Sharpening a machete and what to buy for sharpening in general.

N

Nikokurausu

Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Messages
539
Hello,

I'm pretty new around here and I'd like a bit of help. I searched and came up with some things but there are other questions I'd like to ask to make sure I'm on the right path.

Yesterday I took delivery of two Cold Steel 18" Latin Machetes I ordered from Knife Center. CS describes their machetes as coming with a "utility" edge that can be sharpened further. One of them came ok but the other has some chips and the edge is rolled for about oh, the middle third of the blade.:rolleyes: Kinda like someone already used it hard. Rather than get upset about a $12 machete, I figured I'm going to have to learn how to sharpen and care for my blades anyhow so I'll use this machete as the first victim.

When I get the money, I'm going to pick up a Spyderco Sharpmaker for my folders.(no name, CS Recon 1 Spear & Tanto, and soon to have Ruckus) Will the Sharpmaker work for the machete? Like I said, I'm very new to sharpening so if this is a rather moronic question, please forgive me. If the Sharpmaker is a no go, what should I purchase to sharpen my machete?

As for general, right now I'm looking at getting a Sharpmaker, some Benchstones, and perhaps a strop for my overall sharpening needs. Is there anything else you would suggest?

Thanks,
Nick
 
If the blade needs to be re-profiled like you say, I'd start with a medium or coarse Arkansas stone. Or diamond or whatever. Use that to get it straightened out, and if you want it shaving sharp, then progress to a fine stone or something like a Sharpmaker. If you're going to use the machete for rough work, you may find it's necessary to get it razor-sharp. A really fine edge on a cheap machete won't last long anyway.
 
Don't be afraid to use a file on the edge of a machete. They generally are made from relatively soft steel and sharpen reasonably with just a file. This would be easiest to smooth out big rolls and nicks. You can use subsequent finer stones/abrasives to get the edge razor sharp.

FWIW, a lot of Cold Steel machetes (and lots of brands actually) I've come across are sold with poor edges. They seem to come that way from the factory. Then again, they retail for as little as $5, so I suppose some of the roughness may be acceptable.
 
I messed up my earlier post... it should say "you may NOT find it's necessary to get it razor-sharp." sorry bout that!
 
To shape the edges on machetes start with a large bastard file. How you progress from there depends on what you are cutting. In general the edge will be more durable as it is made sharper not less. If you are cutting thick woods you want a very high polish, on grasses and other vegetation it can benefit from leaving the finish coarse, even the filed edge will work well if clean.

-Cliff
 
I have a CS machete, and i just used a bastard file like Cliff said. After setting the edge, I cleaned it up and finished it with some stones in varying grits.

I find that the handles on CS machetes are too thick...
 
Belt sander is a good option... makes machete sharpening quick and easy. You can do your other knives too.

1x30... usually under $30 at Harbor Freight. Can get sharpening belts and a leather belt for honing at woodworker.com or handamerican.com

cbw
 
I'll second the belt sander. On sale I got mine for $35. That was cheaper than my 320 grit DMT stone. A $20 leather honing belt, and $5 for a course grit and fine grit belt to profile and polish before stropping, and the bastard file starts looking pretty good. But if you think of all the other knives you can sharpen, often 10 ro 12 in about 1/2 hour, from flat and chipped to razor sharp.
 
One of my buddies just got a cheap machete and was told to use oil with the sharpening stone. Was he told wrongly, and if not, what type of oil should you use? (I'm also new to the whole sharpening thing).
 
Many people use oil for sharpening stones, you can also in general use water. It doesn't make a huge difference what type of oil you use, just pick something which is easy to clean, don't smell, go rancid, etc. . Some stones can also be used dry though this makes some of the load heavily.

-Cliff
 
Sharpmaker, waterstones, sandpaper for knives, 10 inch mill bastard file for machetes, Kukris, axes, hatchets, shovels, hoes, mattocks, etc.
 
If you must use oil try the $1.50 special, mineral oil.

I use water and it cuts and cleans up just dandy on oil stones ... :D
 
Machete, get a GOOD quality mill bastard file (some cheapie files are totally worthless) then get either a puck or garden hone. Puck is round available in lots of places from 1$ on up. I've never seen much advantage to the most expensive of them. Garden hones are the same idea not round and usually have a handle. The puck is easier to stick in a pack or pouch. Use dry, water, or spit.

The el cheapo 2 sided grit pucks are vastly under rated. The corase side will rip a new edge fast and the finer side (I hesitate to say fine) will finish well enough for field work. For field work oil is just another thing to carry, get lost, or muck up your pack.
 
Listen to the guys above who recommend the 1 x 30 belt sander for about $30 at Harbor Freight. Once you convex the edge it will stay sharp much longer and can esily be touched up in the field with just a sanding pad and sandpaper in a couple of minutes.

A 8" or 10" mill bastard file (I recommend Nicholson) works well also but leaves a much rougher edge that still cuts very well. Get a Nicholson Handy File (at Home Depot, Lowes, or any good hardware store) which has the steel handle built in and cuts finer on one of the sides. The file is best for when you really bang the edge up by accident like removing dents or chips in the blade. Rough profile with the file and finish up with the sanding pad.

Once you learn to convex using a cheap blade like a machete to learn on go ahead and put convex edges on all your regular knives and live happily ever after. Lee Valley Tools sells all the belts you need for about $20 for a complete set from coarse to fine.
 
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