is not the solution - Get out the DMT and your strop -

And have a sharp trip
 
The mouse pad is the best way to sharpen a convex edge, without a power sander.
Is there a burr on the edge? Or Can you see a reflection on the edge?
 
I'm with you BBQ. I have had a hell of a time getting my Hiking Buddy really sharp. Most of my other knives are full height convex or ESEEs that I convexed myself. I use the mousepad/sandpaper and strop method. I use a sharpie line on the blade when sharpening as well. My Bark Rivers and ESEEs get scary sharp this way but no dice on my two with secondary bevels (Fiddleback and my Fletcher). I'm thinking about just grinding the hell out of them with some 200 grit sandpaper but the thought of f*ing up the profile on the Fiddleback sort of makes my stomach hurt. I've watched the Turley (sp?) video on sharpening a secondary bevel with sandpaper but I just can't seem to get it. The knife is fairly sharp but doesn't really shave very well.

edit: I guess that the ESEEs obviously aren't really full height convex but the shoulders of the bevels are totally gone.
 
Is it a convex EDGE or a convex GRIND? Not the same thing.

I'm thinking it's a convex grind with a secondary bevel, since stropping didn't seem to help. Probably has a severe angle to the edge.

If that's case, I'd wrap some coarser grit sandpaper around your sharpmaker rods and go to town. Get the edge profile where you want it and then use the rods to hone the edge.
 
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This is unacceptable. Its happened a lot lately. I will sharpen it for free. Do your best for your trip, I can clean up whatever you do scratchwise. I apologize for this.
 
I hate to say it Andy but you sent me a gorgeous knife that is very dull. It doesn't come close to cutting paper.
I'm trying to sharpen the Bushfinger and can not seem to put a edge on it. I'm very frustrated. I tried stropping and using a Sharpmaker. I haven't tried my EdgePro yet because I hate that thing. J may give it a whirl.
What is the degree of this edge?
I'm leavin tomorrow for the mountains and am hoping to get some answers tonight before I leave.

Where in the mtns you going? If you are going to be close the south end of Asheville give me a call. I will be heading home Fri. In Winston Salem right now. PM me and I will try to help you out with it. I got my Karda scary with some sandpaper and my strop.
I'm sure that this is not the norm as far as a FBF knife goes, but I swear to all that is holy if I get another custom knife with a dull edge I'm done with customs. I just started buying customs this year and only in May at that and have only gotten one out of 6 so far that even comes close to be calling sharp. Hell one of them it literally would not cut open an envelope, took me a couple of hours with 400 grit sandpaper to get it close and I am still working on it. Rant off sorry but this is a subject that I am sore on right now, I think that a custom knife should come so sharp that you are afraid to touch it. That is why we pay the extra money to get a custom.
 
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G'day BBQ Boy

It's been close to 20 years since I've been concerned with the new-in-box edge on any knife. :D

The reason is simple.

I don't know of any manufacturer or custom maker (especially one that is based in the Nth hemisphere) that can provide an edge that suits me and the use I put a knife to :eek:

It might have something to do with the fact that most in the Nth Hemisphere really don't know what a hardwood is (with the exception of those who have access to mesquite and some of the equatorial hardwoods). :p

So, as soon as I get any knife (including a Fallkniven or Bark River), I take the time to customise the edge to suit me.

Whilst I'm sure there will be some who will disagree with this, since I can sharpen a knife (whether it be V ground, scandi, convex or any combination thereof), it really doesn't present a problem for me.

BTW, IMO ditch the mouse mat if your going to hone a convex edge :thumbup:

IMO, it is too soft.

I would recommend going with a leather backing for the wet & dry abrasive :thumbup:

Obviously you need to consider that you have paid exactly $0.00 for this opinion :D




Kind regards
Mick
 
I'm struggling to understand why it's hard to sharpen ?

I have had some knives come with too thick an edge and that can be a pain to try and thin down but Fiddleback knives look like they come with a fine edge which should be easy to sharpen !
Any idea why he might find it a problem Andy ???
 
This is unacceptable. Its happened a lot lately. I will sharpen it for free. Do your best for your trip, I can clean up whatever you do scratchwise. I apologize for this.

How has it happened a lot lately? I have only seen a handful of your knives and they have always been plenty sharp--even the Nessmuk I just finished a sheath for that had the tiniest hint of a secondary bevel shaved paper.
 
I just want to point out that in my case, I'm positive that it's 100% user problem that I just have to work though. I definitely in no way blame this sweet lil' knife. :) I'm gonna try Southern Cross's advice and ditch the mousepad and try using the sandpaper over my harder strop instead. I'll get mine worked out eventually so no worries here. :thumbup:
 
G'day Noahl

How has it happened a lot lately? I have only seen a handful of your knives and they have always been plenty sharp--even the Nessmuk I just finished a sheath for that had the tiniest hint of a secondary bevel shaved paper.
IMO, it is probably due to the increased popularity of Andys knives. :thumbup::thumbup:

IMO, when you are only completing one knife a day, then perfection is easy to achieve (after all, you will have the luxury of the time to devote to making sure the single knife is perfect before shipping :D )

However, a true custom maker has the "comercial pressure / reality" of finishing more than one knife a day, IMO it's just not commercially feasible to spend the time to ensure each knife is perfect :thumbup:

May explain why most reputable makers have an outstanding warranty :thumbup:

As long as the heat treat & handle is good, I'm prepared to do my own sharpening. But then again, I also want Andy's knives to remain within reach ($ wise :D).

Having said the above, I'm more than prepared to acknowledge I've got it all wrong :thumbup:




Kind regards
Mick
 
I'm with you BBQ. I have had a hell of a time getting my Hiking Buddy really sharp. Most of my other knives are full height convex or ESEEs that I convexed myself. I use the mousepad/sandpaper and strop method. I use a sharpie line on the blade when sharpening as well. My Bark Rivers and ESEEs get scary sharp this way but no dice on my two with secondary bevels (Fiddleback and my Fletcher). I'm thinking about just grinding the hell out of them with some 200 grit sandpaper but the thought of f*ing up the profile on the Fiddleback sort of makes my stomach hurt. I've watched the Turley (sp?) video on sharpening a secondary bevel with sandpaper but I just can't seem to get it. The knife is fairly sharp but doesn't really shave very well.

edit: I guess that the ESEEs obviously aren't really full height convex but the shoulders of the bevels are totally gone.

Send them back. I'll sharpen them. I use leather backed sandpaper, a sharpie, and light pressure when re-sharpening a knife. I originally use a belt sander.




G'day BBQ Boy

It's been close to 20 years since I've been concerned with the new-in-box edge on any knife. :D

The reason is simple.

I don't know of any manufacturer or custom maker (especially one that is based in the Nth hemisphere) that can provide an edge that suits me and the use I put a knife to :eek:

It might have something to do with the fact that most in the Nth Hemisphere really don't know what a hardwood is (with the exception of those who have access to mesquite and some of the equatorial hardwoods). :p

So, as soon as I get any knife (including a Fallkniven or Bark River), I take the time to customise the edge to suit me.

Whilst I'm sure there will be some who will disagree with this, since I can sharpen a knife (whether it be V ground, scandi, convex or any combination thereof), it really doesn't present a problem for me.

BTW, IMO ditch the mouse mat if your going to hone a convex edge :thumbup:

IMO, it is too soft.

I would recommend going with a leather backing for the wet & dry abrasive :thumbup:

Obviously you need to consider that you have paid exactly $0.00 for this opinion :D




Kind regards
Mick

I use leather too Mick. Nice post.

I'm struggling to understand why it's hard to sharpen ?

I have had some knives come with too thick an edge and that can be a pain to try and thin down but Fiddleback knives look like they come with a fine edge which should be easy to sharpen !
Any idea why he might find it a problem Andy ???

Its 01, and the edge is thin. I get knives back all the time to re-sharpen. Convex is a new ballgame for most guys, and there is a learning curve. I'm more concerned that it went out dull.

How has it happened a lot lately? I have only seen a handful of your knives and they have always been plenty sharp--even the Nessmuk I just finished a sheath for that had the tiniest hint of a secondary bevel shaved paper.

I've had 6 knives since August get past me and into the hand of customers in less than shaving sharp condition. That's less than 10%, but still has been bothering me to the point of pulling out my hair.
 
Although I don't have my first Fiddleback yet (but I should soon) I'll fourth the reccommendation to ditch the mousepad, and use leather backing for the wet dry sandpaper. It's how I maintain any convex edge.

Brandon
 
I'm struggling to understand why it's hard to sharpen ?

I have had some knives come with too thick an edge and that can be a pain to try and thin down but Fiddleback knives look like they come with a fine edge which should be easy to sharpen !
Any idea why he might find it a problem Andy ???

Did t ever occur that it is me that can not ressurwct a good edge? I don't understand shutters a "struggle"
I don't buy a new high end car to drive it straight home to break out my tool box and start wrenchingNin order for it to perform. I shouldn't have to do that. Instead when I purchase the vehicle it should perform as soon as I drive it off the lot. Then it will be easy to maintain.
I love the knife Andy and I understand things can get past you but if it's becoming a reaccuring issue then check them before they go out.
Your a stand up guy and this little hiccup won't stop me from enjoying your product.
You provide an excellent product and service.
 
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:) :) :)
 
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