I've got a Cold Steel bolo machete. After trying to cut brush with it I've noticed it is extremely dull straight from the factory. The edge is really poor. It is said to be made from 1055 steel. Anyone have any good processes for sharpening a really dull machete? Would a belt sander be the way to go?
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Sharpening a machete
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A belt sander is nearly always the way to go. If you don't have one handy, a file will do fine.
Cliff Stamp
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Most machetes come with really less than optimal edges, many times over as thick as necessary. You can grind it off with a file but it will take 10-15 minutes and a fair amount of effort, double that easily if you are not used to filing heavily.
It takes 1-2 minutes on a belt sander with a coarse belt to get the same results and is physically trivial. Use the file if you want the exercise, otherwise rip the metal off on the sander.
Once you have the edge to a proper shape a file and coarse/fine stone will maintain it easily and you rework it on the belt sander once in a while to thin out the profile unless you are really focused with the file and don't thicken the edge when sharpening.
-Cliff
It takes 1-2 minutes on a belt sander with a coarse belt to get the same results and is physically trivial. Use the file if you want the exercise, otherwise rip the metal off on the sander.
Once you have the edge to a proper shape a file and coarse/fine stone will maintain it easily and you rework it on the belt sander once in a while to thin out the profile unless you are really focused with the file and don't thicken the edge when sharpening.
-Cliff
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A belt sander is certainly easier if you have a coarse belt, about 50 is good for roughing down the blade in a hurry. For a finished edge you need at least 120 or finer grit. The finer the finish that you put on the blade the tougher the edge will be. With my setup I would start with 60 grit and work my way up to 400 grit.
When I didn't have a belt sander I used a file. This is a great way to cut yourself. I would use a long mill bastard file and use draw filing. It is best if you clamp the blade to a bench while you do this.
When I didn't have a belt sander I used a file. This is a great way to cut yourself. I would use a long mill bastard file and use draw filing. It is best if you clamp the blade to a bench while you do this.
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You can use a belt sander for the entire sharpening process... no need to switch to something else.
If you don't have one, you can pick up a 1x30 from Harbor Freight. I get belts from Woodworker's supply (cause they're close). Use a coarse grit for reprofiling. For sharpening, I used a 600g followed by a leather belt. You can skip the leather belt if you want, just make sure the burr is removed. Puts an excellent edge on.... and you're under $50.... depending on the belts you get. Make a pass, look, feel it for heat, flip it over and make another pass.
If you don't have one, you can pick up a 1x30 from Harbor Freight. I get belts from Woodworker's supply (cause they're close). Use a coarse grit for reprofiling. For sharpening, I used a 600g followed by a leather belt. You can skip the leather belt if you want, just make sure the burr is removed. Puts an excellent edge on.... and you're under $50.... depending on the belts you get. Make a pass, look, feel it for heat, flip it over and make another pass.
We use machetes almost everyday but we are usually off deep in the woods. Files work ok but with all we carry they add to the weight fast. if the machete is really being used and your not at home you might consider using a drag sharpener, not the best on the blade but gets it good and sharp quick to get the work done. We usually sharpen twice a day sometimes on dense cutting and we also burn through machetes so we buy cheap and sharpen fast.
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/view_catalog_page.asp?id=4088
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/view_catalog_page.asp?id=4088
Cliff Stamp
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Shiv said:
You only need a small section, just crack off 1-2" and stick it on a piece of flat wood. You can even stick a small diamond plate on the other side to refine the edge as necessary for wood work.
They wear out metal wise, or just break/warp?
-Cliff
Thanks for all the info and tips! I got out a file since I don't currently have a belt sander and that really helped. The blade actually had some metal that was rolled over on the edge creating a burr, it was so dull.
Shiv: That sharpener from accusharp with the handle and tungsten carbide looks like it would be pretty handy. I see Lansky makes one pretty similar to that too that I think would work.
Shiv: That sharpener from accusharp with the handle and tungsten carbide looks like it would be pretty handy. I see Lansky makes one pretty similar to that too that I think would work.
